Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Coolant Started Rushing And Boiling Out Of Top Of Reservoir
Jul 2, 2015
Today on a little road trip about 250 miles everything was going well then towards the end i was about to arrive when the temp gauge rose about a quarter inch from where it normally runs and i stopped at a gas station and all my coolant started rushing and boiling out of the top of my reservoir, I let the truck cool down and removed the cap and i lost all the coolant in the reservoir i bought two jugs and filled it back up and fired her up and the temp is back to normal and was not leaking from anywhere.
Hit the road again for the rest of the roughly 35 miles of the trip to my camp no smoking or lack of power then through a little sand and mud and she stayed cool. I was towing a small single axle utility trailer with a atv and was going 65-70 whole way. Truck has never had a problem with anything in the year and a half i have had it. Just hit 250k. What could this have been? Its holding all the coolant its been in there for a couple hours now without leaking. Thermostat maybe stuck for a second? Or a air bubble?
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Long story short, I got a 2001.5 1.8t M5 Passat with 63k miles 2 weeks ago.
This weekend I was driving around and pulled into the driveway and noticed the coolant was boiling in the coolant reservoir. It also looked like there was some oil in the reservoir. Take it to the shop, turns out that the plastic impeller on the water pump broke at 64k miles. This is wierd because the car never actually overheated. The mechanic doesn't think that the head gasket is blown or i have a cracked/warped head because the car still runs fine. He suggests I replace the water pump, timing belt, coolant reservoir, thermostat and obviously flush the coolant. I go ahead with the repair since its almost time for the TB anyway.
After bending over and taking it from the shop on a timing belt and water pump repair, I think I am all good. Today I open everything up after a few days of driving around just to check up on stuff. I open the coolant reservoir and there is telltale signs of oil in the coolant. Now i think this was an issue before the water pump went. Searching the archives I see that the oil cooler is a common failure. This could have also contributed to the failure of the water pump and maybe the thermostat, I don't know.
So instead of bending over for the mechanic for a second time in a week , I think I'm going to replace the oil cooler and flush the coolant system again and change the oil myself. Poked around looking at the oil cooler and it seems as if there is the slightest sign of an oil leak on the outside, which could mean there is a leak inside. I don't have compressed air so I'm not sure how I can test the oil cooler for leaks.
I am thinking i need:
-Oil cooler (some suggest S4, some suggest TDI one?)
-Oil cooler gasket
-Feed and return lines
-Hose clamps
-g12 coolant
-Oil filter
-Synthetic oil
Should I replace the upper and lower radiator hoses while I've got the coolant out? What else should I replace while the coolant is out. I see people suggest flushing the system several times. Should i use G12 everytime or can I just use water to flush until its clean and fill with G12?
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been working on my passat for the last year oil cooler went bad and also my CCM fried. Anyways got the car running good or so i thought drove the car up the road today and my coolant sounds like it's boiling inside the reservoir.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Celica I think I may have overheating problems every time i stop after driving a little while i can hear a boiling noise from where you put your coolant in and when i open it there is steam coming from the black hose that goes in it.
The funny thing is when i am driving the temperature gauge stays at 1/2 way and never passes it, also sometimes when i stop green and a bit clear liquid leaks on the ground on the side where the battery is.
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When the car has been running awhile the coolant reservior and radiator make a boiling sound. It really only does it when it's been at idle for a bit. Radiator is full. Fan doesn't seem to come on after it has been running awhile but does when you turn on air. At what temp should it come on? The temp gauge never goes above the middle point so it stays in normal range, even when the tank are radiator are gurgling.
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2000 Chrysler 300M with 142K miles. Was a very reliable car until recently.
Problem began with boiling coolant in the reservoir tank. Then began to lose coolant at a high rate. I tried stop leak products and replaced the coolant frequently for a couple months. Some of it kind of worked, but the problem always returned. The car drives fine for about 10 highway miles then begins to steam out from under the hood on the passenger side. It gets about half way up the temp gauge, but does not really overheat. I usually stop when it steams out, let it cool, replace the antifreeze, then do it all over again. I've also tried a bunch of other things too, e.g., radiator flush. None of it worked.
The mechanic wants to replace the radiator. Says the system does not have pressure so there's no real way to determine if there are leaks in the engine. But he does know that the radiator is no good. I'm okay to replace radiator, but don't want to do it just to find out ten minutes later that I have a blown head gasket, which I would opt not to fix. I have read the tell tale signs of a blown head gasket, such as coolant in the oil, but there is none. My exhaust is white, but it's 5 degrees outside and it doesn't look whiter. I have seen some coolant on the ground at times.
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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I lost a hose in the driver side front wheel well this morning while pulling RV to a campground. By the time I got there and got the RV disconnected, I lost all power steering. I reconnected the hose using a zip tie and have a friend bringing me fluid to refill reservoir.
Is my pump toast now? Can I refill the reservoir and prime the lines and be good to go?
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I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it.
I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
Any tips or tricks?
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I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it. I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
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2.7 Power Steering Fluid boiling/foaming leaking out a reservoir cap!
1) Recently had Timing Belt/Water Pump and spark plugs/wires replaced.
2) Issue started immediately after.
3) Removed most of old PS fluid, cleaned out reservoir w/brake cleaner. NOTE: nothing appeared to be clogging reservoir. Refilled with new PS fluid. Repeated these steps a second time. This appeared to immediately resolve the issues for several weeks.
4) Now the power steering is getting rough and noisy again. Also, the PS reservoir is leaking out of the cap worse than before. It looks like the fluid may be "boiling", but it is definitely foaming up pretty badly.
What my issue(s) may be?
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have a f550 with a hpop res leak on the backside and wonder if this is in fact under any pressure when functioning since it has o rings on it as well.
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I did not run the truck for 5 months and the engine will not crank. I charged the batteries but when I turn the key nothing happen, I hear the glow plug system going but nothing else, starter does not click at all.
One thing that scares me is that there is no coolant left in the reservoir and I am scared that it went in the engine. I did have to add coolant last summer.
How can I first test the starter? Can I turn the engine by hand? If I push the truck, does the engine turn and can I tow it without damaging the engine if it is hydrolocked?
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Have been working on military diesels for years. I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0. I am currently waiting for a new oil cooler as I have oil coming from my coolant reservoir and no coolant in my crank. My question is I have been having my engine light coming on and off intermittently since deleting my EGR cooler.
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Traveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
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I have a 99 Ford F-150 Lariat. I am smelling oil in my coolant reservoir. I have looked all over the engine and do not see any leaks. I do not see any oil on the ground. The truck does not overheat so I don't know how it is getting in. My engine runs great. What can be causing this problem?
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I'm new to the diesel scene and I'm having trouble here i just replaced the head gaskets and did the head studs, also the EGR delete with oil cooler done all by me at home because I'm low on cash and the truck was pouring coolant through the turbo before due to overheating and bad egr and blown head gaskets i didn't have the heads checked before i installed them because I'm broke now and I need my truck but it wont start now and continues to spit and smoke coolant out the reservoir.
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I bought a 2006 E350 with a 6.0L diesel. Has some issues I hope to work through, or failing that I'll ditch the thing and learn a lesson.
The pressurized coolant reservoir has a crack/leak in it. Is it wise to only replace it, or should I look for a root cause? The temp gauge does not go past 50% pulling hard up a mountain pass.
This was a fleet vehicle that was pretty much abandoned. There is a chance the reservoir was cannibalized for another rig and had the bad part thrown there but I'll never know.
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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Ok I bought a 2006 Ford F350 with 6.0 after driving for about 3 weeks I noticed a little bit of coolant was disappearing out of reservoir. So yesterday I was driving with a load Reservoir overflows replace coolant with one gallon of coolant and finish trip with no issues. I started truck today and it will not stop smoking it is also not overheating after hearing about head gaskets. I'm hoping it might be EGR cooler white smoke smells like raw diesel fuel. What to do?
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