Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Driver Window Switch Not Working?
Jul 21, 2016
New to these trucks so a quick question on the window switch controls. I put power to the truck for the first time in about 8 years. First thing i wanted to do is see if the power windows worked. Everything went down very nicely but getting them back up was a no go from the driver seat. They all worked well seperatly but not from the pilots seat? Is it a typical issue with these trucks? When rocking the switch I can hear a relay under the dash panel close to where the access panel for the fuses. Mirrors work as well as do the locks. I pryed up the switch panel and un plugged it and reinstalled it with no luck. As it is I cant get the driver side window up or the passanger window up from the driver side?
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Is there a way to repair an individual switch on the drivers master window switches, or do I I have to replace entire 4 switch and window lock set?
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower. I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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I have an early 99 f350. when i got the truck the OD switch(maybe light too) didn't work. i ran it for about 1k mi. yesterday i left work to come home and i didn't have 1st or 2nd gear but still had 3rd and od. the only way to get 2nd is to manually put it in 2nd gear. 1st seems to be nowhere around.
I do not have a code reader and wont for at least a month or so. I did install a simple ts6 in it, that's about all i did with the truck.
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I am having a difficult time trying to track down the root cause of a P1393 code in a 99.5 7.3. The code means all the glow plugs on the driver's side are not working. I don't have any other codes related to the glow plug system present in my computer.
I've replaced:
1)The Glow Plug Relay (I have the CA version with the shunt)
2)Valve cover gaskets and wire harnesses
3)Glow plugs
I've used all OEM product replacements.
Additional testing:
1)Voltage on the glow plug relay posts going to the left and right bank is the same (I think this means the shunt is okay)
2)Disconnecting the wire harness to the valve covers yields 12 volts at all 8 glow plug connections during the glow plug cycle
3)In one of the steps of a troubleshooting document I found, it requires a KOEO On-Demand Self Test. It does not complete and ends with a P0605 code, "Internal CTRL Module ROM Error" using a Snap On Scan tool.
4)Using the Snap On scan tool to run a glow plug test results in "Test has aborted 64 - Abnormal Exit without result".
5)I checked part of the wiring loom and it seemed to be good.
Is there a way to test the wire that goes from the Glow Plug Relay on the driver-side bank to the PCM? I think that either this wire is bad, or a bad PCM.
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My driver's door power window motor stopped working. Replaced motor (Dorman). New motor was shaky and wouldn't stop when going down. Replaced motor again (Dorman), same thing. Regulator became damaged, replaced (Dorman), smoother, still won't stop with auto button, or holding down button. At some point glass came out of regulator and track. Replaced glass. Window goes up and down smoothly, but just doesn't stop when going down and tries to keep going. I don't see a limit switch or circuit for it. I see there is a relay and a fuse for the auto down. What tells the motor to stop driving current?
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My drivers door window switch no longer does the one touch operation. Yesterday I rolled the window down and it wouldn't come back up. After driving around for a while with the window down, I was successful in getting it to roll back up. This was after several repeated tries and shutting the car on and off. Does this mean I probably need a new switch? Is this a somewhat common issue?
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So my car is just under 2 weeks old. I had the car tinted today and now the drivers side window switch will not operate the passenger side window. The switch on the passenger side works fine and the window operates perfect. The drivers side window operates perfect.
The tint guys are still out there trying to fix this. There isn't some locking mechanism that could be preventing this correct? Or did they somehow short the switch out only on the passenger side switch? So aggravating.
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My GTI has 300 miles on it, just noticed that the auto up/down function on the driver's side window switch only works sometimes. You have to push or pull hard on the switch to get it to auto open or close. I'm assuming it could just be a faulty switch?
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1. The front driver's side window does not seem to have auto or express up/down. (Works fine for both passenger side windows).
2. The rear driver's side window doesn't not go up or down at all when using the driver's door switch. The rear door switch operates the window just fine, so it's a switch issue, not a window issue. (Probably obvious from the symptoms but I am not talking about accidentally locking the 3 non driver windows & then being confused)
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99 f150 xlt power windows. My friends always like to roll my windows down to try and smoke cigarettes. I was wondering if there is any way to install a window lock maybe a switch that turns on or off but still allows me to control the windows from the drivers side.
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower.
I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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The power window on the passenger front side will go down using the switch on that door, but, I have to put it up using the switch on the driver's side. What is happening?
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So all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.
My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.
After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.
After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.
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My ESOF crapped the bed as the truck was stuck in 4 Low. I took the transfer case motor switch off to access the gear underneath it.
I'm able to get vise-grips on it but it only turns clockwise. It keeps turning to a point it won't turn anymore and, if I let go, it will switch back to its original position.
I can do without 4WD until I get ESOF fixed, but is there a trick to manually changing it to 2WD?
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I seem to have a glitch in my ignition switch box or column. Most likely in the column itself. Whats the recommended course of action here? Contact cleaner and then white lithium grease in the column? Can WLG be used on the ignition switch box itself, that's bolted under the column?
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So was replacing my power steering pump get all done and my headlights start flickering and then stay on the switch is off it does have DRL on it but they have been unplugged for about 10 years what do I need to check
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Not near my truck at the time and wondering if I can install one of these switches. I don't know where the 2 positive battery cables meet.
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I know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
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My power window switch illumination has gone dark on one side of the switches....
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