Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Crank No Start Sometimes - Stutter / Stalls And Slow Acceleration


Dec 28, 2016

I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.

Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.

As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.

I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.

I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.

I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.

I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Battery Drain And Slow Crank If Sitting For Couple Of Days?

If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.

That seems like a lot, no?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Stalls Randomly And Sometimes Will Not Start

2001 Excursion 7.3 - stalls randomly, sometimes will not start. After the IPR was replaced it was rough for about 4 miles (I thought maybe air in the system), next 40 miles was flawless with 3 stops and restarts. Then it sat for a few hours and I went to leave again and the problem was off and on again for another 5 mile drive. Now it won't start in the driveway. It will start if I disconnect the ICP but the idle is still a little rough.

I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:

CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
Grounds - found somewhere that the ground on the firewall for the windshield wipers can interfere with the CPS so I pulled it, clean the connections and made sure it was tight and secure.
No check engine light now - I received a few through the process, but did not clear them and there are no codes at this time (self cleared on the 40 mile drive)

I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.

I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.

Below are my thoughts on the next steps.

Research and test fuel pressure
Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Cranks / No Start Sometimes Stalls At Idle

1999 7.3l 6spd standard 4x4. Just bought the truck 4 months ago knowing it had a problem that once warm occasionally would t start. Happened a few times every week or two. But wait 15 minutes and the truck would fire back up. Then it started happening more often throughout a day. And I would have to wait longer for it to cool to start it up.

Icp has been changed
Cam sensor
Pulled valve covers to check to see if there were any injector o rings failing. They were all good. Put it all back together.
Pulled the IPR and tore it apart cleaned it all out

Started driving it ran great for a week. Then today sitting at a light the truck died just as if I had turned the key off. Wouldn't start for 3 hours. The. Fired up. Took it to buddies show and started checking things out again. Both batteries load test great and fully charged. Alternator pumping out 13.5 and up.

Codes i have pulled are waste gate to high /low

I forget the number for that one. The second was P1211. Cps has been changed and ipr cleaned. Think that I should replace the ipr of this happens again?
I did get w code a few weeks ago about low voltage at module. this code doesn't appear anymore. Since I checked the plug ins all looks good. But the PCM wasn't mounted properly. So I fixed that up and checked battery connections. They were very good so I re did all of that.

Anyway. Back to the problem. After ipr clean. Drove as she should until sitting at a light a week later. Truck just quit. Would t start back up until cold. Any thoughts. New IPR? Oil in hpop within half inch from top. And I don't seem to have any oil leaks. Did oil change fuel and air filter. Not low on any fluids. I had a 1997 too and threw a bunch of cash at it like this one trying to find the issues.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Cold Crank No Start

I have an 02 f250 230,000, first 7.3. I've owned it since Oct and put less than 6,000 miles on it. I have another cold crank no start. New glow plugs and Glow plug relay last weekend. Worked fine that weekend. It sat all week, then crank no start fri night, it was like 70 degrees for the high that day. Plugged it in over night and it started. Did not fire right up cranked it for a couple seconds. I drove it all day, started every time. Valve covers have 5,000 miles on them. Fuel Filter heater fuse not blown. But don't know how to check it for sure. And don't know where to go with it from here. Getting frustrated with crank no starts. No troubles found.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Crank But Won't Start

I got a 2000 7.3l with 400,000 miles on it that decided to just not start anymore after I parked it for a couple days. Its always been a hard starter due to needing glow plugs but I can deal with that. it doesn't even try to fire anymore. I replaced the CPS (my tack bounces when cranking). The ICP has oil in the plug so I just unplugged it for now till I replace it.

I pulled the IPR and cleaned it really good and bench tested it with 12 volts and could here it clicking so I put it back in. I can get under the drivers door with the key on and hear the fuel pump running. I gain oil pressure on my dash gauge when cranking. I check all my fuses. my WTS light comes on . I just don't have any fancy scan tools to make this easier. Also just cause I was feeling lucky I just went out and bought 2 new batteries for it yesterday so we are good there.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 1997 - Crank But Won't Start?

I have a 1997 F350 7.3 with standard xmission. Have not messed with it since Oct of last year. Then it would crank but no start. Now when I turn the key there is no wts or nothing the gauges move, and tach moves when cranking, but nothing else.

The cam and crank pos sensors have been changed. The high pressure sensors changed. Now when I hook it to the AE it says cannot connect to truck. Where I need to start? Have checked all fuses that I know about.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Won't Start / Just Crank And Tried To Fire

Friend's 2000 7.3 wont start, just crank and crank tried to fire but nothing in the cold leave it plugged in and it starts leave it in a shop over night and it starts with a shot of either, he is a truck driver and the truck will sometimes sits for 6 weeks at a time this time 2 weeks before I touched it. He wanted me to install a fuel pump so I did and started the following:

Cracked fuel lines to see if I had fuel psi at both heads
I tested glowplugs they all read at 0.3 on all 8
I have power to harness as the same at both sides of the relay
RPM tach jumps
Oil psi gauge rises
Using my phone I can read hpop and 2000 at cranking (how accurate that is im not 100% sure)
All fuses good

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: New Injectors - Crank But Won't Start - Low ICP?

So I got all 8 injectors upgraded and excited when I get them back I put them all in in kind of a rush. And in that rush I left the cylinders full of excess oil. So obviously when I tried to start it hydro locked. Angry at myself. I kept trying to crank hoping it would fire and just shoot that oil out. Nope, so I went back to taking all the glow plugs out and firing it all back out. Put it all back together then tried to fire her up. Took a minute but she started and I let it run for a while. Hit the gas a few times and then it died. Couldn't get it started again. It would just crank, I checked the icp and ipr and the icp did not build above 35 psi and the ipr was at 98.04% so I just figured the o rings blew out when it hydro locked.

So I took it all back apart put new o rings on, took my time and put it back together right double checking everything. Got it all back together and went to start it, it would just crank around 160-170 rpms, battery voltage at 10.6 icp built up to 140 but now it won't build past 40. Ipr still goes to 98.04. The engine ran just fine prior to injector change, I put a new upgraded hpop prior to injector change, new ipr, icp, cps. Everything checks out, but it will not build oil pressure while crank I've killed a set of batteries then went all out and spent 350 at napa for some optima red tops. I did notice the cylinder 7 injector is the AE injector. It suppose to be in cylinder 8, idk if that's affect the oil pressure building up?

But as far as I know, I'm not building oil pressure. So idk if the hydro lock could have ruined something to keep it from building oil pressure?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - Crank But Won't Start?

i have a 2001 f250 7.3L PSD. it turns over but will not run. replaced the CPS , starter and the #30 fuse. IPR is new and all injectors are new, new gaskets and harness and new glow plugs new batteries. still just cranks and cranks. no oil pressure build up and no tach movement, oil level is good in HPOP. What could it be?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Just Crank When Try To Start Cold

So back ground is as such. Truck started fine before I replaced the hpop with t500 and did the driven diesel regulated return. I have double checked everything is plugged in. Now when I try to start it cold it will just crank. Yes I get smoke and oil pressure both places. If I give it a shot of ether it will start right up and run fine all day. What am I missing? Yes I know ether bad.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F450 - Crank But Will Not Start

i have a 99 f450 7.3 that cranks but will not start. I did an injector buzz test but it sais no communication between the computers. it has a new rebuilt engine, new ipr, icp, hpop, water pump, and both computers.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 7.3 - Crank But No Start

Found icp sensor with oil in plug and codes p1211 and p1212. Icp sensor reading 0 pressure. Changed out icp sensor. Still cranks no start check oil level in hpop resverior, check with brake clean spray nozzle and no oil on it. Filled resverior with oil. She tried to start. Had to put the charger on her and she finally lite off and came to life. Questions, how would that resverior empty out? Was it because I pulled that sensor? Is there s check valve in that resverior hanging up?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F350 Won't Crank At All / When Turn The Key To Start Power Drops

New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...

I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.

Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed

When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)

So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?

I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.

FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F350 - Cranks Just Fine / Slow To Start

It's a 99 f350 7.3 diesel powerstroke. About 180k miles I think.

It cranks fine. I just changed the glow plugs(all were dead) but when you try and start from cold, it takes about 7-10 seconds to fire. The oil res is full, tried disconnecting the EOP sensor, still fires up and takes just as long. There is one near the oil filter, and that seems to not be it either.

Doesn't smoke, no oil leaks that I know of. Not sure what else to check before sending it to another shop to get put on a diagnostics machine. I read about the IPR, but it has no problems when running. Only problem is a very long time to start. Also changed the fuel filter.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Partial Crank And Intermittent Start

Anyway, I went out to start my truck just now and I'm getting a weird symptom.

The truck gets partial revolution and then to me it seems like the starter bendix pulls back in prematurely and this nasty clank and then a slight "zing". all within a second.

If I try a few more times, it seems to fire. But all the attempts before it fires sound pretty nasty to me.

Does this sound like a symptom of a bad starter/bendix?

A little further history, my excursion was broken into several years ago and they stole my pioneer head unit, in doing so, they forced the shifter down and since then it has been a little "loose". I'm wondering if it could be a neutral safety switch on the transmission?

Anyway, I'm getting ready to order a new neutral safety switch but wondering if I should go ahead a purchase a new starter as well?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Crank But Will Not Start / Sputter And Smoke

I have a 99 F3 50 with the 7.3 L I am done a lot of work to replace the HPOP pump and the ICP sensor as well as the IPR it cranks but does not start it will sputter and smokes but doesn't run SOS. Also there are no dtc in computer....

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F350 - Crank But No Start

I've replaced the alternator and starter recently and both batteries and the truck ran fine befor that. But it sat for roughly 2 months and now it seems as if its not getting fuel. Will start with a shot of ether but will die as soon at it burns it off

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Long Cold Crank / Hot No Start

I have a early 99 f250 super duty 7.3l and it's giving me fits. about a month ago the truck started to do a hot no start. drove truck for about a hour. Shut it off and half hour later no start. Let it sit over night and would start with long crank.

Changed CPS no change. Pulled tuner and set back to stock. No change.
Changed fuel filter, no change.

After reading forums changed IPR and truck started and ran great. About a week ago back to the same problem. Battery's are about 2 months old. Oil change and oil filter a month ago.

Checked the hpop reservoir and its 1/2 from the top.
Checked fuel bowl and it has fuel. no sign of oil in it.
Drained bowl and watch bowl fill back up. seems to fill quickly.
Pulled passside valve cover to check for bad orings while cranking.

Every thing seems fine. have not done driver side yet. used FORSCAN and ran buzzed test on injectors and they all buzzed what seems to be about the same. ran test couple of times to make sure. this morning I ran a live scan while cranking and this is what I got right before it started. ICP 660.6psi, IPR 64.84% and RPMs 227. took 8.86 seconds to start. after work scaned again for hot no start and this what I got. ICP 292.9psi, IPR 55.86%. and RPMS 203. unplug ICP and no change. still will not start. one thing I did notice when plugging ICP back in I looked down in side at the pins and can see what seems to be bubbling around one of the pins. the pig tail has just the slights sign of oil.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 - No Start / No Sound When Crank The Key

I have an electrical problem on my 2003 f250 7.3 diesel. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't (mostly doesn't). I have two new batteries in it and have cleaned the grounds at the batteries and at the engine. When I go to start the truck all the lights in the dashboard work and it dings at me but when i crank the key nothing. I wanted to see if i was getting power to the starter and when I put my multi-meter down on the ignition wire on the starter and put my ground lead on the chassis bolt it starts every time.....I'm thinking this should not happen?? Is that a bad ground or a short or something else?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - No Codes - Crank But No Start?

I purchased this unit, non running, was told the HPOP was bad, after going through the unit top to bottom, Im stumped, below is a list of items serviced and or replaced with OEM parts.

0. changed oil and oil filter
1. Terminator 500 Hpop
2. New ICP
3. New HPOP lines.
4. New starter and solenoid
5. Serviced Turbo (rebuilt with new parts and WW wheel)
6. Serviced Injectors (shimmed) all test good.
7. new pass and driver harness, UVHC replaced, glow plugs replaced.
8. new heavy duty GPR
9. Tested IDM no issues.
10. Hutch mod on tank (re-circulator was stopped up) deleted it, added inline filter.
11. serviced fuel bowl with new parts, upgraded parts on fuel bowl new blow off valve, new drain valve, tested heater all good no blown fuses.
12 replaced faulty fuel pump

Might be leaving something out of this list, the truck has run but only for very short periods of time, (hence the dropping of the fuel tank)

fuel pressure at 70 psi, some white smoke, connected to on board computer, checked every conceivable possibility No DTC codes, my gut tells me it has to be fuel related but at this point I just have run out of things to check.

I have tested everything with a fluke multimeter, including the IDM and all the circuits to the 42 as well as all the way to the injectors and glow plugs and find nothing wrong all tests yield valid readings,

There may be other information available but my after market scanner does not show any issue, KOEO buzz test results good.

The three times I have had this unit running it was dumping lots of white smoke, however after the last round of dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump the white smoke has dropped to a minimum, but cannot get the truck to run, cranks, wants to start, almost starts, got it up to 800 RPM last try but just will not go beyond that point.

I cannot find anything wrong, must be something I am either missing or its something my cheap scanner can't pick up on.

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