Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Check Engine Light Briefly On After HPOP Rebuild
Jan 25, 2017
Now that I have been driving for a while I kept seeing this light come on/off and I did a video below - I don't generally flash my lights so don't think I am aggressive - but I wanted to make sure to capture the video and the light coming on.
I was thinking valve cover connection the 50 cent mod - and maybe it's all coincidental - but I did have to pressure wash the troph where the oil collects and maybe something else got knocked loose.
[URL] .....
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2002 7.3 rebuild and installed in the truck but won't start ... Everything is new other than hpop and injectors they came out of a perfectly running engine.
The truck is making enough oil pressure to fire the injectors the first couple cylinders then it quits kinda like a cold start with bad glow plugs. Fuel pump was working perfectly when the engine was taken out of the truck and is still building pressure enough to get some black smoke from the exhaust after cranking for about 15 seconds ...
The hpop reservoir full every time I check it and after cranking for about 15 seconds the oil gauge in the dash for the lpop jumps up to its normal place.
Injectors got new o-rings when they were taken out of the running engine. I'm not sure what else could be keeping the truck from starting.
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I put a 150 w converter into one of my 12-watt power female and all of a sudden when i turned the engine on my check engine light came on with 4 glow plugs bad and now won't pass smog. any way i can turn off the check engine light so it won't comes up on the smog test?
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I bought my 2000 7.3L Ex as salvage back in 2005. It had been through a driver side rollover and the seller had restored it. We lived in North Idaho then. But I remember I always had an issue with the check engine light being on. I don't remember what the codes said, but many mechanics read them and determined that nothing was wrong. Many surmised that someone had put a high performance chip in the computer and that was what was causing the check engine light to come on. All of them reset the computer and every time it would come back on. Should I replace the computer?
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1999 f250 7.3 101k California truck ... Scanned it said #1 glow plug did not clear the code. But now the check engine light is off again...
Questions : Harness issue ? Glow plug bad at 100k ? Glow plug controller ?
Start at glow plug work way back to GP CM or in reverse ?
Replacement Do all 8 or just the bank of 4 ?
Thoughts on replacement brands
Accurate diesel glow plug replacement kits any good, will they last ?
Or go factory glow plugs
What about Felpro gaskets
I heard about another brand of GP CM
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2001 F350 290,000 no mods other than 6637, 2WD
Towed our new to us RV home last, only 15 miles from the dealer and yes its a big 5th for my truck at 12,000lbs. Anyhow, about 2 mins from home as I'm pulling off the freeway I got a SES light come up, then it disappeared. I checked codes this morning using forscan and nothing shows to indicate what it may be.
I was wondering if the transmission is getting hot if it throws an SES? It was only a short trip, but I have no real idea of the condition of the trans as the truck is new to us too - fluid looks and smells good.
Only new code is an ABS one c1229, c1233, C1234. I had 2 of them before - think the 1229 is the new one.
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong. Any way to check what's wrong myself?
Also just to double check, the cylinder number is 1, 3, 5, 7 for the passenger side front to back right? And 2, 4, 6, 8 for drivers side? And front to back means when looking at the front of the car? 2001 7.3 Excursion Limited with 232k miles...
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I have a 2002 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with Automatic. I have been having off and on issues for months with the throttle going dead. This only happens when I start it, if it works when started it will continue working until a different start session.
I have replaced the pedal several times before learning how to check its output with a meter and am quite sure that is not my issue at this time. However, when the pedal is depressed the check engine light lites up and nothing happens.
I am thinking it must be the computer itself, but was told there is another sensor or module under the hood that could cause the issue also which is several hundred dollars to replace as would be the computer.
Is there a way to test the computer, and what is this other module/sensor if it exists that could be the issue? Unhooking and rehooking the battery to reset the computer is no longer working to buy me a few more weeks, is there a simple way to reset the computer to try?
I love this truck when the throttle works but I am getting tired of paying on a truck while having to borrow a vehicle to drive to work.
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I have a 2000 f350 7.3 got a check engine light that turns off when rpms go up and a slow start. My mechanic said that there were no codes being blown, what is going on?
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 I was driving down the road today and I lost throttle along with my check engine light coming on. I pulled over and turned my truck off and now it will not fire back up.
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I have a 2001 F350 with the 7.3 standard trans. The previous owner put a toggle switch to control the EBPV as an engine brake, I've never used it. It blows white/blue smoke when cold but has for the last 4 years and doesn't seem any worse now.
Last fall I ran the truck the lowest on fuel that I ever have, the light was on for a long time and I thought I would run out. I made it to the gas station and filled it up then drove home. The next time I drove it I went about 25 miles and it started to buck while going up hill. This got worse and eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled.
It wouldn't start again so I had it towed home. I got it started a couple hours later but it would run really rough and only for a minute or so then stall. It will usually start again once or twice and stall, then it wont start again until it has sat for an hour or so.
I didn't have a code reader at the time so I started reading threads. Here's what I've done to date.
Changed the oil and filter, it was way over do. New fuel filter.
The oil level in the HPOP stays about an inch from the top, I've checked it a few times after its stalled.
Dropped the tank and cleaned the screens in the pick up, no change.
The ICP had oil on it so I replaced it and a new connector, no change.
Changed the CSP with a grey one, no change.
Changed the IPR valve with one from a buddy that was on an engine that was running. The truck ran rough for a min then settled down and ran smooth. I let it idle for 20-25 minutes with no problem so I thought the problem was solved. After sitting for a month or so I fired it up and its back to running rough then stalling.
I bought a Vgate ELM327 connector and downloaded FORScan on my laptop. (I'm still not sure what I'm doing). These are the stored codes P1281, P0475, P1316, P0478, P0470, P1211. I cleared all the codes. I did a buzz test cold and the Injectors all sounded the same.
I monitored the truck while running (rough) the IPR is staying around19.92%, ICP is 701.4psi. After 5 seconds the ICP starts to climb and so does the IPR, at 12 seconds the IPR is 37.11 and ICP is 1835.1 psi the it stalls. The fuel pw,ms is around 2.50-3.0 until before it stalls, then its 1.66. The only codes that come up are P0475, P0470, B1473.
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Transmission rebuild? I seen a few threads where people talk of it but no follow up. I've heard it takes special tools but then so does a lot of things we shadetree on our own....
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the wife's '01 Excursion has developed a new idling quirk. While sitting, it will briefly drop rpm's. You can hear it, and see it on the tach gauge. No other noises or problems, except for the brief drop in rpm's.
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2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
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I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
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I started "Hard Start at Operating Temperature" you can probably tell that 300k has done a number on my HPOP. I'm wondering what to do... do I buy a new pump from ford? Buy from ebay? Or is there a good pump rebuilder in the Portland metro area? I've heard they are almost impossible to rebuild.
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So I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
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Pulled the HPOP reseal an oring that was leaking oil. Feel confident that I made sure the check ball stayed in place. Torqued the bolt to 96 ft lbs. Have fuel in the bowl.
We have cycled the starter about 20 times for 15 to 20 seconds. Batteries are charged.
Here is what the AE scan tool is saying after a few seconds of cranking:
ICP -160
IPR - 0.43
Duty - 63.67
Do I need to get a different reading/test.
I have read about stuck open IPR valve giving the low pressure problem, but the truck was running prior to pulling the HPOP.
Lets say I left out the check ball. Would the scan tool show 0 pressure? (Trying to rule out the check ball)
How about if I didn't get the spring seated in the high pressure oil fitting and instead it is hung on the threads and is compressed inside the HPOP. Could that be the case?
Not for sure it makes a difference, but the truck did fire off once on Ether for second.
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Do I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
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The leak drains into the first valley of the block. This is after a cleaning and about 300 miles driving. I thought it may be the IPR but, it's looking pretty dry:
Some more pics .....
The HPOP line fittings are dry too. Where else do there the HPOP's tend to dribble a leak of oil from?
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I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
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