I've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
View 14 RepliesI have owned a 2001 7.3l f250 for almost 2 years now and the fuel mileage stinks!!! It is a CC short box with an auto transmission and 33" tires. I have a garbage edge chip, AFE intake and a 4"exhaust. I always fill up with a 1/4 tank left, and it will usually take 75-80L. The problem is I drive like a granny and I can only get 3-340km mixed driving or 250km in the city. A friend has the identical truck with a 6spd manual and claims he can get 6-700 km.
View 14 RepliesRe packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
View 13 RepliesTook my 2007 Prius into the local Valvoline where they said they could drain and refill the transaxle fluid. The guy undid the bolt a bit and said he got fluid mixed with water, no odor. He closed it back up and refused to further service it due to liability. I think he opened the drain for the inverter coolant, not the transaxle fluid drain plug. When I called them back, the guy said he used a standard wrench to remove the bolt. NOT a 10mm hex key.
I drove the car home about 3 miles, but now I'm concerned about possible damage to the engine, how much fluid he let out, but the inverter coolant tank appears full.
I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 crew cab, I am getting trans fluid in radiator. i have had radiator replaced. it was good for about 3 months.
View 6 Replies1999 Honda CRV. Took it in for an oil change last month, then next day took a long road trip. After the first half of the trip, I opened the hood and saw colored fluid sprayed all over the front of the engine. It seemed to be coming from the top of the radiator. I assumed the common failure mode of these radiators, ie that the joint between the plastic top piece and the aluminum radiator body was beginning to fail. The overflow tank was empty, but the radiator was still full.
But before I drove the return trip home, I replaced the radiator cap with a new one just in case. When I got home, I checked the engine compartment again. No more coolant spray. So I thought the new radiator cap had solved the problem.
So I added fluid to the overflow reservoir, up to the "minimum" line. A few days later after some local driving, checked again. Again, coolant sprayed around, seemed to be coming from around the cap, overflow reservoir empty, but radiator still full.
Now I just leave the reservoir empty, instead of filled to the "minimum" line. The radiator is not leaking, because I've checked the level several times since and coolant is always near the top of the neck. The only problem is when I add fluid to the "minimum" line in the reservoir, which results in coolant being sprayed out (apparently through the radiator cap, both the old cap and the new one). Now I suspect the oil change mechanic also checked my fluid levels and added coolant to the overflow reservoir, which resulted in the original "spray" episode during my highway trip.
So the question is, why is this happening all of a sudden? Never did this before. Now I just leave the reservoir empty and check radiator level occasionally. But I would like to know why any fluid added to the reservoir when cold causes the radiator cap (apparently) to blow out the excess coolant (it is NOT leaking from the overflow reservoir).
2002 F250 5.4 Crew with limited-slip diff.
I put in about a quart of MERCON-compatible this weekend when the level was low. Found out that last tranny flush used MERCON V.
Now I have at least a quart of the MERCON-compatible in with the MERCON V fluid.
Should I not worry and just use MERCON V from now on, or will the two fluids have problems in my tranny?
I have a 99.5 with 400,000. on the engine. It has been a great truck but it is time for the some TLC. I have a little leak on the radiator and the water pump and would like to replace it. I am just looking for stock.
I have a 13 yr old that grew up sitting on my lap as we drove the dirt roads around the house and on the ranch. He has been driving this truck by himself (on the ranch) as soon as he was able to reach the pedals, around 8 or 9. His happiest day will be when he gets his drivers license and can drive the truck to school. So I have a lot of work ahead of me on this truck.
I was spraying undercoating yesterday and noticed a trans leak, it looks like its coming from the top of the trans. Not a lot of fluid just enough to coat the trans on top. I tried using an inspection mirror but i still cant see the leak.
View 4 RepliesI broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
View 7 RepliesI had to replace injector cups due to diesel in the coolant. Then I had to replace the degas bottle because it was swollen and looked like the michelen man. Then I had to replace the radiator cap (again) because I suspect that the diesel in the coolant had dissolved the seal in the radiator cap and it wouldn't hold pressure. Now I've got a bunch of new parts in there.
I parked yesterday, popped the hood -- and heard the radiator cap slowly blowing off pressure. It was the type of sound that you hear when a tire has a slow leak. I tightened the cap and the sound didn't stop. I REALLLY tightened the cap to the point where I felt as if any more tightening would cause the threads on the degas bottle to strip, and the noise lessened.
Unless I'm mistaken, a radiator cap is supposed to hold pressure to 16psi and then release all at one time, not slowly bleed off pressure with a hissing noise.
I'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
View 14 RepliesHave to get rpm's over 2k before trans will engage, then in between shifts I either have to let off throttle or let engine rev over 2k to get trans to shift...
View 3 RepliesI'm getting a sound every now and then of what sounds like i'm running over rumble strips on the side of the highway. I'm guessing it's the trans grinding. Any thoughts?
View 8 RepliesI notice my trans temp gets really hot fast. For instance just moving my trailer from front of my house to side yard makes temp go to 250. Without any load and driving a couple miles it does the same thing. It's been doing it since I installed the trans temp gauge just trying to figure out what's up.
View 14 RepliesI bought this truck with 200000 miles and its been flawless, its now 900 short of 600000.. I use it to haul everyday.. nothing heavy mostly a car or truck and every once in a while a skid steer. I got 560000 out of my trans, i take it easy. lol
at 350k I installed a Jw valve body drilled pump, tripple disc converter and solenoid pack.. at 560k it went, i pulled it and brought to a guy i trust as much as you guys trust BDS.. Ive had what Ive called a vibration since day one, could be a shudder, could be a shimmy.. what ever.. I brought it back and he says nothing would do that from a trans, so I went through drive shaft, new t case ripped apart rear end and its still there and I have just been dealing with it.. about 2 months ago it started acting up in first. when I pull down to drive I get the normal bump and start to go, it feel like the truck slows, then another bump and it climbs normally with the shudder.
took it back and he said maybe a stuck valve in small VB, so I pulled it and went down there and it was fine, I reinstalled and still does same thing. I then put a pressure gauge on it and it swings as it should sits around 70 psi and will climb, only in first it will climb and fall back to 70 like a switch was flipped, and the rest of the gears bleed off slowly or normally.. He then said it could be the big valve body, so I swapped that one out with another and no real change, maybe its a bit more noticeable.
I am at a loss. Could this be loose feed bolts? Could the shudder that I can feel at most speeds be the 1 gear slipping a tiny bit all the time? I am told that first gear is always on.. this truck has been a dream until this trans issue..
I've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
View 8 RepliesSo my transmission drove perfectly fine I just wanted to put an upgraded torque converter in especially after driving a customers' truck with a low stall converter. I know their not like for racing or anything but it's a work Truck with some mods to the motor nothing crazy. So I went ahead and bought a low stall triple disk converter and I drove around the block fine and went to go on the freeway and got into fourth but lost it as I hit 75 (was not flooring by any means and had it in the stock tune) now it will not go past second gear. Once it did this the o/d off light started to flash and I decided to do a stall test.went to 1800 in a Second. Suppose to stall around 1200-1300.
2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke dp chip stage 1 camshaft and 180/100 injectors coming at some point but stock for now
Well stock trans went two weeks ago so warranty company had another stock one put it (4r100). Finally got the truck today and I noticed my overdrive was flashing. I have no issues though shifts fine speedo works Rpms are normal I checked fuse 19 under the dash that's fine so I'm lost
If I turn the key on I can use the button like normal but once I drive it just flashes. It works but flashes .
So just got a new pcm installed since i fried the last one anyway. I had a new trans installed almost two weeks ago factory 4r100 now i have a p0720 code. Id take it back to that dealer.
View 8 Replies1999 7.3/4r100 4wd with the rattling torque converter.
I bought this truck 10-11 years ago to use as a tow rig for my landscaping company. It has been a great problem free truck, I have done brakes a few times, a water pump, ball joints but no issues with motor/drivetrain.
I don't know the history of the trans before I purchased. Ford didn't have history of it being replaced and even now it still has all the labeling on the case. I would have thought it would have been washed off in a rebuild. Again I don't know. When I bought the truck it shifted nice and crisp, having owned trucks before it made me think it had been rebuilt but this was my first and only 4r100. Other trucks are ZF6 manuals.
Anyway 10 years and 100,000 miles later it still shifts very crisp and fluid, has been changed a couple times, is nice and cherry red. I added a 6.0 cooler, temp gauge and filter. Never see the temp rise and haven't seen much in the filter.
About 25,000 miles ago the TC started to rattle, a known 99 problem. I figured surely the trans would go and I would do a rebuilt from Ford. It keeps going though so being a work truck I have kept running it.
A couple weeks ago the starter just spun and wouldn't engage. I pulled the inspection cover and noticed some missing teeth on flex plate. Got it to start my turning crank bolt a bit to good teeth and the starter caught. Now we are carrying a breaker bar and socket. It has happened a few more times so I need to replace flex plate.
Question is, since I need to pull trans to replace flexplate, should I replace TC (I would like to get rid of the noise)? Some people have said I will be replacing trans in a couple months if I mess with it. They say just spend $3000 on a rebuilt now with a converter. Not trying to be cheap but hate to just dump this trans that is still working great and has served me well.
I have replaced many transmission and done clutches in many trucks so I am familiar with the steps of removal and installation, just stuck on what I should do.