I keep getting my SES light coming on in the morning when my engine is cold. I'm getting code p0603 and p1316. I was told the first one is just from using my tuner. The second code is the injector driver module, just trying to figure out what is causing it to throw the SES light only when cold.
View 6 RepliesWhat do I do? Do I need a new IDM?
View 3 RepliesWife put fuel in my truck drove it home and as soon as I started it back up it was running rough as hell. When I got to the freeway it got real rough at 1500 rpms in overdrive. If I bring it up over 2000rpm it's better but still feels rough. When I got off work and started it up I got the p1316 code.
I did some research tested plugs on the valve covers a few pins were over 5ohms so pulled the valve covers did the 50cent mod to shimm the under valve cover wiring harness. All pins are around 3.5 ohms. It did not fix the problem.
I then dropped the tank thinking maybe the pick up was gunked up. I've read all the horror stories about the delamination in Ford tanks. Good news is that I have a plastic fuel tank. Bad news is the screens though dirty weren't dirty enough to cause my problems. Where should I go from here?
I have a 03 7.3 runs like crap. buzz test says cyl 2 and 4 have high to low side open. the only code that's hard is p1316. it also says cyl 1-3-4 fail balance test but not always some times only 2 fail.... I ohm tested injectors all the way to the idm and all are between 3.1 and 4.2 ish. So I guess I can rule out wiring. it smokes pretty bad if I rev it. it was running good till I parked it for 2 days. I did put HSS in oil 2 weeks ago to try clean out little rough acceleration. I did find my ipr nut fell off and spacer ipr was just floating around on the shaft I put that back together it was laying there.
View 8 RepliesHere's the story. Truck has showed no signs of rough running. Wife drives truck around town. Truck up to temperature and doing fine on a 90 degree day. Stops at red light. Makes left turn engine light comes on truck seems to be running on 4 cylinders. Pulls over light goes off engine idles perfect. Pulls back on road light on no power. Gets truck to a local friends house lets it sit til I get off work.
I check for codes get p1316. Drive truck toward my house no problems for 4-5 miles then does the above with me. Limp it home. I know it is pointing at a wire problem to injectors and or IDM. Did a buzz test passed fine. Plan on pulling valve covers and looking for the usuall things. Any thing I am missing? What will a kOEO test tell me? Should I run one? How common is IDM to go out? One last thing just put a rebuilt transmission in it 3 days ago may be unrelated it seems to be doing fine.
2003 f-350 cc 7.3.
Just a heads up when it comes to this code. Today at work I was working on a 2000 f350 that the driver neglected on telling me he had a CEL on and truck was kind of sluggish (drivers are idiots they cant tell the difference) but no miss or any sign of problem except the CEL (he had electrical tape on the cluster. Well I put my AE to see the vitals and immediately code p1316, so I went to do a buzz test revealing that cylinder 1,3,5,7,6 were short to open circuit (forgot the codes) but they all sounded healthy. My next step since it was a quick and easy to do was to check the passenger side uvch to see for burnt pins and what not but everything checked out.
Checked the driver side #6 cyl for the same problem bit a no go. I ohm tested the injectors all of them checked out, wires all the way to the idm checked out so at this point I was in my atemp to see what the hell was going on I decided to install my obs idm on, and guess what happened next it worked immediately the sel did not come up and when I test drove it, my god it felt like a new truck.
Just a side note the idm, had no sign of water damage, and like mentioned to the untrained person most would not tell the difference on how it ran. To anybody that has checked and can't find the problem make sure you really and I mean really check your IDM really good.
I'm running a 2000 f250 7.3. The truck has been stumbling for the last two years intermittently. I did the 50 cent mod last fall to the uvch's. Changed CPS, idm, air flow sensor. This last week it finally threw the p1316 code so I have something to go off of. Trucks falling on its face so I parked it. Tore it down last night. Ohm tested all the injectors last night cold and all read around 3ohms. Tested the uvch's and continuity looks good on both sides. Tested them through the valve cover seal, tested fine. Tested them through the first harness and fine. All I have left to check is all the way to the idm. Still no luck finding the problem.
View 9 RepliesWell, truck is throwing me for a new loop the day I pick it up from the body shop (crazy, right?). I started out driving it and had a blue haze - I figured it had some air left in the system from doing my injectors so I left it and it cleared up after about 20 miles. I noticed that my SES light came on while idling at a stoplight, but went off when I took off. Figured it was a fluke and kept on getting on.
Well, next light it does the same thing - idle the light is on, take off the light is off. Reading the code yields P1316 - so I pull over and running a buzz test to fetch the IDM codes. Guess what? No codes. All sounded fine, so this is where I got really confused as I'm getting huge mixed signals from this truck suddenly.
As I got to watching my gauges, I noticed that I was idling around 10.8 IPRDC and 530-560 ICP, and when I would get about 16-18 IPRDC the code would go away. Did a near-WOT run when getting on interstate as a test to see how it'd do, and saw IPRDC get up to 98% - the highest I have EVER seen it get on this truck (no idea if it is related or not). I have a log from moving around the lot that I will try and upload soon.
I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
If the fuel relief valve is stuck open would it possibly throw a P1316 code?
View 4 RepliesRecently I have had many problems with my 2000 7.3l .... The one I cant get rid of is the p1316 code. I have changed out the uvc harness and gasket with new ones, then removed valve cover's to double check connections again and they are fine. I am getting white smoke and the truck misses. I do not have a advanced reader for the codes just using my edge programmer. I have also disconnected the battery and cleared the code but it comes right back.
View 14 RepliesStarted my truck yesterday and drove about 1/4 of mile and all of a sudden I lost all power but was lucky enough to creep back home. Had a friend put it on a scanner and it spit out P1280 and P1316 codes. My truck will start and idle rough but has no throttle response and no power. I changed out the CPS and ICP and the problem still exists. I got an infrared thermometer and checked the heat coming off each manifold and the driver side was reading about 200 while the passenger side was reading about 75 while at idle. Pulled valve pan cover off the passenger side to check and see if the harness came loose and everything looked fine. So my question is do you think this could lead to a bad IDM?
View 9 RepliesI've been battling this truck for over a month now and starting to go a little crazy, It's a 2001 f350 7.3L, with a "used" 7.3L engine from a 1997. Transferred all the necessary parts to make it happen. Keep getting the evil p1316 idm codes detected coming back upon start up. Anywhere between 5-30seconds after starting the left bank dies. I've gone threw and replaced the IDM with a reman unit. New valve cover gaskets (with new harness). even went the extra mile and put in a new power wire (for the driver side) running directly from the new valve cover into the IDM bypassing a connector above the left valve cover. All injectors are checking out around 3ohms. With glow plugs all around 1-2ohms. What's interesting about this is, I can disable any one of the injectors on the left bank (doesn't matter which one) and the engine runs great considering it's down on one cylinder. But when I hook up that last injector it will kill the whole left bank again.
View 13 RepliesWell, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
2003 F350 7.3L 164k miles. Got towed in with hard to start cold complaint.
Hooked it up to the Snap On Verus Pro scan tool and we get up to 3000 psi on the ICP cranking, IPR value seems within spec, we have rpms over 100 on tool, pulse width within spec, computer voltage above 10v while cranking, verified output of glow plug module (California) and glow plugs get voltage for approx 50 seconds @ 80 degrees farenheit, glow plugs all read 0 ohms resistance.
injectors do NOT sound the same during buzz test.
Vehicle takes EXCESSIVE cranking cold to eventually get it started. LOTS of cranking. Just had to replace starter and a battery because driver burned em out. It feels like the vehicle shakes when it gets running. Black smoke when revving cold. Sometimes white smoke while cranking.
Once the engine has been warmed up, it starts perfectly every time.
I have spent two days in the engine bay looking for chaffed wires and doing diag and my current diagnosis is bad injectors. I feel there COULD also be high pressure oil leak, or a mechanical issue such as low compression. No compression guage yet for this truck. We have the ICP and IPR fittings to do a shop air test. Recently did a 6.0L and went thru everything and eventually diagnosed it as bad HPOP. LOW ICP pressure.
I noticed two of the cylinders were at maybe 8% Perdel on the data. Seems too high. Also, it "passed" the KOER self test and "passed" the injector buzz test with no codes after, but the audible sound of injectors didn't "seem" right to me, but I am new to these engines.
Ok I have a p0197 engine oil sensor low.. Temperature is cold right now and truck was not plugged in.. Truck surges when started unless I give some steady throttle and oil warms up. Also service engine soon light comes on.. Oil change soon but been a while.
View 9 RepliesWhat causes elevated engine idle when cold or initial startup? Asking another way, what would cause it not to have the elevated idle on start up?
View 14 RepliesOn my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
View 2 RepliesI was on the way back from the weekend trip and got a service engine soon light. I didn't notice any lack of power, rough idle or hard starting cold or hot. So we pushed on home. I checked the codes and it is the P1211.
Doing some research it seems the ICP is not as expected so I hooked up my phone with the Torque app and the IPR and ICP seem to be close to normal at idle and running. I din't see any high IPR %.
At idle the IPR was around 15.5 cold and 10.1 after a short run to the store and back when it warmed up a bit. ICP was around 690-720 cold and 470-490 when i got back.
Does that seem like normal readings? I cleared the codes and the CEL comes back on right away after starting the truck. I do have a TS performance chip that I will take out and see if that could be causing any problems. What else should I be looking into?
I have a 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L. We bought it in February of last year with 81,000 miles on it, and it has 111,000 miles on it now.
First problem:
It threw a code today: P0683 indicating a communication issue between the Glow Plug Control Module and PCM Communication Circuit. Other than the code, the truck isn't doing anything out of the ordinary today. Drove it about 40 miles, up to 80 MPH, problem three below did show it's head once, but other than that it ran great.
Second problem:
Ever since we've owned the vehicle it has done a strange surging/near-stalling thing (for lack of a better word) when it's started up. It only does it occasionally, and the problem seems to appear, and then go away for several weeks or months only to reappear. Here's how it goes:
- Start truck
- After starting the truck immediately begins to surge (rev?) and then nearly stall.
- It will do this over and over, about one surge/near-stall cycle per second, until I tap the accelerator, at which point it stops immediately. So far it has never stopped on it's own, but has always stopped with a tap of the accelerator.
Up until recently I chalked this up to "huh, that's weird" since the truck has otherwise run fine.
Third Problem:
Every once in a while the truck will hiccup while it's up to speed. It only seems to do it at highway speeds, typically between 55-70, and the hiccup typically only occurs once.
The first time I distinctly remember it happening was right after I had replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor (approximately 5-6 weeks ago).
While digging around online I found one other guy say his truck started doing the same thing after replacing the CMP in his F250 with the same little plastic gray one I used. So that problem might be caused by that part.
My Thoughts:
It seems like the run-away favorite for fixing problem one is to replace the GPCM. I've dug through a couple hours of forums this afternoon/evening, and it looks to me like the GPCM is the culprit the vast majority of the time when code P0683 comes up.
I'm thinking problem 2 might be an ICP issue. I can't find any previous forums anywhere that describe the exact issue I'm having - or really anything very close. Maybe it's out there, but I couldn't find it. So I'm really grasping at straws.
Problem 3 could either be related to the ICP (if problem 2 is an ICP problem) or it could be due to the new CMP I installed (the cheap gray plastic one from Autozone). It's possible the hiccup has been around longer than I think. Half the time when it happens (or does it?) I can't decide if it was a hiccup or a bump on the road I didn't see. I am sure it's happening at times, but there are other times I'm not sure if it was a hiccup or a bump I just didn't see. So I think it's possible it's been going on longer than I realize, and I noticed it that first time because I had JUST been under the hood and pretty finely attuned to how the truck was running as a result.
I'm about to hitch my 35' camper to this truck and haul it a few hours and I'm not feeling real confident right now. Problem 1 hit today, problem 2 is more prevalent than every right now, and problem 3 has been hiccupping for 5 or 6 weeks. I'd like to get at least problems 1 and 3 sorted out before hauling 8,000 lbs if possible.
I have 2003 f250 7.3 automatic 181,000 miles completely stock. Never had chip,tuner or anything on it. I am second owner and got it when it had 70,000 miles on it. Ok here we go I live on top of a mountain and soon as i start up the mountain or any steep hill, or pull or tow something my service engine light pops on. First time it came on I took it to diesel shop they hooked it up to scanner and said it was code p1211 said icp sensor was bad so they put new one on. Couple days later light started popping back on so i decided to order a auto ingenuity after doing some research.
Hooked up to truck started up mountain while scanning at wot light pops on code p1211 and think it was live data I remember seeing icp pressure at 1922 and duty cycle at 63% i was trying to drive and read it at same time and my lap top went dead. What does this reading mean 1922 pressure/ at 63% cycle done little research but dont really understand. Year and half ago replaced all orings on all injectors, new rebuilt hpop pump. New ipr valve, glow plugs, past month 2 different icp sensor new,and new ipr valve new pig tails on both and light still popping on.