I have a 1999 Ford e350 7.3 powerstroke with 140000KMs on it.
The truck cranks really well but it just wont fire off, not even with a shot of starting fluid.
I recently changed all 8 glow plugs, fuel filter, fuel, oil and I keep it plugged in, my last mechanic told me the engine is toast and it cant be fixed.
I have a 99 Ford e350 7.3 Powerstroke with about 150000KMS on the clock. However I am having a really hard time starting it in the Cold Canadian Winter (-30). Last week I changed all 8 glowplugs, the batteries, the oil, fuel, fuel filter and yes i always keep it plugged in.
It cranks really well, but it just wont fire not even with a shot of start fluid. I don't know anything about these trucks much less a diesel engine. A guy took a look at it and said my engine needs to b replaced. (I think he is wrong)....
I have a 2001 E-350 with 7.3 that will not start on its own. It is showing only 80psi ICP while cranking. It started with the aid of some starting fluid it will run at 550 psi ICP but the ICP duty cycle is running over 20%. We started with less than 10 psi while cranking and after a new IPR was installed it's now at 80 psi while cranking. There is good battery voltage oil is at correct level the HPOP is full. I just don't know what to look at next.
View 6 RepliesI replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
View 10 RepliesI am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
My 99 E350 with 7.3 power stroke quickly lost power while on the highway today, bogged down and died. I couldn't get it restarted so had to have it towed home. I tried getting it started at home but it just pumps out white smoke out the exhaust. I got it to fire and run for a minute on a mixture of starting fluid and wd40 but wont stay running. Some background info, I checked oil and it was low but still registered at very tip of dipstick so I topped off oil level and still no start unless I give it a mixture of starting fluid and wd40. Batteries are good and cranking fast. Truck has 355,000 miles but very little blow by and prior to this had plenty of power and didn't have to use the block heater to start it thru the winter even when the temps dropped down to 12 degrees in January.
One thing I did have an issue with this past year was an intermittent cutting out while driving where the engine would instantly shut off but as soon as I tapped accelerator pedal it would start running again like nothing happened, wouldn't even last two seconds and it was running again just like shutting off the key and turning it back on and when it would do that the "Wait to start" light would come on and gauges would drop like key was off but again it all went back normal as soon as I hit a bump or tapped the accelerator pedal and it never lasted more than a second or two and never had to pull over, just tap the pedal or hit a bump and engine would kick in and run fine so not sure if that's related to whats going on now or not.
One of my batteries on my van is on the frame rail. The box rusted out so I routed the battery into the back of the van for now. The van wouldn't start because the batteries were low. I charged the battery in the front engine bay overnight but it did not charge the 2nd battery, does that mean there's a disconnect between the two batteries? I thought they were in parallel.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 E-350 w/7.3. When I start the truck first thing or when engine is cooled down it starts fine. I checked the high pressure pump pressure and it is 500 - 600 psi start up great. But when engine warms and try to start it it has long crank before starting. I checked pressure and it is between 425 to0 450 and takes awhile for it to get to 500 or better. Is this a cause of the high pressure oil pump ? I changed the oil and still does same thing. Also I noticed that after engine is hot and I try to start it, while cranking the engine the oil gauge does not move. I don't know if it supposed to when you crank it or not. I thought on other 7.3's I've worked on that the gauge builds up pressure....
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a used 2001 E350 with a 7.3L and the transmission is not shifting properly. It will go into Reverse no problem, put it in "D" and it starts in high gear and will not shift out. If I manually shift from 1 to 2 to "D" it works fine and will even go into OD. It will not down shift on its own either. What should I do to fix this issue?
View 2 Replies2002 e350 7.3 diesel transmission... At 7 miles the speedo began bouncing and truck drops into second. Parked it 30 minutes, stated up no problem until 8 miles and the it started again. Have checked most of the electrical, changed speed sensor and transmission position sensor. Only error code 2-3 rd gear mismatch.
View 11 RepliesSo a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford E350 Short Bus 7.3 It has abs in the rear diff. I have changed the sensor. I have connected my AE but get nothing at all from the sensor. My speedometer does work. My overdrive light flashes and the transmission does shift properly. I plan on looking for a bad ground. Can I test the wiring using a volt meter
View 2 RepliesI am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
Here is my issue. I have a 2000 e350 7.3 the overdrive light is flashing, the speedometer and the odometer isnt working it also shifts hard, i changed the vss, the vss plug, range sensor, and alternator. still acting up. also all the fuses are good.
View 8 RepliesI am having a difficult time trying to track down the root cause of a P1393 code in a 99.5 7.3. The code means all the glow plugs on the driver's side are not working. I don't have any other codes related to the glow plug system present in my computer.
I've replaced:
1)The Glow Plug Relay (I have the CA version with the shunt)
2)Valve cover gaskets and wire harnesses
3)Glow plugs
I've used all OEM product replacements.
Additional testing:
1)Voltage on the glow plug relay posts going to the left and right bank is the same (I think this means the shunt is okay)
2)Disconnecting the wire harness to the valve covers yields 12 volts at all 8 glow plug connections during the glow plug cycle
3)In one of the steps of a troubleshooting document I found, it requires a KOEO On-Demand Self Test. It does not complete and ends with a P0605 code, "Internal CTRL Module ROM Error" using a Snap On Scan tool.
4)Using the Snap On scan tool to run a glow plug test results in "Test has aborted 64 - Abnormal Exit without result".
5)I checked part of the wiring loom and it seemed to be good.
Is there a way to test the wire that goes from the Glow Plug Relay on the driver-side bank to the PCM? I think that either this wire is bad, or a bad PCM.
I have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2005 E350 6.0L with a 4x4 conversion and Sportsmobile penthouse roof. We barely made it out of Big Bend NP yesterday. Here's the protrusion of events...
Had rough starting for a while (separate conversation). Yesterday AM had a tough start and check engine came on. We were about 5 miles up a dirt road, no major off roading but dirt and bumps along the way down. Throughout the day made a handful of stops/starts. Each time battery light would stay on and then go off after getting to about 2k RPM. On the drive out I noticed the battery gauge decreasing.
Turned off all radio, lights, etc. Kept dropping and eventually the "limp home" mode kicked in with the battery gauge below L. Maybe 20 miles of safety mode at 50mph all gauges went off. Still driving. Another 5 minutes all gauges kicked on and showed normal. Stopped, turned off and restarted and drove normal the rest of the way into town and full highway speeds.
I have it in a shop now but would love to back up what they might tell me. My guess. Loose connection to alternator or battery somewhere. I originally thought the alternator had crapped out but it having kicked back on with no issues for the last 30 miles makes me think that's not it. Batteries are only 3 months old. Battery gauge back to normal today and started up/made its way to the mechanic no problem.
Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
How long do the glow plugs stay on during a cold start? Do the glow plugs stay on during the first few minutes of running?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 e350 with a 6.0 lt. diesel and an automatic trans. The problem is when its cold there is no power ( 10 mph max ). When it warms up it does just fine. The other problem witch I think is connected is when it shifts I lose all power to my gauges and radio for a split second. I am thinking transmission but not sure.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
View 6 Replies