Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Check Fuel Sending Unit Connection
Jul 6, 2017
So I did the hutch mod several months ago and all was fine.. Couple days ago I went to fill up, cheap diesel, for upcoming trip.
Fuel gauge was working and showing just less than 1/2 tank. Went to Walmart with gift card and started pumping. Got to talking with duramax owner and noticed fuel was finished. did not pop off like the level was high in fill tube just can to end of money..
SO I get in, turn on key to get mileage to mark down miles, gallon, amount etc and noticed the fuel gauge look like it wanted to go up and then it drops to "E" and the fuel light comes on..
Yesterday I drop spare and check sending unit connection which was OK so must be issue with sending unit. ?? So I might need to take camper shell off, fiberglass, and lift bed.. too much fuel in tank and not going to be driving it enough to get down. What size are the bolts holding bed to frame and how do I need do this??
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I recently dropped my tank and one of the connector clips broke taking it off. How can I find anther connector or clip, I have looked at the ford dealer, napa and oriellys with not luck. It seems as if they don't exist. The ford dealer wants me to buy a new fuel line. Also I did something that now I know is not good but I cut the connector out to take to the parts stores and they said that it can not be put back together. Is this true?
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I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
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I've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
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I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
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I figured I would try my hand at making a video because I find them useful.. Anyway, if you plan on dropping the DEF tank and /or replacing the heater/sending unit.
2011 -2014 Ford DEF tank removal / sending unit replacement - YouTube
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Will the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
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I have finally gotten my 93 Explorer back on the road. Now I have a few things that I am trying to get fixed.
The first things that I need to get repaired is my Fuel Sending Unit replaced. How hard is this and what kind of pitfalls am I looking at.
The problem that I am having is that my fuel gauge is never right. The other day I ran out of gas, but the gauge said full. Go firgure.
Anyway I have been told that the problem is my sending unit in the fuel tank. So is there any advise on this repair.
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Is there any kind of test short of sending a sample to Blackstone or the like to verify if there is actually fuel in my degas bottle as opposed to oil residue from bad oil cooler O-rings?
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Replaced fuel pump which is fine now, but installed new lock ring and gasket and getting fuel seepage around the sending unit area.
The gasket that came with the fuel pump seems kind of thin to provide a good seal here.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3L with 175,000 miles and it died on me July 30th. Here were the symptoms when it died:
Engine was sluggish at standard RPM about 1300-1500 going about 45 MPH, so I stepped on the gas and it seemed to go away. About another 5 miles down the road and starting from a stop, the same thing started happening. The entire truck seemed like it was going to shake itself apart and with the peddle at half throttle it revved to 3500 rpm and didn't shift into 2nd gear until after about 5 seconds at that RPM. After it jerked into 2nd gear the engine dropped back down to about 1000 RPM and started shaking violently again. At this point I managed to make it to a shopping center and then as soon as I let off the gas (still shaking), the engine dropped to 500 RPM and after about 15-30 seconds shut off. When I got the truck home I managed to start it one more time but it shortly stalled after about 15-30 seconds, again it was hovering around 500 RPM and still shaking badly.
Here is what happens when I try to start it:
From 0-2 seconds, truck goes through a normal cranking rhythm and sound.
From 2-10 seconds, it slowly tries to start itself back up but it sounds like it is only firing on a few cylinders, I'm guessing maybe 2-3.
I stopped after 10 seconds in fear of burning out the starter or killing the batteries.
Troubleshooting:
Removing the connection to the ICP sensor, something I read that might at least let me start the truck, which is how I found the oil on the connection itself. I also noticed a little bit of what looks like oil on the some of the wiring harnesses in the surrounding area. I also checked the fuel bowl and it is filled with fuel.
Possible solutions?:
From what I have read on the forums I am guessing that it has something to do with the ICP or the IPR sensors. I also believe that it is a sensor related issue considering that the truck won't even start. I am completely off track. I am going to start working on it full stride this weekend. I have been vehicle-less since the 30th so I'm trying to get this fixed asap. I don't have any codes, I am going to try to get a coder this weekend.
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Been reading about the various ways a fuel level sending unit can fail; think I have a first!
Purchased a new sending unit on eBay for less than $25; dealer wanted over $70!
Dropped the tank, pulled out the pump, and took a close look at the unit; at first, I thought I had play in the bushing as others have found.
However, looking closer, turns out one of the two springed 'tangs' that ride up and down on the potentiometer had broken off, and was not making contact with the board! No amount of fuel additive would have fixed this!
1 hour job to complete the job, and everything works as it should! Terrible pic, but the tangs are inside the black square, and the one farthest from the pivot point is broke....
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I just changed out the fuel sending unit in my 08 Accent and now the gauge doesn't work. Everything appears to be plugged in.
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My 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
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This has happened only 4 times in the last 4 years till about a month ago. (happened twice in 2 days). With key on i get the glow plug light and CEL on but no power to the pump (FASS) and obviously no fuel pressure. it will crank, but nothing on the tach. I've tried plugging in a scanner and it doesn't make a connection with the pcm. all lights work and gauges work (tach and speedo are at zero obviously)...
Before I couldn't pin down when it happened due to being so intermittent. But the last two times it has happened it was when I started it and drove somewhere close before it was at full operating temp. (and in retrospect the previous times was a similar situation). She'll start fine cold, and when at operating temp.
When it happens I pull the battery cables let it set. Reconnect and within a few tries works fine. PCM going bad? Is there a sensor I need to check? New motor has about 25k on it.
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The oil pressure gauge is dancing on my 4.2L '99 Ford E-150 (V-6) and at times the oil light comes on but there's no rattling or other signs of oil deficiency in the engine. I'm pretty sure it's a problem with the sending unit and did an oil change today but for the life of me couldn't find where it's located. I looked all around the filter when I replaced it but to no avail. The Haynes manual and internet pics I find are not recognizable parts in them to reference. I can't tell if they're looking under the car, on top, driver's side etc.
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I have a 99 SD 7.3 with 210K miles. It has the OE water pump, clutch and fan. I am replacing every thing from pump to fan including pulley, thermostat and sensor. The question is can every thing be removed as a unit? I don't see why not but never did one that way.
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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I picked up a 1999 F-250 Super Duty with the extended cab (not the full crew cab), and have been working on restoring, upgrading, and improving it. It is in great mechanical shape, but needed cosmetic work, replacement of the mirrors and some lenses, and updating to modern tech. I've got all the key wiring in place to install a new in-dash PC head unit with backup camera and a new sub and amp to improve the audio. The problem I'm working on right now is that the head unit is a bit too deep for the double-din slot in the dash.
I could let it stick out 1.5-2" or so and trim it out, but to be honest, I'm not keen on that at all. I think it looks terrible, and I've gone to a ton of trouble already for a nice clean, sleek install and would like to keep it that way.
I've also looked and whether the screen might be divorced from the main body, or the chassis shortened, but neither of those is going to work.
I've considered that there may be someone who makes custom dashes that stick out further for situations like this, effectively deepening the stereo pocket by adding space at the front. If there is though, I can't find them.
Finally, and what seems the most likely, is that I would need to modify/reroute the air duct, and notch out the steel tube at the back of the cavity, to gain an extra 2-3" of depth.
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2002 F250 diesel ... I found these two plastic pieces yesterday on the floor near the 4X4 shifter. I noticed the other day when i step on the brake the rear view camera in the head unit comes on, so i am thinking they are either a part of the brake switch on the pedal assembly, or something to do with the shift tube.
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So my 7.3 started sputtering and lost power, died on the side of the road. I wasn't far from home put about 8 gallon of diesel in the tank with a couple of fuel jugs and it fired right up.
Gauge was reading 1/8 of a tank and low fuel light did not come on. (low fuel light comes on when you start) Gauge came up to about 1/2 after putting fuel in.
What happened? Gauge was always reliable and low fuel light always did work. Only work done to fuel system was had new tank straps put on a couple of months ago.
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