Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Code P1393 - Glow Plugs On Driver Side Are Not Working
Apr 14, 2017
I am having a difficult time trying to track down the root cause of a P1393 code in a 99.5 7.3. The code means all the glow plugs on the driver's side are not working. I don't have any other codes related to the glow plug system present in my computer.
I've replaced:
1)The Glow Plug Relay (I have the CA version with the shunt)
2)Valve cover gaskets and wire harnesses
3)Glow plugs
I've used all OEM product replacements.
Additional testing:
1)Voltage on the glow plug relay posts going to the left and right bank is the same (I think this means the shunt is okay)
2)Disconnecting the wire harness to the valve covers yields 12 volts at all 8 glow plug connections during the glow plug cycle
3)In one of the steps of a troubleshooting document I found, it requires a KOEO On-Demand Self Test. It does not complete and ends with a P0605 code, "Internal CTRL Module ROM Error" using a Snap On Scan tool.
4)Using the Snap On scan tool to run a glow plug test results in "Test has aborted 64 - Abnormal Exit without result".
5)I checked part of the wiring loom and it seemed to be good.
Is there a way to test the wire that goes from the Glow Plug Relay on the driver-side bank to the PCM? I think that either this wire is bad, or a bad PCM.
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How to fix SES P0670?? I understand there's a whole procedure on checking fault.
P0670:GPCM Glow plug control module control line failure. Open/grounded circuit, open/shorted GPCM, failed PCM
But how did you resolve problem? replaced GPCM, found open circuit, short --if so where?-- or replaced with updated harness.
(4C3Z-12B568-AA connector upgrade kit as in picture)???
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I drained my batteries enough that I needed a jump after the last time I was troubleshooting trailer wiring, since I keyed on a bunch of times. What fuse or relay do I need to pull out next time? I'm thinking of pulling fuse 302, HFCM relay (or fuse 7 in the disto box under hood) to disable the fuel pump, but what fuse or relay is for the glow plugs?
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How long do the glow plugs stay on during a cold start? Do the glow plugs stay on during the first few minutes of running?
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I've recently gone through and replaced all 8 of my '06 6.0's glow plugs as the check engine light has successively come on (I first did #3 about a year ago, then #5 seven months ago, #1 and #7 two months ago, and #2, #4, #6, #8 about two weeks, did all 4 on the drive side even the code was only for #6). A light came up for #1 again today, so I'm wondering would this be symptoms of failed glow plug control module? Also, can a failed module cause the glow plugs to fail prematurely? Haven't had a chance to ohm the plug yet.
The truck has also has been hard to start when cold and had a pretty bad engine flutter the past 8 months when cold at medium range rpms in the upper gears (1500-2000 rpms in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear and accelerating like a grandma). I don't know if it could be glow plug related, or a bigger issue (I did the EGR/Oil cooler myself about a year ago as well and things ran good until the winter hit). If I plugged the truck in over night over the winter, the flutter was not nearly as bad, but now it's summer and it's still not liking the cold take offs.
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I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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I'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
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Well I just "did" the glow plugs on my recently acquired 99 7.3 and while 7 came out with no problem, one of them gave me more resistance when turning than expected and then "snap". Now here is the interesting part. What actually came out is the threaded top portion of the outer wall, while the rest of the outer wall and the electrode are still in the block. I have done a lot of searching and it seems that usually the electrode detaches from the outer casing and the entire outer casing comes out with only the electrode or part of the electrode stuck in the shaft (usually due to carbon buildup or swollen tip). In this case though, the outer wall of the plug sheared in two, which seems to imply that the outer wall itself is what is stuck in the shaft and not the electrode. The attached picture hopefully explains what I am trying to say.
I can easily latch on to the end of the electrode with some vice grips, but even if I managed to get that out, I would still have the outer wall of the plug in the hole. At the moment I just screwed the threaded part back in to keep the everything from blowing out so I could crank the truck. It cranked right up and seems to run fine. My inclination is to just leave it as is and hope that 7 good glow plugs will do the job, as I have some nightmares about making things worse in trying to make them better. Any chance of the electrode falling into the cylinder if this much of the outer case is still there? How to remove stuck electrodes, etc. but none on a stuck outer casing?
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Is there a different battery box or better battery holder for the driver side without all the air filter housing stuff. I had an AFE Big boost filter and when I modified the stock battery box it still had the bottom section of the air filter compartment well after about 4-5 years I was cleaning the filter today and there was a hole rubbed in the filter from moving around and the pre filter is getting holes wore through it. So I cut the air box part off so now the filter will sit on the fiberglass stuff on the fender well. I ordered a couple of the new Blue Donaldsons from RiffRaff to replace the Big Boost filter. The modified filter box looks kinda like a hack job because all I had was a cut off wheel and the plastic got hot and now I have melted buggers all over it. I thought I saw somethin a long time ago about a battery holder out of a van that was just the bottom plate but can't find it anywhere now.
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Its a 2001 E450 PSD. glow plugs not coming on at all.
should I be checking an engine temp sensor?
I don't have a wiring diagram so I am going in somewhat blind. ]
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My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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