Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Electrical Power Fluctuations EGT Gauge Failure
Jun 26, 2016
I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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Today I just installed a brand new IDM and after running the Injector Buzz Test test, I received codes: P1298 Injector Drive Module Failure, P1293 Injector High Side Open - Bank 1, and P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2. How a new IDM could throw these codes?
When running the KOEO test I received codes P0605 Injector Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error, P1298, P1293, & P1294.
My engine is still missing but the engine is running a heck of a lot better after replacing the IDM and injector 8 has a rotational velocity of about 3%
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I need a part number for the temp sensor for my truck. The dummies at advance have sold me the wrong one 2 times now. I used a jumper wire on the plug to make sure I didn't have a broke wire somewhere. The gauge went up when I jumped it. Went and got a new one and it still don't work
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My Volt gauge on the dash has started reading around 10V with the key on waiting on the GP's. Batteries read +/- 12.6V with a DVM in a static state, no key.
But, quickly as best as I could see the reading on the DS battery drop to around 10V with the key on, GP's cycling. Cranking drops down around 8Vish.
After starting the reading on the DS battery is back up to 10V. This lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to a few min. Then it jumps up to the expected 14.6V reading.
I cleaned up the battery terminals and clamps while doing my turbo,and all the connections are tight.
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Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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I have a 2002 F-250 with a 7.3.
I have been having a no crank, no start issue off and on for a while. batteries are new, cables are new, connections are clean, and starter has been rebuilt and checked. I bought a "starter relay" which i thought was the top solenoid in this picture. I also replaced the lower solenoid in the picture. The bottom solenoid was replaced with what im sure is the correct replacement. The upper I think is wrong. It started but then shut down and will not restart. The upper solenoid also was very hot after it shut down.
Long story short what is the upper solenoid for? Im assuming its not the starter solenoid. If so where is the Starter solenoid on a 2002 7.3?
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What gauge wires the battery cables are on these trucks? Son in law has some really corroded cables on the Excursion. I was going to pick up some welding cable and replace them, but a quick glance looks like different sizes for different cables.
Looking for a list of gauge and length for each one to save me a little time?
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I need to install an oil pressure sensor sending unit. I've already occupied the 1/8"NPT test port on the rear of the oil cooler, where else might I be able to tap into oil pressure? (LPOP)
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Just bought this 1999 7.3 drove it a couple days now and got to walmart today. shut it off to go inside and came back out. turned on key waited for wait to start to go off. cranked the motor over but it didnt fire. i tried it again and nothing. oil is full, oil pressure is good while cranking. no rpm reading on gauge while cranking. no check engine light. batteries are literally brand new two weeks ago. Cam sensor?
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Two years ago I acquired a very very nice 2001 F350 DRW crew cab. The person I purchased it from put a Remanufactured 7.3 in it and set the truck up to pull wedge trailers. He put 25K miles on it and put it on Craig's list where I found it. It just turned over 300,000 miles.
One of the changes he made was to install a 70 gallon fuel tank in the frame rails below the bed. He told me that when the gauge reads EMPTY there is still 20 gallons in the tank. I remember him telling me that this anomaly is due to using the stock Ford pickup in the larger tank.
I have never filled the tank because so far the truck is used locally. I usually put 10 to 20 gallons in and when it gets to E I do the same fueling.
Then one day I turned the key on and the needle went up and beyond the full indication.
I can get under it and maybe the tank has some name or model number on it.
The truck runs fine, but the gauge concerns me. Eventually the truck will be making round trips from Chicago to our retirement home in Santa Fe, NM. It would be nice to have a working fuel gauge!
I have spoken to the person I purchased the truck from. He installed the tank as part of a complete upgrade that included a re-manufactured 7.3. The fuel tank is a 67 gallon Titan mounted between the frame rails. He believes that the original Ford sending unit was installed. That means it has 300,000 miles on it. I had the truck on a lift yesterday and it is a very tight fit. The garage said the best way to do the repair is to remove the bed. Six bolts, disconnect the tail lights and the 7 pin trailer connector and it is off.
So, my questions now are... Should I stay with a new Ford sending unit or are there better ones to install? Are there any other updates to the fuel delivery system that should or could be done at the time?
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Towed 3 axle trailer loaded with a 73 VW bug, two implement bars, plows and a small boat. I would guess total weight at 7,000 max. The ambient temp 97 degrees and very humid. I have a 2000 dually.
The following are from the ScangaugeII
TFT trans temp 175 max
EOT end oil temp 205 max
SLP trans slip 0.20 max and 0.0 in high gear
From glow shift
Water temp 196
The one I am worried about is the trans slip, from a stop taking off always went high 0.15 to 0.20 and then drop quickly. Once the TC locked 0.0 down the road. Also, when I reverse with no load on dirt I have seen 0.20 on the trans slip. I have Forscan but have not logged any temps yet....
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Well besides the pyro breaking friday BEFORE live tuning,and the exhaust leak I gained on the way to Texas(not inpart of the pyro not working). Now the fuel gauge is stuck on full. It looks good,200+ miles and still on full. Could it be the gauge,or possibly just the sending unit? Maybe a fuse?
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I bought an Autometer 4763 gauge that didn't come with the correct fittings to plumb the sender into one of the extra ports on the back of the bowl. I went to the Ace hardware store right across the street and they didn't have anything (not surprised) and then Napa. They couldn't find a fitting to match either. He found that the plug threads are 7/16 20 tpi and the sender is 1/8" NPT. He suggested getting a 7/16 20tpi bolt, drilling it rifle-style, and then tapping it for a 1/8" NPT. The alternative, and what I ended up doing, was to use brass fittings to tee it off one of the supply lines to the heads. I ended up going that route but wanted to know if I should have looked harder for the right fitting.
Here's a pic of what I have now. I've test fit it, and it seems to work although I will need to insulate the hard lines because they rub due to the offset.
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I've had an ongoing issue with my fuel gauge reading incorrectly, and now I'm trying to fix it! Basically, it will change all over the place while I'm driving (not erratically, but definitely moves occasionally). I recently fixed my overhead display, but the "miles to empty" display doesn't seem to be very consistent. It will read 450 miles to empty, and then the next time I look at it, it will have dropped 100 miles or something (after minimal driving).
So I'm wondering where I need to begin looking to fix this problem. I've replaced the dash cluster using Circuit Board Medics, so I'm fairly confident that's not the issue. I've read that it can be the fuel pump or the fuel tank sender, but how to check if these are actually the problem or how much time it will take. Luckily, I've never run out of fuel and been stranded, but I need to fix this or it's only a matter of time!
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Basically my coolant temperature gauge either reads as the hottest it can be, or the coldest. It doesn't jump around a whole bunch, but it's always all the way to one end or the other. From what I've read there seems to be a lot of different temperature sensors, so I get a little confused with all of the abbreviations, but I'm fairly certain I checked the correct one, next to the thermostat housing.
Using a multimeter I checked the resistance of the sensor, and it was around 600 ohms about 30 minutes after it had been driven. I'm not sure if this is where it should be or not, but it was rising as the truck cooled off.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I just tested the sensor incorrectly or if there could be another issue. A friend of mine suggested that the thermostat may have gotten stuck or something, but it doesn't seem like the gauge would switch at all if that were the case. What I should check to try and fix this.
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Looking for pics of where/how they mounted their fuel pressure gauge? I'm getting ready to install one.
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I just replaced my Wiper motor last week and noticed something strange. For the last year or so when I turn on the key to start the truck, once in a while my radio, gauges, and other electricals such as windows wouldn't work for a bit, anywhere from a couple seconds to maybe as much as a couple minutes. Since my wiper motor was on the fritz, I pulled the fuse and the radio,gauges,ect. wouldn't work until the WTS light went out, then everything worked just fine, even after I started the truck and the glow plugs come back on.Since I replaced the motor everything works as soon as i turn the key. Coincidence? Or could one of the internal relays on the motor being stuck cause that?
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Passenger tail light bulb went out who knows when, but was alerted about it today. Every other time this has happened, in multiple vehicles, the turn signal blinks rapidly to let you know the bulb is out. Mine blinked normally.
In the past year I've had to change my multi function switch and more recently the flasher relay for the blinkers. Just a standard relay from the parts store, not the heavy duty one or anything. It did say it was LED compatible, so I wonder if that is why it didn't pick it up? Why I didn't get the rapid blinking?
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I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
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1/4 tank just kept cranking. Added some diesel and started right up thought it was bad fuel gauge. Went about a mile and shut down just off. coasted went got more diesel but this time cranked but no start. anti theft light was flashing too.
Towed home started right up after tow... Starting now... Tomorrow was going to change the fuel filter....
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