Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: E450 Truck Does Not Start

I bought this 16' box truck today. 7.3L, 213k, 2003. It doesn't start and the owner gave a really good bottom dollar deal for all these reasons. Showing up armed with Torque Pro and my bluetooth adapter, I proceeded to plug it in and check for rpms, HPOP, Battery voltage, etc. No power to port

Find fuse diagram the owner located and fuse 23 is the OBD port. No fuse in place. He found us a fuse, I plugged it in, viola! Power to the port, TP is in action, ready to troubleshoot.

"Charged" battery, start cranking...no start. No Torque Pro (!) Apparently, the OBD port is cut-off while cranking .... Is there some other fuse or connection that will keep it connected during cranking so I can check for RPMs (no dash gauge for it)?

As soon as I left off the starter, the HPOP on TP showed 1212 then 850, then continued to drop with in about 2 secs. I figure it is getting good HPOP and this is the momentary bleed off.

PO replaced some time ago CPS with Autozone or something in an attempt to start it. No go. I am going to take my "emergency" CPS next time to see if that does it.

Because of the cranking-cutout, I cannot see FIPW. No way to know if the injectors are firing. It had reportedly been running a short time ago (weeks maybe?) and shut off while parked in the parking lot and never started again.

Batteries are low, but new-ish starter and cranks well. With jumpers, able to maintain 10.8v or so while cranking, though it was a bit up and down. I'll take a strong charger with 200amp boost mode next time.

Fuel pump runs. I can feel/hear it when the key is cycled. It has standard Rotella 15w-40w on this 50F day. Reportedly *wants* to be plugged in to start. I plan to switch to 5w-40w synthetic as soon as I can get it home.

It's automatic, pretty sure all van/stock. Here's a pic. Dog box gives good access to turbo and such, but everything else...

One battery under hood, other under cab/body. Has green antifreeze and leak at thermostat.

My goal is to get it running to get it home, about 30 miles, then replace ICP, CPS, IPR, Glowplugs (relay already done), thermostat and top housing and hose, convert to lifetime antifreeze, oil change to 5w-40w synthetic, 2 batteries (test alternator), uppipes or gaskets, Air filter (what upgrades available for this?), UVCH, idler pulleys and belt, replace trans fluid and filter, couple tires, paint inside box, weld and reinforce rear bumper, add radio, check cigarette plugs (think cell phones and gps), general cleanup.

I will have it and run it around 30 days. If it is solid and reliable, off to West Virginia it goes. If not, I'll part it out to get back what I can from it. I am paying for it up front, they are raising donations. But I won't let them pay anything (costs only) for it until I'm satisfied.

They need to run it about 5hrs round trip once a month immediately. That's about 3k miles per year. But I'm sure they will find lots of other uses, such as building supplies, etc. I'm hoping the injectors hold up for a while.

Right now they have multiple vehicles, trailers, drivers donating their time and vehicles (reimbursed for fuel only). It would be much better to take one hauling truck and one or two passenger vehicles... hence the box truck idea.

They distributed approximately 100k lbs of food last year. Not refrigerated, not needed. No CDL needed, about 14k GAVW. The PO has offered his carport where it is parked now, or even to push it into his garage with limited tools (I can bring some) to get it to run. Otherwise...

How to get this home?? Too heavy for my buddy's tow truck from the front. Wheels too far from back of box to reach them from the rear. No tow loops in front for tow bar, UHaul dolly rated at 4k (maybe?)

Dual rear wheels. Anything else I'm missing?