Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Clunk Up Front On Right Turn?
Aug 10, 2017
I noticed a clunk a while ago but could never pin point it and today its the worse it has ever been. I did some research on this and everyone is pointing towards sway bar bushings. now if that is the case why wouldn't they just replace the sway bar link? I see some do poly bushings and others regular rubber. What is the best way to go about this? and I also see you need a shop press so I'm lucky I have one.
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I recently purchased a 2001 excursion 7.3 after driving it for a while I have noticed a significant clunk and vibrate in the rear end. I have read a lot of people saying it could be the slip yoke needing lube which I intend to do but most are saying that their clunk is at start and stop.
Mine is between 30 and 60mph when I let off the accelerator I get a clunk followed by a vibration and when I get on the accelerator it is just the clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke to yall or am I looking at something more? I have tried turning the drive saft and there is no play in it at all.
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I'm a mechanic but work only on cars so I'm a little shy on diagnosing trucks. I have a 2001 7.3 f250 4x4 short bed, when I give it gas I can hear a clunk, when I let off of the gas I also hear a clunk. Also when traveling at high way speeds I can feel a strong vibration when I very lightly give it gas but the vibration goes away as I give it more gas.
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Drove it last night around 9pm. Parked it and went to drive it again this morning around 7:30. No cold weather here or rain. Here is what I know: When I turn the key I hear a click (not a repeating click) but the engine doesn't turn over. Batteries have 12.5 volts. I put my trickle charger on them and had full charge after about 3 or 4 minutes. When I turn the key the headlights do not go dim. I put a screw driver across the solenoid on the passenger side fender and got a strong arc. When I do that, I can also hear another click that sounds like its coming from the engine. I tapped the starter a few times with a hammer, but it still wont turn over. I'm guessing bad starter.
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Trying to track down an issue (annoyance) I'm having with my 02 7.3 4x4 excursion. When I get in the truck and turn the key (after waiting for glow plugs) the starter doesn't actually turn over for 1-3 seconds and sometimes up to 5. When the truck does turn over everything works perfect it's just an annoying delay.
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On my way home from work the other day my 2000 7.3l started making a humming sound while driving. I noticed that it was shifting harder and it began to slam into gear when I would take off from a stop. By the time I pulled into the driveway I had to be half way into the pedal to keep it moving. I shifted into reverse and it clunked loudly and didn't want to back up. I don't know much about transmissions but I'm thinking that it's probably shot. I'm hoping that it's something other than a complete rebuild but doubtful.
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My power steering is only working when i turn it to the left. When I turn it to the right i have to get a 1/4 of a turn in until the power steering takes over. So i get under my truck to discover what seems to be a piece of my tranny missing. How screwed am I ???
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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Batteries are a year old. Drove to work. Now won't turn over even with a diesel truck jumping. Voltage above 12 and slowly drops when cranking.
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The short story is I sent my chip to dp tuner last week while on vacation to have Jody update my programs. The ecu was out of the truck for about a week. I reinstalled everything today. Everything works fine except my radio won't turn on. Clock only comes on when headlights are on. Checked all the fuses all good except #32 which is a 5a. Manual says it's the radio start fuse. Fuse is fine not blown out, new one installed still no power on either side of the fuse. Where should I look now. 2002 super duty
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2007 F250 4WD 5.4l ... when I turn sharply in either direction I am getting a light clunk sound similar to when you are in 4WD on blacktop and try turning. The engine also seems to wanna stall when I cut the wheel too sharp.
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Doing some suspension work this weekend. Wondering where the best place for jacking up my truck (99 f250 SD 4wd). I need to take the U bolts off so I can't put the jack there. I've got a 2 ton, 3 ton, and 25 ton jack. Only one stand. I need the whole rear end jacked up at the same time. Same for the front. I've heard your not supposed to place the jack on the pumpkin. Is it OK to just jack it up by the axle and put the stand as close to the outside as possible?
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Was making a U-turn, and out of no where, had no brakes and no steering.. Not a fun situation to be in....
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I have an electrical problem and my parking lights will not turn off. I had to pull the fuse in the power distribution box (engine compartment) to get them to turn out.
Pulled the switch in the dash (lights still work) and the switch is good so it appears I'm getting power to the circuit somewhere in the harness? Literally, when I pulled the switch out of the dash and replaced the fuse, my lights came on.
Looking for a schematic for a 1999 F350 SWB 7.3PSD? Perhaps it's a relay gone bad?
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I'm having issues with my girlfriends truck turning over. It won't turn over at all. I'm not getting any power to the small wire on the relay on the passenger fender or the red wire with a blue stripe off the ignition module.
I've cleaned and tested the batteries and the terminals. I've replaced the ignition switch the ignition module the starter and the starter relay on the passenger fender and I've also checked the neutral safety switch. I've checked all the fuses and relays also.
It's a 2000 Ford 7.3l automatic.
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I have a 2000 Ford X diesel with the 7.3 engine. About 2 years ago whenever I would drive it during the summer, and I would shut it off and then a few minutes later tried starting it again, it would start. It doesn't even turn over or making a clicking sound but it acts like the motor is dead. The lights and all the electrical work, but it doesn't turn over at all. It will start back whenever it cools down. It doesn't happen during the winter time or when its cool outside, only when the weather is hot. I've replaced both batteries and the starter but nothing happens. Tonight it did it again and I have to wait 20-30 minutes in the parking lot until it would start again.
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Wonder what color wire provides power to turn selector switch on steering column. I checked under dash for fuse 23, and all maxi fuses under hood are good. Also swapped the turn signal relay under dash and no success. I have yet to clean the pins on the firewall harness connection.
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When starting, rapid clicking like failing batteries. Had dealer install new Motorcraft batteries, and it's still happening. Clicks when i turn the key and then labors while turning over for 20 seconds. Sometimes it takes 2 or three times before it starts. I put in a rebuilt alternater 5 years ago. It seems like a fuel problem, but I'm guessing.
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So the PO tells me he was flying down the highway and went to cancel his cruise control and it wouldn't turn off. He claims he made it to the shoulder of the highway and killed the ignition. When he restarted the truck is was turned off and it hasn't been used since. I tried to use it yesterday but couldn't get it to work?
So I do the search and find out that the deactivation switch is most likely the issue. I just picked up a new one today and was curious if it is just a R & R thing or if it needs to be bleed off or something? Is there a need to test it or just change it out? Sound like something that would cause these issues?
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I have an new to me 1999 4x4 F350 that I was giving a good once over today on the front end since it wanders a little bit. but anyways I didnt see a abs sensor wire on the front. the plugs are there behind the inner fender well and it looks like there is a plug when the sensor should go in the wheel bearing. was 2 wheel abs an option on these trucks? is there anything else this changes front end wise?
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Been trying to track down a noise in the front end. Got a growl and what sounds like a big cat scratching its nails on a metal plate. The metal sound comes and goes, but the growl is always present at one level or another. It sounded like it was coming from the driver's side. I jacked the truck and checked everything on that side and it seemed tight. It was all replaced about two years ago. I then started looking around and found the sway bar links were shot along with the bushings. I then jacked up the passenger's side and checked that.
Should have done this first as it was pulling to the right and not the left. The wheel was hard to rotate and stopped rotating as soon as I stopped forcing it. It was making a growling noise, but not nearly as loud as when the truck was rolling down the road. It also had a bit of play that I tracked down to the hub assembly. The ball joints and u-joints were tight with no play at all. The dust seal that should be on the axle was gone and the hub seal looked beat. Tie rod ends all seemed good. Ordering part now. My question is there anything else I should look at?
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