2001 7.3L 4x4 328,000 miles.... I have the crew cab? (rear doors open opposite to the front) anyhow whenever it rains the carpet under the rear seat is wet. Just wondered if this is a known issue, with a fix or just something random I'm going to need to chase down....
View 10 RepliesI have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??
It's a 2001 7.3 crew cab short bed with 260000 miles it has an sct programmer,exhaust, sbc intake simple mods . One day I was driving and it shut off on me so my first thought was the fuel filter so I changed it and it start right away. Shortly later it did the same thing but this time changing the filter did nothing so I put in a cps sensor after reading that could be the problem. Which fixed it for a day or two now it will not start at all it just cranks. I have checked and I am getting fuel to the bowl I tried changing the cps again and also I have no tach reading when cranking. When I crank it my hpop is not getting any oil that is where I am at ?
View 14 RepliesI am at a loss on what this could be. For the past 8 - 9 months my truck will randomly miss and if I am going slow enough it will cause the engine to quit but only when it is raining. I sometimes get a service light when it happens but as soon as i turn the key off and back on it goes away. My truck runs perfect otherwise and even when it rains except when it randomly does what I just explained.
This started when I replaced my passenger side valve cover gasket and I also took out my "brain box" (don't remember what it's called) and put it back in (didn't replace it). I did have the up-pipe replaced as well around the same time and put in EGT, boost and trans temp gauges. That's about the only things engine compartment wise that's been done.
I did just take it to a shop to put on a scanner and after his testing it did spit out 1 code. It was the cam position sensor. Can this sensor cause what I have explained? Like I said, this only happens when it rains. Doesn't matter if it's poring or barely sprinkling.
So last year I pulled the motor and put a new pan on. Since then the oil has leaked from the rear lobe at the back of the pan. No oil leaks up top of engine. So I pulled the tranny and am going to put in a rear main. I also see a plate that bolts on the back of the motor and the bottom glues to the pan. I am concerned I did not glue the pan well enough in the lobe as only about 1.5 inches of the lobe has a small amount of grey rtv sticking out. How do I remove the aluminum mount on back of motor that the tranny bolts to? What seals the plate? Oring? Gasket?
View 2 RepliesAfter checking my fuel bowl today for contaminants, I put the lid back on and then noticed a leak from the rear at drain valve. I know, I already ordered the orings. It was doing one drip about every three seconds with the truck running. However, I turned the yellow thing a couple times and the leak stopped. Not leaking right now. Maybe it wasn't shut from previous owner.
Second question.....After stopping leak and after routing my fuel drain hose, I decided to give it a try. No luck. Nothing out or drain. Based on my first fuel filter change, it may be clogged up. So, do I run wire from the bottom up? Or do I run wire from top (bowl) down? Just so you know, sucked the bowl dry with a vacuum device before I reinstalled the filter.
Cleaned the truck today & noticed that the carpet in the passenger side footwell was wet, not real bad but wet at the edge by the trim, when I peeled up the trim the channel was full of clean water so I know it's not the heater.
I'm guessing that it may be a blocked drain but won't have time to check for another week, we did have some pretty bad rain last week so maybe it was just too severe for the drain to cope?
I should have taken the pic before I dried it up but the channel between the carpet & the door rubber was pretty much full
There is a mark where the water has run down the floor. Just to the left of the red antenna cable, I pulled out the glove box but couldn't see anywhere obvious that it has got in.
Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
View 4 RepliesToday I noticed a wet carpet in my wagon(floor behind driver seat) and I know that my bro washed it for me last week, so how it got wet. He takes really good care of our cars and he's confused also. I just got back from a long trip. BTW it is water, and not coolant.
View 10 RepliesEvery time it rains I get a wet spot in the far left corner by the spare tire. Am I looking at a new seal or is this a trait with a different fix.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
Why when it rains my rear seat on the driver side of my 2007 camry se is soaking wet on the outer edge of the seat and outside edge of the backrest.
View 11 RepliesHaving issues with seat belt disconnecting on its own? Ill be driving down the road and it just unbuckles......i figure its got gunk in it so I will and try and clean.... maybe spring is weak.
View 6 RepliesAll- Yesterday i had the car in a driveway (incline of ~5Degree). I gave the car a nice wash (both above and under the car and got it in the garage so that i can wax it. removing the rear carpets (both Driver and pass side) i saw it being damp..
Pulled out the carpet and the rear of the car(see pics) was soaking wet. there was absolute no water in the driver and passenger well. I am not able to figure of the reason. Also the temperature is ~50 in Michigan so have not used the A/c for almost a month..
This is what i have done:
Looked at all the seals (the ones visible)- looked ok.
Took a horse and gave a nice under body wash.. no water came up
Checked the sunroof.. the sides of the seat were not wet (I think no water came from there)
All the door moulding, dry..
Am I missing some seals.. or am I overlooking something.
I have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
View 3 RepliesFor some strange reason I'm getting water under the passenger side carpet, but it only seems to be happening after it rains. I don't know where it's coming from, but it seems to be right in front of the front passenger seat. I've only had the car for a month and would like to get this fixed..
View 4 RepliesThis was briefly discussed as part of another thread. It appears that I have a boost leak when I hit roughly 24.5 psi. The leak seems to stay for a few minutes after showing itself, but then I'm able to produce boosts up to 24.5 again. For example, on my 20-mile/30-minute drive to work, I can make this leak "appear" four or five times, maybe more if I try. Does this self-healing leak ring a bell? I haven't done a boost leak test yet, but I'm leaning towards the RTV sealant at the OEM plenums due to the self-healing attribute.
To add a little info to this thread, I recently installed an S&B intake, 4" exhaust, bellowed up-pipes, RR billet wheel, RR CAC intercooler boot kit with new clamps, RDP reinforcing plenum inserts, AIH delete plug, and I removed the wastegate solenoid along with the red and green tubes. I don't have any gauges, but I recently began monitoring the boost using FORScan. Before all of this, I don't think I was producing enough boost to cause this leak, and I had no way to monitor for this leak.
Brothers of fte. I reach out. Tonight it appears I had a fuel bomb under the hood.
I've been chasing a fuel leak. Replaced fuel drain orings but one screw seemed to not snug up. Also the plastic was so brittle I couldn't replace the inner oring. Installed new valve worked great. A week later noticed new slow drips. Replaced fuel filter. Again good for two weeks.
Tonight pulled into the driveway hopped out immediately smelled diesel. Steaming from under hood. Popped the hood and everything was wet. Moved her to the street and it clattered like I was running out of fuel. Still half a tank though. Hosed of the drive. Popped hood again fired it up easily. Started fine. No noticeable leak. But everything is wet from fuel. Insulation on hood was saturated. When I open the hood fuel ran out of the insulation into the air intake. Batteries were wet!
Alright what gives? Do I have to be under load to see this leak?
I've developed a large oil leak in the valley. My guess is the EBPV. What's it take to fix the leak if I DONT remove the valve?
There's a good chance I'll just take it to my works fleet dept and tell them to fix it.
I have a 2003 Honda civic. When it rains water leaks inside and soaks the carpet under the diver's feet and the left side a the back seat. There is no sign of water on the dashboard or driver door, so I don't think the leak is coming from the windshield or drivers window. Could it be coming under the dashboard and running down the floor board? Where would I take the car to try and get this fixed?
View 7 RepliesDo I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
View 6 Replies