Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Driver Side Rear Brake Metal Line Cracked
Apr 14, 2016
I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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2003 Ford excursion 7.3. Above the drivers side front tire, the hard inner plastic made contact with the hard line above the frame.. Cut the line. I can't tell if this line is 1 piece towards the reservoir since its hidden from my quick inspection. Looking for a schematic on replacing this line?
This happened after my wife took the truck back to the sugar bush.. She must have been hitting jumps or something
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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I noticed my rear brake smoking on the truck really just the rear driver side. I had replaced the pads and caliper and rotor a very long time ago. What I think happened is the parking brake got hung up somehow. The wheel was extremely warm and the reason I noticed it was not only the smoke but I felt some sort of wobble or almost out of alignment issue.
When I got home I noticed the smoke and extreme heat. I removed the caliper and the pads look still "new" and evenly worn. I did bleed the caliper just to make sure no air, I even put a spacer in the caliper and my wife applied the brake and they closed appropriately. Then I was trying to get the rotor off and no success. I did adjust the parking brake but I am not sure if you move it up or down to loosen it up?
I have used PB Blaster to try and loosen it up, rubber mallet while I turn it (although it does not turn easily at all), I sprayed it inside where the adjuster is hoping it would seep down between the shoes and the hub. I heated the hub up with a little torch - no success. I was thinking of using a wood piece as a butter and hammer from the inside out on the rotor but fear that will warm the rotor itself.
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Working on putting this project back together and cant find my notes when I pulled it apart last year. Any schematic or picture of their brake lines from the master cylinder to the rabs or front brakes? Better yet, which port on the master cylinder goes to what axle?
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Having trouble figuring out how to remove the rear fuel line from the fuel pump. Doesn't seem to be the type that uses the quick disconnect tool like the front line does.
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Any recommendations on brake calipers and hose?
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My passenger side braided line from the HPOP to the passenger head decided to rupture. Got 300k on the clock so that recommended 100k change interval is on the low side. Do I need the 'special tool' to remove the line from the HPOP and what is the current recommendation on a replacement line?
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I am in the process of replacing my water pump. After I removed the pump, I found quite a bit of metal-on-metal wear between the impeller and the water pump housing. Is this common?
I've been running a coolant filter on my system for years now, so hopefully its been effective at collecting some of the metal that has clearly been worn away. Either that, or this is a sign that the filter isn't working at all!
I'm a little worried that the new pump will scrape the scars left from the old pump.
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I've got a late 99 7.3 truck that I just recently did a lot of work on. I installed a new turbo with bellowed up pipes and a new exhaust system and when I went to start it up it started leaking fuel in the back pretty badly. Initially I thought it was the banjo bolt or the passenger fuel line but looking at it more closely I realized that it's not coming from there. It's dripping all over the side of the starter and is collecting at the low point of the metal lines down below. I also saw small droplets coming out of the up pipe where it meets the manifold but it looked like nowhere near enough to produce the kind of leak I'm seeing, also I know fuel shouldn't be coming out of the up pipe to begin with. This is really annoying and I would like to drive my truck again.
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Question, I have a 2003 VW Golf GLS 2.0L AHV (5 speed). The brake vacuum line is cracked after the check valve on the intake side. I looked up the part number on the hose (at work and don't have it on me at the moment), did some research and noticed some revisions to that part number. Eventually settled on [URL] ..... (I ordered a new one since I needed to order a few things). Needless to say, I am beginning to think I ordered wrong.
I noticed that the check valve on the new hose has a 3rd piece that a smaller hose looks to clamp on? The check valve that is in my car doesn't have that. Did I order the wrong part? or did I need to be a cap?
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My 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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I have a 2003 Toyota Solara 4 cyl. auto. transmission. I recently had the head replaced. Now it is making a metal on metal sound near the drivers side of the engine. It makes the sound during idle, when I change gears, and the sound increases when I rev the engine. What could it be?
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2005 PSD 6.0L Excursion ... I suspect that have a fuel leak at the fuel line fittings near the driver side cylinder head. (I believe that it is fuel, since it is so clear, I guess I should collect a few drops and see if it burns vs. coolant.)
It appears to be at the junction of the fuel lines. This is the point where the fluid drops off the tubing and falls down. The clip that holds the two tubes together at the joint is very dirty, the one below them is clean. The tag on the line that is at the joint leaking is part number 3c34-9j338-ag. Is there a o-ring in side the joint? Do I need to replace both hoses of the joint? I can't find any posting of a history of this fuel line leaking.
Or... is it that the joint never fail, and the leak is up tube? I can't see any where it is coming out when viewing it from the top.
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Is there a different battery box or better battery holder for the driver side without all the air filter housing stuff. I had an AFE Big boost filter and when I modified the stock battery box it still had the bottom section of the air filter compartment well after about 4-5 years I was cleaning the filter today and there was a hole rubbed in the filter from moving around and the pre filter is getting holes wore through it. So I cut the air box part off so now the filter will sit on the fiberglass stuff on the fender well. I ordered a couple of the new Blue Donaldsons from RiffRaff to replace the Big Boost filter. The modified filter box looks kinda like a hack job because all I had was a cut off wheel and the plastic got hot and now I have melted buggers all over it. I thought I saw somethin a long time ago about a battery holder out of a van that was just the bottom plate but can't find it anywhere now.
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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Small oil leak looks like coming down by drivers side up pipe. I don't think it's the turbo o rings. Better not be. But could be I guess. Anyways. It runs down somewhere by the up pipe down onto transmission. I'm not loosing tremendous oil or anything.
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I have a '02 7.3 that has developed a severe oil leak in what seems to be a small line that runs from the drivers side head to the HPOP on the passengers side.
it seems to be leaking at the braket that secures it to the head on the drivers side.
what is this line called and where can i find one A.S.A.P?
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'99 F250 SuperDuty. Tumbler is recessed and the key slot is horizontal rather than vertical. I suspect the spring fingered clip has fallen off.
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