Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
View 8 RepliesEver since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
View 1 RepliesI drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
View 14 RepliesPlugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
I was going to order a ECT gauge and was wondering where to mount the sensor. I have already used the port under the T-stat for the coolant filter. The gauge sensor is a 1/8 NPT. Would the block drains be a good location, or is there another location that will work.
I know the coolant filter housing has a port, but I would prefer the sensor be on the motor.
Truck has an SCT tune from Innovative Diesel.
View 6 RepliesI notice my trans temp gets really hot fast. For instance just moving my trailer from front of my house to side yard makes temp go to 250. Without any load and driving a couple miles it does the same thing. It's been doing it since I installed the trans temp gauge just trying to figure out what's up.
View 14 RepliesI've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
View 8 RepliesDoes the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
View 11 RepliesNoticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.
View 12 RepliesFor some reason my OH display decided to show 140 deg F when its 40 deg F outside. Continues to show 140 all the time now regardless of out side temp. In case its the related outside temp sensor sending unit, where it is exactly on an 02. Unless someone has solution may try changing that out to see if that is the problem?
View 14 Replies I wanted to specifically ask about the block heater though. Since I bought this truck I never was able to start the truck without plugging it in. Now that it's not running I'm thinking much more about the block heater.
Is 56 too low for this old truck to start? What temp should a block heater have the oil temp as seen by AE be?
I live in the southwest so it's not very cold here. plugging in the heater was even required in the summer unless the truck had been running. What kinds of engine trouble would require being plugged in in warm conditions?
I will start off with saying I am posting this for my dad. His truck is a 1999 F350 crew cab DRW 4x4 auto 7.3 with about 189K miles on it. He is leaving wednesday on a cross country road trip pulling a 40FT 5th wheel (no idea the weight but the thing is huge). He has glowshift gauges installed, one of which is the trans temp gauge. I believe the transmissions on these are 4R100, but I am not positive about that, but I'm sure many people here will know. He just told me that he had the mechanic he goes to replace the pan gasket on the transmission because it leaked quite a bit, just as a precaution. He also had them replace the brake booster as it was leaking inside by the brake pedal. When he got it back, he said he was driving it, and the temperature started going up to I believe 220 degrees not pulling anything. He said since he installed the gauges it has been between 180-190, and it jumped to 220.
What this could be. I have read that the TFT sensor can cause this issue, but it would throw a code and possibly go into limp mode. He has no check engine light and it was driving just fine. So the temperature is just all of a sudden high. Fluid level is fine, was checked after about an hour of driving, is red, and doesn't smell bad. I am suspecting the temperature isn't actually hotter, so there is another issue. It's only a big deal now because in a few days he will be dragging a huge 5th wheel behind him.
Last year, we towed some pile of crap 5th wheel down to our city for somebody with his truck, and we had to pull over halfway back because it started to smell like something burning. We think it was the trailer, as the brakes were questionable on them. When we got it to the people we were delivering it to, when we left, it wouldn't shift passed 2nd gear. He only lived a few miles from there, so he drove it home, parked it, then went out the next day and it was fine. He had the fluid flushed later and that issue hasn't come back since. No other work was performed on it since the pan gasket a few days ago. I am not sure if they are related being a year apart, but figured I'd mention it anyways.
I've been searching for a while now but have not found an exact match to my problem.
So, Yesterday I was pulling a large load home (15K lbs) over flat land/small rolling hills and I experienced a coolant temp spike. And I am trying to figure out what caused it. I was traveling 65 mph about 2k rpm and 20lbs of boost, I was motioning the ECT, EOT, TFT, and Fan Speed via my scanguage and 99% of the time the ECT was in the 209-220 range, once it got up to 220 the fan would come on and the ECT would drop to 209 ish pretty quickly.
However, twice the ECT shot up from 215 ish to 240 within seconds then the dash indicator said check coolant temp then the fan came on and cooled it down to 200 within seconds, I did lose about 1/2 gal of coolant. So today I'm going to get a new degas cap (still OEM original) and continue to monitor the situation.
My EOT ECT delta has been a constant 10-13 degrees for the 3 years i've been monitoring it so i believe my oil cooler is still functions within spec and all my cold soak temps are within a degree or two for various ambient temps (20 -80) so all my sensors should be good.
Also, tonight I'm going to pull the EGR valve and check if there is any coolant in the intake, but if there is not, where should I start looking and what should I start worrying about e.g. head gaskets?
This is the only 6.0 I have owned. My tranny temp (with the Torque Pro) is pretty much always the same as my ECT. My ECT will move, and less than 2 seconds later, the tranny will move to the same temp. Is this normal? I was expecting lower tranny temps, but maybe it should be the same because of sharing the radiator.
View 11 RepliesLately my engine/coolant temp gauge has been screwing with me. It is either been almost at 190* or dead 90-100*
It seems to go up when in the lower RPM range (idle-2000) and goes down when in the higher range (4000-redline I suppose).
I stayed at or above 4000rpm on my way home from work for 3-4 minutes and it was almost at 90*...went to 5000 for 2 minutes, same thing. I shifted to 6th and it rushes to 190*.
So is my sensor bad or what?
I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
View 7 RepliesThe truck has been just terrific, mostly used for towing our travel trailer. Earlier this year i developed a leak and lost 3 quarts of oil before I caught it. I would think with 15 quarts in her this shouldn't have been too big a deal. However, I am now experiencing 10-15 degree swings between ECT and EOT. Before I give the particulars, yes, I have had three new thermostats, two Ford and one brand X.
Anyway, coolant temps are 184-200 depending upon load, terrain, etc. At the same time, oil temps run 205-230. There is no oil cooler to get plugged up. She's got 120K on the clock, doesn't burn oil, no disappearing coolant. I am concerned about blowing a head gasket or other serious damage at these temps, but don't have a clue where to start? Yes, the fan does come on, but still this seems plenty hot.
Well I just completed a complete refresh of the fuel system. New injectors, IDM , UVC and UVCH, and glow plugs. (All Ford Parts)
I had my AE software running on the last drive and noticed the oil temp is quite erratic. The odd thing was, when I left off the pedal, it would drop 100 degrees. Once I got back into the fuel, the temp came right back up where I thought it should be (140-160) puling a 7000# Enclosed 8.5wide car trailer, in 30 degree weather.
The truck ran OK but seemed down slightly on power. I know the oil temp affects SOI timing, but what degree and how often does it sample, to make timing changes? I found a new one at an Oreillys and put it in, but no change. Wires do not seem to change OHM reading when wiggling them.
I will post pics from recording as soon as my kid brings my laptop back.
I've dealt with this issue many times before but this time I am at the last straw. I cannot deal with squealing brakes!! I have tried OEM, napa brand, auto zone and everything is fine for about a month into it and than they start to squeal. I always use the high temp ceramic brake lube on all brake parts. I have cut rotors, changed rotors, changed pads, prayed to the brake gods but nothing has worked. I was curious to see what everyone is using out there and maybe there is one brand that everyone is choosing over the others out there and having great result.
View 9 RepliesBought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
View 8 Replies