Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Cylinder Head Fuel And Oil Rail Plug ORing Replacement
Mar 8, 2017
Is this job worth doing as a preventative maintenance item? I replaced the rear fuel rail plug (aka banjo bolt) o-rings because they were very easy to get to with the up-pipes out. But the cylinder head plug in the rear is pretty high up and even with the up-pipes out, there isn't enough room to get a breaker in there that's long enough and has enough movement to loosen it. The front would be easier to get to, but both accessory brackets need to come off to get to them on both sides.
As far as I know, none of them leak but they're all 17 years old... BTW in case you haven't been following, I'm doing up-pipes, injectors, turbo, rebuilt HPOP & fuel bowl, boots & clamps, etc. so I'm trying to knock out any PM items while I have it apart.
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I'm doing standpipes and dummy plugs. There is a 4mm plug with an oring and mine was trashed. What is the P/N?
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Next mods are for the fuel rail cross over and the high pressure oil cross over. I see the unused ports will come in handy.
Fuel delivery? any specialty mods to run the fuel lines? I see it's a #4 ORB fitting. Anyone ever use a "T" or a splitter off the fuel bowl to have a quad line set up?
Saw the FRx from RiffRaff .... not sure how it eliminates air from the system 7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
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I had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
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I have an oil leak where the HPOP hose attaches to the cylinder head. I have the removal tool for the hose. I assume I need a new fitting. What's the torque spec for this fitting, and any additional tips I need for doing this repair?
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In my motor build I'm replacing the HPOP fittings in the head. Do these need any sort of thread locker to secure?
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What are the hose lengths for the 2 HPOP and cylinder head oil crossover line? How about what size oring boss fittings you need into the head?
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I will be changing all the glow plugs in a few days. Should I re-torque the head bolts or anything while I am in there? Don't want to button it back up and then wish I had done something while in there.
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I just replaced the glow plugs, gpr, valve cover gasket and harness. When cooled down, cranks but won't fire. Smoke DOES come out the tailpipe. If I plug it in for awhile it fires right up. What else can I do or check?
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The fuel line on the passenger side under the turbo that leads to the head is leaking looks like from rubbing on the pedestal, anyone ever just cut it and throw in some fuel line and hose clamps?
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2005 PSD 6.0L Excursion ... I suspect that have a fuel leak at the fuel line fittings near the driver side cylinder head. (I believe that it is fuel, since it is so clear, I guess I should collect a few drops and see if it burns vs. coolant.)
It appears to be at the junction of the fuel lines. This is the point where the fluid drops off the tubing and falls down. The clip that holds the two tubes together at the joint is very dirty, the one below them is clean. The tag on the line that is at the joint leaking is part number 3c34-9j338-ag. Is there a o-ring in side the joint? Do I need to replace both hoses of the joint? I can't find any posting of a history of this fuel line leaking.
Or... is it that the joint never fail, and the leak is up tube? I can't see any where it is coming out when viewing it from the top.
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My fuel bowel drain valve is leaking again. I plan to do the hutch mod in the next month or so. Have the kit already. So I can't do the fuel bowel delete yet. it seems one of the mount holes for the drain Valve is stripped. The top rh screw won't snug up. I swapped out the orings and it still leaks. I'm sure it's from that screw. So I'm thinking about a flange bolt and an oring from the inside of the fuel bowel. It's going to be a temporary fix.
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I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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Looking for the Ford (or even Dorman) part number for the Water-in-Fuel sensor that bolts to the outside of the fuel bowl?
Guzzle has it pictured here:
The water sensor tip on mine is badly corroded and eaten away.
What's a part number and who sells them that I can get it delivered next day?
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I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
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So I did a cylinder contribution test and a buzz test today. It buzzed evenly on all cylinders. Then when I did the cylinder contribution test I got these codes,
P0269 cylinder 4 contribution balance
P0284 cylinder 8 contribution balance
It has been running a little rough lately but not smoking. Seems to be chattering more than it was too. I did the FRx, HPx, CVDs and banjo bolt mods about 500 miles ago and it was a lot quieter and ran better. Just recently started running rough and a little louder. Could these injectors be bad? I did new injector O-rings about 800 miles ago. I ran the test with the engine cold and with it warmed up and got the codes both times. It seems to have a little bit of throttle flutter when holding it about half throttle while driving.
As far as I know the injectors haven't been replaced and they have 186K miles on them.
2001 F-350 Lariat Dually Supercab 6-spd manual 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel 186,000 miles....
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So, I blew my head gasket and have been looking for what to replace it with. From what I've seen, just an OEM gasket would be best.? I'm also putting ARP studs in it, unless there's another brand I should put in it.
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Well i had an exhaust leak on this F250 and so I started torquing the bolts on the manifold to the head. (45 ft.lbs) A couple were very loose so I was thinking "Great, this may fix my problem!"
My first mistake was probably the Harbor Freight Tools torque wrench.
I am on the driver side, second from the rear and then bang! I see a gaping hole where the bolt used to be. Bolt on the floor. I cant see up in the hole to the head, I think it broke flush with the head.
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I've found everything there is to know about disconnecting the high pressure oil STC line from the oil rail on the early 6.0's, but I can't find anything about reconnecting them. Do you simply press it back on? Should there be an audible "click"?
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So I'll give a little history. Had blown head gaskets so I tackled that got it back together and now I can't get it to start. I have a monitor but it won't tell me if I have ficm sync. I have 1500 psi cop reading. I have spinning it over far 15 to 20 minutes. I'm using a bluetooth scanner and a app on my phone. I have no codes thrown or anything else. Do I keep cranking on it or am i missing something.
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On the back of my truck I have two plugs to operate trailer lights/brakes etc but I only use one. The one I'm not using (pictured) I'd like to adapt for aux power in the trailer to operate some IP cameras. I need to know about the pin outs of this connector and what gauge wire to use between the trailer and truck. I plan on running the 12V and ground conductors from this plug through an adapter into the trailer.
In the trailer I'll have a 1000W inverter --> UPS --> TL-WR810N Router --> TL-SG1008P POE switch --> and 4 small ip cams.
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