Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Electric Fuel Pump Conversion
Jun 24, 2016
I was wondering if it is possible, due to budget, to perform the electric fuel pump conversion in steps. By that I mean could I remove the mechanical pump and install the electric pump on the frame, but retain the stock filter housing and regulator? I would use high pressure hose and run from the stock pump supply line on top of the engine to the fuel bowl inlet and then use high pressure to run to a three way fitting, and a bit more hose to join the fitting to the stock lines running to the head. later as budget allow I will replace the filter assembly and regulator and then the lines to the heads.
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So I'm not sure if I should post this here or in the 1994.5-97 section. The reason being I have a 2000 f250 with a 97 7.3. It currently has a mechanical fuel pump but they keep crapping out. We dont have the money to do a $600 diy conversion so were looking for a cheap solution.
So the 2000 has all the fuel lines and plugs to put a electric fuel pump in, but if I just threw a electric pump on then it would feed to the mechanical fuel pump which I'm guessing is a no no? Or possible?
If I put the electric fuel pump would I just have to remove the mechanical fuel pump and run lines from the pump to the bowl?
If the fuel bowl can't hold the pressure of an electric fuel pump then would I be able to swap the fuel bowl only and be good to go or is that impossible?
Let me know what you think were trying to do this as cheaply as possible.
2000 f250 auto 4x4, 97' 7.3 motor.
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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The relay for the fuel pump keeps going bad. Is this a sign my fuel pump is going ? I just replaced my 2nd relay ( lasted about 1 week ) 1st lasted 16 years. Or is there another issue to look at ?
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I'm driving a 2007 Prius [Gen II?] with 92k miles on her. I was told my belt has cracks and I should change it, and I've read about converting it to an electric pump. I've read the Prius C uses the same engine, and it has an electric pump. I THOUGHT I read about people putting them in the older models...
What do I need to know? Is there a controller board I need? How does it work? [Life compared to the belt driven model]Side effects? [Accel? Fuel economy? Anything else?]
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2003 F-350 - 7.3. With the key in the on position there is zero voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is good. I traced the red with black tracer wire from the pump up through the firewall and to the safety inertia switch. The switch has continuity so it's OK. Then from the safety switch I traced the green with yellow tracer wire to a fuse block plug connector. Then I checked continuity from that connector out to the #40 fuel pump fuse and it's open.
So I then i checked from the fuel pump fuse to all the back connections on the back of the fuse block and there was no continuity to any of them. So I removed the back cover off the fuse block to expose any issues. I found two board mounted relays. Now, from the fuse I get continuity to one of the relay connections. So did Ford hide the fuel pump relay and make it non replaceable? Also if this is the pump relay then what circuit energizes it? I need to make sure before I replace the fuse block.
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I have a 2003 F250 and dont have power at fuel pump, or fuse #30. I put power directly to fuel pump and it worked and truck fired right up.
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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So the other day my 20amp maxi fuse for my fuel pump decided to blow, put a new one in & everything has been going good since. Is it just a fluke or is this an indication my pump is going out? I inspected wires off the pump & connections for corrosion & that's good, fuel filter is also new about 2 months ago & I always run #1 diesel with a little additive in the winter.
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I was driving my truck then all sudden truck started losing power then slowly died. I restarted it, it was a lil shacky then died again. Iunscrewed the fuel filter and looked in the housing and there was lil fuel in bowl i turned the key to on position and bowl did not fill with fuel looked as if it were shooting some bubbles up(air) could it be outta of fuel???
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Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
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Went to start my truck (2003, 7.3 F250) one evening and I found the headlights on. No keys in the ignition and the truck hadn't been driven for 2 days. There was a strong smell of plastic and or electrical components burning in the cab. The truck started without a problem. I shut it off and the lights remained on. Cycling the MFS and light switch would not turn the lights off. I had to disconnect the batteries and leave it till time allowed for trouble shooting.
I've had it in my shop for three months now and this is what I've found so far.
-Source of the burn smell is coming from the fuse panel. More specific it's coming from a bulkhead that plugs into the panel. One pin connected to a White wire with 2 purple traces. I've traced this wire to one of 2 small relay packs in the engine compartment next to the driver side fender. I've replaced the relay this white/purple wire connects to as a precaution. This did not remedy my trouble.
-The local ford dealer told me this relay was for the A/C clutch. I located a 10amp fuse in position 10 and removed it. The headlights finally turned off.
-I started the truck and the A/C compressor clutch still engaged and ran. Smoke began to pour from the fuse panel once again. I killed the truck and head lights remained off. All done with the fuse in position 10 removed.
Here's where it gets weird!
-With the key/engine off and I turn the headlight switch on and MFS to low beam the fuel pump is running. Change the MFS to high beams and the fuel pump turns off.
I've looked over the wiring harness and there are no noticeable problems indicating multiple wires being shorted. How are all these issues related?
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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I am installing a fuel pressure gauge into my 02 7.3 I went to the thread the sensor into the plug hole on the fuel filter housing and it wasn't threaded, turns out the sensor thread is slightly smaller and a different thread ... The directions say to install it into the filter housing or the lift pump ... So I'm assuming I have to go the lift pump direction of installing it but where the lift pump is or how to install the sensor into it while not throwing a code or causin problems ... A step by step and even pictures.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I just got a 02 f250 lariat 4x4. 7.3. the dimmer on the dash will not work. The light switch was falling apart any way so I replaced it with motor raft switch. Didn't fix it I checked the fuses for the dash and lights. Can't find anything. It does have an aftermarket CD player and those light work with switch. Also it has the mirrors with turn signals and run lights. Neither works power mirrors work fine but no lights. On either side.
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I have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??
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Just tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
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So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
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So my 7.3 started sputtering and lost power, died on the side of the road. I wasn't far from home put about 8 gallon of diesel in the tank with a couple of fuel jugs and it fired right up.
Gauge was reading 1/8 of a tank and low fuel light did not come on. (low fuel light comes on when you start) Gauge came up to about 1/2 after putting fuel in.
What happened? Gauge was always reliable and low fuel light always did work. Only work done to fuel system was had new tank straps put on a couple of months ago.
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So, I'm replacing the Steering Box today and read an article that said you should replace the pump at the same time. what do you all think?? I have clear access to it now and they are not all that expensive?? Or are the ford one's bullet proof and leave it alone???
I don't have any leaks and it feels ok I guess..just pushing close to 200K on it.
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