Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: E450 - Shuttle Bus Won't Start After Parking For 3 Days
Jun 7, 2017
I am a new diesel owner. So I'm not too familiar, how to trouble shoot. I am however, pretty familiar with working on gasoline vehicles. I have a 1999 E-450 Shuttle Bus that will not start after parking it for just 3 days. I live in the area where weather has been above 90 degrees each day. I've charged the batteries, replaced them, and boosted, still no start. I have fuel coming in the bowl. And the battery meter on dash is showing that I'm cranking at around 14 volts.
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I bought this 16' box truck today. 7.3L, 213k, 2003. It doesn't start and the owner gave a really good bottom dollar deal for all these reasons. Showing up armed with Torque Pro and my bluetooth adapter, I proceeded to plug it in and check for rpms, HPOP, Battery voltage, etc. No power to port
Find fuse diagram the owner located and fuse 23 is the OBD port. No fuse in place. He found us a fuse, I plugged it in, viola! Power to the port, TP is in action, ready to troubleshoot.
"Charged" battery, start cranking...no start. No Torque Pro (!) Apparently, the OBD port is cut-off while cranking .... Is there some other fuse or connection that will keep it connected during cranking so I can check for RPMs (no dash gauge for it)?
As soon as I left off the starter, the HPOP on TP showed 1212 then 850, then continued to drop with in about 2 secs. I figure it is getting good HPOP and this is the momentary bleed off.
PO replaced some time ago CPS with Autozone or something in an attempt to start it. No go. I am going to take my "emergency" CPS next time to see if that does it.
Because of the cranking-cutout, I cannot see FIPW. No way to know if the injectors are firing. It had reportedly been running a short time ago (weeks maybe?) and shut off while parked in the parking lot and never started again.
Batteries are low, but new-ish starter and cranks well. With jumpers, able to maintain 10.8v or so while cranking, though it was a bit up and down. I'll take a strong charger with 200amp boost mode next time.
Fuel pump runs. I can feel/hear it when the key is cycled. It has standard Rotella 15w-40w on this 50F day. Reportedly *wants* to be plugged in to start. I plan to switch to 5w-40w synthetic as soon as I can get it home.
It's automatic, pretty sure all van/stock. Here's a pic. Dog box gives good access to turbo and such, but everything else...
One battery under hood, other under cab/body. Has green antifreeze and leak at thermostat.
My goal is to get it running to get it home, about 30 miles, then replace ICP, CPS, IPR, Glowplugs (relay already done), thermostat and top housing and hose, convert to lifetime antifreeze, oil change to 5w-40w synthetic, 2 batteries (test alternator), uppipes or gaskets, Air filter (what upgrades available for this?), UVCH, idler pulleys and belt, replace trans fluid and filter, couple tires, paint inside box, weld and reinforce rear bumper, add radio, check cigarette plugs (think cell phones and gps), general cleanup.
I will have it and run it around 30 days. If it is solid and reliable, off to West Virginia it goes. If not, I'll part it out to get back what I can from it. I am paying for it up front, they are raising donations. But I won't let them pay anything (costs only) for it until I'm satisfied.
They need to run it about 5hrs round trip once a month immediately. That's about 3k miles per year. But I'm sure they will find lots of other uses, such as building supplies, etc. I'm hoping the injectors hold up for a while.
Right now they have multiple vehicles, trailers, drivers donating their time and vehicles (reimbursed for fuel only). It would be much better to take one hauling truck and one or two passenger vehicles... hence the box truck idea.
They distributed approximately 100k lbs of food last year. Not refrigerated, not needed. No CDL needed, about 14k GAVW. The PO has offered his carport where it is parked now, or even to push it into his garage with limited tools (I can bring some) to get it to run. Otherwise...
How to get this home?? Too heavy for my buddy's tow truck from the front. Wheels too far from back of box to reach them from the rear. No tow loops in front for tow bar, UHaul dolly rated at 4k (maybe?)
Dual rear wheels. Anything else I'm missing?
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2003 Ford 7.3 E450 ... Just recently got Auto Enginuity Ford enhanced
The problem....The van will run when plugged in for 2 hours or on either. Once started the van runs good. It will not start on its own even at 60 degrees
I got the following codes
KOER (Key On Engine Running)
P0476 Exhaust pressure control valve range/performance
P0673 Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit
KOER (Key On Engine Running) Cylinder Contribution
P0278 Cylinder 6 injector circuit contribution / balance fault
KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
P0113 Intake Air Temp Circuit High Input
KOEO Buzz Test (Key on Engine Off Buzz test)
successful
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2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
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After setting up about 8 days, my truck has long start now. It starts but takes longer.
I plan to start with charging the batteries over night and see what happens. How old they are since I bought it last year. The batteries did drag just a tad when it started but seem to be back up after driving.
New ICP few months back. I have a couple scan tools.... Forscan and Dash Command. What to look for?
Last note: it starts fine, just takes longer now. Is plan to start tonight.
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Here's my video of it doing it: [URL].....
98 e-450 rv cutaway with the 7.3 PSD. 219k.
Here's what I have done so far
-New GPR
-New Glow Plugs
-New CPS
-unplugged the PCM, and re-plugged
When it cuts out like the first time in the video, the accelerator pedal does nothing at all. Then once the WTS and CEL go off, it's fine again for a bit.
It seems to only do it when the engine is cold as well. After I had driven it around the block a few times and let it idle, it got better. I was able to drive it 20 miles round trip without it cutting out.
Also, might be related, it has been random on power since I got it. Sometimes I have to floor the accelerator to get up a hill, sometimes I barely need to touch it.
What to check next? It's hard to tell if it's de-fueling or if it's an electrical issue.
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I have no ground to glow plug solenoid, wiring is ok right up to the computer. Where I should go from there?
Its a 2001 E450 PSD. glow plugs not coming on at all.
should I be checking an engine temp sensor?
I don't have a wiring diagram so I am going in somewhat blind. ]
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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Looking for some tried and true fix to make these parking brakes hold just a little? Winter coming and with a six speed would like some resemblence of a brake....short of a brick in the drive. I have adjusted.....no luck. New cables ( thinking maybe stretched)..no luck. Shoes are new. Did notice levers where cable attach look to be worbled out.....gonna try to tighten that are up a little to see if that works but.
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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I have an electrical problem and my parking lights will not turn off. I had to pull the fuse in the power distribution box (engine compartment) to get them to turn out.
Pulled the switch in the dash (lights still work) and the switch is good so it appears I'm getting power to the circuit somewhere in the harness? Literally, when I pulled the switch out of the dash and replaced the fuse, my lights came on.
Looking for a schematic for a 1999 F350 SWB 7.3PSD? Perhaps it's a relay gone bad?
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What is the procedure to remove the parking brake cable from the axle? It looks like the cable has a locking device like the fuel lines but heavier. How do you get that thing out of there without destroying it?
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Got a 2002 7.3 f550 and the other morning it wouldn't go into high idle. Noticed my parking brake light was off. Messed with the switch and eventually jumped straight from the connector to ground... still no light. The light does illuminate with key on. I have tested the fuses. Where do I go from here? Looking for a wiring diagram....
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I installed a new trailer wiring harness onto the back of my 2002 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 diesel engine. Unfortunately, I was 180 degrees off on my wiring. When I hooked up to the camper I blew Fuse #115 (Trailer Tow Battery Charge) as it connected directly to the camper ground wire. I replaced the 20amp fuse and all other fuses were good. Currently, I have all the truck wires to the harness isolated and have power to all of them except for the parking lights. All the lights on the truck work fine.
My truck has a interior fuse panel on the driver's side as well as two small black boxes under the hood, near the brake booster. The under-hood boxes had only relays in them. Two relays in one black box, three in the other. The box with three relays had trailer left turn and right turn relays. which worked fine. The third in that box, apparently, is for the A/C clutch, controlled by fuse #10. The other black box (with two relays), apparently, are for 4WD Shift on the fly, controlled by fuse #111. So, no relay for the parking lights.
Next, I pulled the fuse panel out a little and checked continuity from the end of the parking light wire (brown with white stripe) at the back of the truck to the back of the fuse box and found that it was a good wire with no breaks or shorts to ground, however no voltage is showing at the parking light wire when I turn on the parking lights. The harness at the back of the fuse box has several wires going into it. The parking light wire (brown with white stripe) is in the same harness as the back-up light wire (black with green stripe) and the back-up light does have voltage, when I put it in reverse.
I'm not sure what happens inside of the fuse box, i.e., how does one fuse run a few wires... is there some kind of circuit board? I know the easy way would be to run a vampire connector from the truck parking lights, or maybe the license plate light to power the trailer lights, however, I'm just not built that way.
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I went to check out a '03 7.3 SD the other day. It didn't seem to have a lot of surge when I accelerated to freeway speeds. Kind of lazy feeling. Didn't smoke out the back though. It did have a front end clunking sound going over the parking lot speed bumps. I opened the oil fill cap while it was idling and it blew a plume of vapor/oil about 9' high like a steam engine puffing. Held my hand over it and got a oil wet palm after just a few seconds. I'm hesitant to drop any $$ on it.
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I have a 6.0 in a 2004 E-450 that starts and runs like a top except that it will not idle below 750rpm. If I give it just a tad of throttle it runs well. You can slowly let off the throttle and when it gets below the 700 it just dies like you turn the key off. Ford dealer spent piles of money on it and couldn't figure it out.
Got it in my Powerstroke shop and replaced CMP & CKP & tried another FICM. Is it possible that it would be the accelerator pedal assembly? The volts are what they should be but it dies so fast that the scanner can't see what's happening till it's too late.
It comes up with P2132, P2122, P2127, P2138, P2139 which are throttle related but am wondering if anything else could cause this before I start throwing more stuff on it.
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So recently my bus has been having issues shutting down on us. It started about 6 weeks ago. My band was on our way to a gig about 5 hours away from home. We got about 30 minutes outside of our destination and the bus just quit on us. After sitting for about 30 minutes, and switching some relays around, its fired back up and we made it to our destination. The ride back home the next day was pretty rough; it happened 3 more times...
We took it out again about 3 weeks ago for a trip about half the distance and the bus quit on us about 20 minutes into the journey. It took about an hour or so of sitting on the side of the highway before it started back up. Rather than try to risk making the trip, we turned around, dropped the bus off, and found alternative transportation...
I should probably add that the bus sat for about 3 or 4 months during the ridiculously harsh winter we had here this year, as we took the winter off from gigging. It was unplugged the entire time as it was stored in a parking lot across the street from my shop where I couldn't plug it in anywhere...
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I have an option to buy a e450 with a 6.0, 100k mi, with a utility body. I have the same thing but an 03 with a 7.3. this van has some known issues, biggest being it sat for a year and a half. it was parked due to excessive smoke out the exhaust. Ford shop diagnosed it as bad head gaskets, personally I am not believing it. There is no evidence of puking on the degas cap, and someone removed the band clamp from the down pipe and there is nothing but a little soot, so I don't really think a turbo seal either. The batteries were dead tonight so I am going to take a set of batteries down and see what happens. he is only asking 6000 as is. I am thinking probably egr cooler, egr valve or injector problem. If I buy it I am going to install a new oil cooler, blue spring, clean the turbo and delete the egr. Late 2004 engine btw.
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I have a 2008 E450 with a 6.0 and 5w110 trans. It started to leak at the bell housing. I figured it might be the front tc seal so I dropped the trans and replaced the seal. Reinstalled trans but its still leaking from the junction of engine and trans and from where the starter goes into the trans.
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