Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Code B1230 - Driver Safety Belt Retractor Low Or High Resistance On Squib
Apr 14, 2017
So I am trying to learn how to use the forscan program. I find that it detected an open circut for th deleted intake heater, which I expected. It also found :
===ECS DTC B1230===
Code: B1230 - Driver Safety belt Retractor Low or High Resistance on Squib
Module: Electronic Crash Sensor
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Driver Safety belt Retractor Low or High Resistance on Squib
So that answers the the question about the intermittent airbag/ seat-belt lamp. How to solve this problem? BTW- This is a E350 SD Van ....
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I had a p1211 code when I first got Torque Pro hooked up. I figured it was just because I'd done a couple WOT runs and the HPOP just can't quite keep up with the injectors. I was told this might happen when I ordered the injectors from Gear head. I also noticed that my ICP peaked at around 3600 during one of these runs. I don't have it logged, but I'm certain it was up that high.
The code hasn't returned, but I haven't been running it too hard either. I don't quite know what to make of the ICPs actually being that high. From looking at a bunch of Rich's graphs his doesn't really get past 2800 or 2900. Is this an incorrect reading? Do I need to worry about anything?
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I have the 4r100 transmission how do I bypass the safety switch? Also what are your thoughts on starting the engine with the transmission out? I know to bolt the spacer plate to the engine.
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So I got an IDM code and then after running AE buzz test got a P1273 (#3 cylinder high low open).
Ohm'd out the 42 Pin - got 3 across the board. Only test 42 pin from valve cover to injectors.
Double checked UVHC
Swapped solenionds
Swapped injectors
Did ford wiggle test.
Ran Injector buzz between all those steps and still get P1273.
What's the next step? Ohm from IDM to 42pin? May actually be a bad IDM?
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Today I just installed a brand new IDM and after running the Injector Buzz Test test, I received codes: P1298 Injector Drive Module Failure, P1293 Injector High Side Open - Bank 1, and P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2. How a new IDM could throw these codes?
When running the KOEO test I received codes P0605 Injector Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error, P1298, P1293, & P1294.
My engine is still missing but the engine is running a heck of a lot better after replacing the IDM and injector 8 has a rotational velocity of about 3%
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Getting DTC Code P1271 - #1 Injector High -> Low Side Open.
The code tends to show up more during cold weather start up. Using AE-AutoEngenuity KOEO - Buzz Test returns the P1271 error
Troubleshooting performed:
- 42-Pin Connector @ Driver Side Valve Cover
- 9-pin VCH on Passenger side
- IDM Module under driver side wheel well
- All of these are testing within the 2.8 - 3.2 Ohm range
- (Used the GB Reman. Tech Bulletin 103) - TB 103: 1994-03 Ford 7.3L IDM Replacement & Diagnostics)
I was going to replace the solenoid, however, with the above readings I'm not convinced it's the solenoid. Before I tear into the valve covers I was looking for some add'l thoughts from the forum. Could it be the IDM ?....
Any add'l checks to perform using AE, or the IDM, other than replacing IDM.
01 Platinum 7.3 - BTS - PHP Hydra Tunes - 4" FloPro - Riff RaffWheel - Redhead Steering - Driven Diesel Hutch/Harpoon - Kenwood DVD w/ back up- 35"s - GloPro EGT/Pyro/Boost/Trans, Scan Gauge II, AE bundle
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I am having a difficult time trying to track down the root cause of a P1393 code in a 99.5 7.3. The code means all the glow plugs on the driver's side are not working. I don't have any other codes related to the glow plug system present in my computer.
I've replaced:
1)The Glow Plug Relay (I have the CA version with the shunt)
2)Valve cover gaskets and wire harnesses
3)Glow plugs
I've used all OEM product replacements.
Additional testing:
1)Voltage on the glow plug relay posts going to the left and right bank is the same (I think this means the shunt is okay)
2)Disconnecting the wire harness to the valve covers yields 12 volts at all 8 glow plug connections during the glow plug cycle
3)In one of the steps of a troubleshooting document I found, it requires a KOEO On-Demand Self Test. It does not complete and ends with a P0605 code, "Internal CTRL Module ROM Error" using a Snap On Scan tool.
4)Using the Snap On scan tool to run a glow plug test results in "Test has aborted 64 - Abnormal Exit without result".
5)I checked part of the wiring loom and it seemed to be good.
Is there a way to test the wire that goes from the Glow Plug Relay on the driver-side bank to the PCM? I think that either this wire is bad, or a bad PCM.
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I've got a 1271 code and I can't seem to make it go away. Code definition is "High side to Low side open Cyl 1". The truck runs fine, no rough idle, no excessive smoke of any color, just the damn CEL light stays on. I check the UVCH and all the injectors ohm in at 2.7 ohms. I've already done the updated clips under the covers. I run all the buzz tests and KOEO/ KOER tests and all appears OK. My AE won't do a Cyl contribution test. All the injector data shows all 0.00. I know its not that perfect. "high to low open", does that mean I've lost a ground? If so where?
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Having issues with seat belt disconnecting on its own? Ill be driving down the road and it just unbuckles......i figure its got gunk in it so I will and try and clean.... maybe spring is weak.
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Leaving on a 200 mile trip in the morning and when checking the fluids, I found the serpentine belt trying to get off the AC pulley. I've put in on twice and it immediately jumps half way off when starting the engine. How long it's been doing this. Nothing is obviously loose or moved. What is likely causing this?
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Thought I had these bookmarked but not. What is the torque value for the 13 mm bolt , replacing the tensioner.
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About 2 weeks ago i noticed that the serpentine belt started shredding. I noticed it before it was all gone, so i parked it and started ordering parts before i did anything. Since i had to get the radiator hose off, i decided to flush the coolant, change the thermostat and the upper radiator hose to go around the belt. Once the parts arrived, I drained the coolant and did two flushes and tried to change the hoses and thermostat. the Gates hose ended up not being the right hose, in hindsight I should have used the old hose and put it back together.
But I returned the Gates hose and ordered a Motorcraft hose. not thinking, i left the system dry and possibly sitting with water from the previous flush. Three days ago, I got the correct Motorcraft part and did the work on Sunday. since it had been sitting, i decided to run another flush, i noticed a squeaking sound and that the water was coming out a little browner than when i left it. So I ran another two flushes and said to hell with it and put the whole thing back together and filled it with coolant and distilled water.
This morning, the squeaking sound was louder, but temps where fine and coolant level was fine. I drove to work ( about a 10 mile drive) and when i finally stopped, i got a whiff of coolant smell. I noticed coolant behind me and when i lifted the hood, i noticed the reservoir was half empty and coolant dripping down from the center of the block. I can still hear the squeaking, I figure the water pump is on its last leg and decide i need to go home. I walk in to work and let them know I'm gonna take the day off to situate this. Before i leave, i top off the reservoir with a gallon of distilled water and head out.
After a short distance I notice that the squeaking stops, now I'm terrified that the water pump just completely failed. (I've never had one fail on me so I'm not sure what happens when it does) As i drive home, I'm watching all my gauges. none of the temperature gauges spike, everything was normal for the drive home (another 10 miles) I park it and lift the hood and the reservoir is completely full. why is reservoir completely full? why would a leak like that stop? Should i just change the water pump? I don't want to just hope for the best, i do use my excursion to haul the kids from time to time.
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The last week or so I have been having a screeching belt sound driving me insane in my 2003 F-250 7.3. After further investigating I have found out it is coming from my 11 month old GTP38R bearing. It has an aftermarket billet compressor wheel in it and I sold the factory wheel when I installed the Billet wheel. Where to locate a factory Garrett GTP38R wheel? All I can find online are Billet wheels or random off brands. At this point I would even trade my Billet wheel for a factory 38R wheel.
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I was cruising along yesterday and felt the steering pump go out on the highway. Nowhere to pull over and pulling a big horse trailer. Three miles later I finally get to a wide spot to dive into. I look down and the temp gauge is maxed and the oil light is on. Most of the antifreeze boils out when I got the engine shut down. I had no choice but to have a friend bring a new belt and some antifreeze to the rescue. Got it changed and filled back up. Started and drove home fine.
I've got this twisted gut feeling about the whole deal. What kind of damage did I likely do? Things to look for? Did I just kill the longevity of the motor? I've been trying to do things right and treat it well to ensure a reliable truck.
On a side note the belt came apart in ribbons and it was absolutely shredded. The belt appeared to be less than 3 months old. No cracks or tears and a bright white numbers sticker on the back
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I have an Elantra SE 08 and suddenly have an Airbag code: b1361: driver seat belt pretensioner resistant high. How can I check this, I went to scanner, deleted it, but is on again !!
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Problem: Initially thought replacing the rear wheel speed sensor on top of the differential would make the light go away on a 2007 F-150 XLT. What I've done already.
-Replaced the sensor
-Used the IDS ford computer to clear the code
-Test drove it for 30 minutes and the light is still on
-Reset any codes by disconnecting the battery
-I have gone as far as swapping a different ABS module thinking it was the problem, after it was re-programmed the module checked out and it wasn't at fault.
It must be a wire, all the fuses for the ABS system are fine.
Issue or traced all the wires and found a common problem such as a pinched wire or melted wire between the module and the sensor? From what I have been researching this code B1230 .
-bad sensor
-sensor grounding out somewhere
Attempted a multi-meter test today and didn't get very far.
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I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
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I pinpointed a consistent vibration in the rear L & R pillars! Using a rubber mallet on the tires you can hear the recoil springs vibration s and for me, I hear the back center seat retractor recoil spring vibrating! Going address this with the dealership for updated fixes, or I have to fix this myself. I have taken the rear seat apart and welded reinforcement bracket to stabilize the retractor, but the coil spring vibrates.even w the JBL system turn up I can hear the retractor coil spring vibrating distorting the music!
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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My high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
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