What causes elevated engine idle when cold or initial startup? Asking another way, what would cause it not to have the elevated idle on start up?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
View 1 RepliesWhen I start my truck up initially and it's somewhat cold, like even if it hasn't run for just a few hours, it seems to gargle when I get on it. I'm not slamming it while it's cold but even just trying to accelerate. Code is egr flow insufficient, the truck isn't egr deleted, I've had it for 150,000 it's got 211 now. I just clean out the egr every 15-20k and it's been great until now. Once it warms up it sounds and runs perfect.
View 2 RepliesMy 06 6.0 is blowing a fair amount of blueish, whitish smoke only on initial startup, then continues to blow smoke slightly for around 10 min until it's warmed up. It seems to be getting a little worse as time goes on, only on startup though. truck has no other issues otherwise, has an egr delete, and some old edge tuner. I don't think it's head gaskets, no other symptoms.
View 6 RepliesDoes the 2002 7.3 have an automatic high idle in cold weather?When you start it after it runs for a few moments it goes into high idle until you hit the accelerator. I had a 96 powerstroke before this one,it didn't do this. Just wondering?
View 4 RepliesI have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
View 14 RepliesI keep getting my SES light coming on in the morning when my engine is cold. I'm getting code p0603 and p1316. I was told the first one is just from using my tuner. The second code is the injector driver module, just trying to figure out what is causing it to throw the SES light only when cold.
View 6 Replies2003 F350 7.3L 164k miles. Got towed in with hard to start cold complaint.
Hooked it up to the Snap On Verus Pro scan tool and we get up to 3000 psi on the ICP cranking, IPR value seems within spec, we have rpms over 100 on tool, pulse width within spec, computer voltage above 10v while cranking, verified output of glow plug module (California) and glow plugs get voltage for approx 50 seconds @ 80 degrees farenheit, glow plugs all read 0 ohms resistance.
injectors do NOT sound the same during buzz test.
Vehicle takes EXCESSIVE cranking cold to eventually get it started. LOTS of cranking. Just had to replace starter and a battery because driver burned em out. It feels like the vehicle shakes when it gets running. Black smoke when revving cold. Sometimes white smoke while cranking.
Once the engine has been warmed up, it starts perfectly every time.
I have spent two days in the engine bay looking for chaffed wires and doing diag and my current diagnosis is bad injectors. I feel there COULD also be high pressure oil leak, or a mechanical issue such as low compression. No compression guage yet for this truck. We have the ICP and IPR fittings to do a shop air test. Recently did a 6.0L and went thru everything and eventually diagnosed it as bad HPOP. LOW ICP pressure.
I noticed two of the cylinders were at maybe 8% Perdel on the data. Seems too high. Also, it "passed" the KOER self test and "passed" the injector buzz test with no codes after, but the audible sound of injectors didn't "seem" right to me, but I am new to these engines.
The engine in my truck sometimes cuts out seems to be at idle. Takes a lot of cranking together going. Might be related but the electric fuel pump seems to run every time I turn the key on and if i sit with key off and the engine not going. I hear the pump come on again. No external leaks can be seen.
View 3 RepliesOn my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
View 2 RepliesTruck has been driving great for a long time and this afternoon after driving fine to work just died 3-4 times while trying to accelerate from idle. Engine restarts easily but the power is soft off idle, the injectors sound noisier and then quiet down and will accelerate decently once rolling but something is off I can tell.
Fuel pressure is read post filter and is good. Truck is well maintained with all the basics replaced in the last couple years. Could this be CPS going out even if it is only a couple years old? IPR is new in the last year, ICP sensor isn't leaking. Most recent change was a full tank of fuel yesterday afternoon and on a whim performing a boost leak check which was all good.
I just bought a 03 7.3 Ex w rebuilt motor done really nice .. it has a Terminator HPOP .. and pressure spikes to 80/85 on cold startups and spikes until engine warms up .. engine only has couple thousand miles on it .. is that normal ??
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 explorer 4.6 at cold start-up it wants to stall and it idles very bad just for maybe 5-6 seconds and then the idle picks up and it's fine. This only happens on cold start-ups, if I drive it and restart it's fine.
This started when I replaced the two front (up-stream) O2 sensors, I didn't need to change them just have 150,000+ mile and was trying to do something to get better mpg.
Do We should disconnect and reconnect the battery after replacing the O2 sensors on an 03? Reset the computer?
I have long been having troubles with white smoke at startup, even when its 90 degrees out. Long story short I've got new glowplugs, GPR, UVCHs, valve cover gaskets, injectors, turbo, valve seals, valve springs, and HPOP all within the last year. Most of those parts were needed, some maybe not so much. After installing injectors things started getting worse, whether they're related or not I'm not sure yet. I pulled passenger side valve cover off again in an attempt to figure something out and heard this coming out of the intake spider.
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The strange thing is it goes away when it warms up. I should also note the reason I started with the passenger side is because I did a compression test and this side had the lowest readings, with #5 being 270 psi. I disconnected each injector one at a time on the passenger side to see if it made a difference while running but didn't really notice a difference. Am I looking at a motor rebuild, or at the very least a head removal?
Today I decided to do some maintenance on the truck as it needed an oil change and some other unrelated misc stuff.
1. I seafoamed the engine thoroughly. I bought two cans of this stuff, half of a can went into the fuel, another half can in through the brake booster vacuum hose, and I dumped a full can of into the oil. Took it for a 30 minute drive, let the ol' gal smoke as it usually does on a seafoam, and then changed the oil. No noises, I noticed immediately improvement in acceleration.
2. Upon intial startup after the oil change, I thought the motor was coming apart. It was only for about two seconds, (i was counting to make sure) if it didn't have oil pressure and no noise by 3, I was shutting it off. It hasn't done it since.
Is it possible I just knocked some crap loose in the heads causing the oil drain a lot faster into the pan than I expected? I'll try it again in a few hours after everything has cooled off and oil has drained back into the pan, but I wanna make sure I didn't damage anything. Still drives good, no problems, no noises since.
The last oil change I did, I didn't do a Seafoam, but I figured with winter coming it's a good idea to get her running in top form. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20, with a Motorcraft oil filter for those wondering.
Truck has 133K on the clock, and it's had the slight cam phaser tick since I've purchased it, no other problems. I bought it almost a year ago.
So my truck a stock 2000 7.3 started smoking when I would start it up in the morning... figured it was a glow plug issue. Checked the relay it was good, checked the glow plugs found 2 were bad replaced them.
Thought I was done, well I started it up and took it for a drive. still smoked... thought no big deal I know some oil leaked into the cylinders doing the glow plugs.
Then it started rattling like a lift went out, no more smoke though because the truck was warm... shut it off at my buddies. Limped it "it actually still drives ok" 5 miles home.
From my research it sounds like an injector. I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same.
My brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
View 6 RepliesTruck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
View 4 RepliesI have a '94 Chevy Suburban with a driver's side power window problem. The window will work for 5-10 seconds upon initial startup but once I stop and try to restart, the window won't do anything. If I pull up on the window while pressing the window switch it will start working again whereas I can let go of the window and keep the button depressed until I reach the desired level I want the window to be. At times I get nothing up or down by pressing the switch leading me to believe it's the motor. It seems to have the most trouble going up rather than down. I am not sure what the problem is, i.e. regulator, motor, electrical relay.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Camry with only 56,000 miles on it and I have noticed that the engine has been very sluggish on start-up first thing in the morning. This happens only when the weather gets cooler and is worst in winter. Warm weather, no problem. After I back out the driveway, I have to step on the accelerator 2-3 times before the car will go forward. The engine sounds like it's straining. After initial start-up, no problem. Now, lately I have begun seeing blue smoke coming from the exhaust . . . again only on initial start-up in the morning.
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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