Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Cannot Shift Into Park
Aug 17, 2016
Seems like I have an issue every other week of driving my truck. Today I arrived at work and attempted to shift into park but it wouldn't go. I went to tighten the bolts and after tightening it still wouldn't work. So I tried tightening them again and the top of the top bolt broke off. So I took a nut and a lock washer and put it on the other side (was very hard) and got it tightened best I can. It looks tightened pretty good but I still can't shift into park. Maybe the bushing for that piece are bad? I have no clue where to go from here or what I need or even if putting a nut on the bolt works.
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Won't shift into park, Checked the two bolts and they were tight. Ended up having a rock wedged behind shift lever on the transmission.
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My truck will not always start when in park, Have to switch it to neut sometime, and sometime after putting it in park it won't fully engage, I know the part that I need to replace just don't know the name or the part number for ford....It is the part that adjusts the shift indicator...
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I have 2000 F-250 7.3L when I start it up and push the brake it won't come out of park and when I push the brake the volt meter goes to 8 volts. If I shut it off and try again it is ok. Might take a couple of times of doing this then it's ok for a couple of days then it happens again. I've checked the connection on brake switch and everything looks ok. What to check next?
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We have a 2002 excursion. I have replaced the 4x4 selector switch on the dash as well as the front hubs they are now the warn premium hubs and the transfer case shift motor all part are ford all but the hubs. My question is it will not shift from 2 hi to 4 hi to 4 low, I have done all the right things that the book says to do, put vic in neutral keep foot on break, switch selector switch to 4x4 or 2 or low and it will not shift. When the transfer case shift motor was off i put the truck back in 2 wheel drive by hand with a wrench and it moves free no binding what else could it be the fuse under the steering wheel is good and new parts are good as well...
4x4 2002 excursion limited 7.3 only mod is cold air intake....
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A few months ago I couldn't get the shift lever out of park without trying multiple times. Then it was okay for about 5 months now it is back and worse. It is not bound up because of parking on a hill or anything like that and I press very hard on the brake pedal. It take s multiple times to get it out of park trying turning the key on and off and so on. The truck only has 86,000 miles on it and the transmission has always worked perfectly.
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I have noticed that I have to hold my gear selector towards park to get the reverse lights to come on. Also some times I have to hold it towards park to get it to start. I changed my tranny in Dec 2009 and occasionally it would do this while starting, just noticed the reverse lights about a week ago. Tried moving the cable where it attaches to the tranny a couple of serrations each direction. No luck. Is there another place I can make an adjustment?
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My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
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I noticed my '99 started getting difficult to get in gear & shift, within a coupe of days the peddle was barely off the floor before it would engage. A day later it started 'creeping' if started while in gear. Replaced the master/slave cylinders with no change.
Is a clutch replacement the next step? Just thought I would ask before throwing money at it, since the only other times I've had clutch issues there was slipping or it just plain exploded.
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I need to replace the cable on my gear shift indicator. Of course you can't just replace the cable. I have even looked on you tube and not found anything. I don't know if maybe I am using the wrong search terms or not.
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I've had a shifter-related short on my instrument panel and stereo lights for close to two years now, and it finally got so bad I had to dig in and decided to proactively replace the shift tube while I was digging in. After all, the existing one had 290K miles on it. Although the lighting issue drove me to replace the shifter tube in hopes of finding a damaged wire, but this issue has now been moved to a separate thread [URL] ...... The remainder of this thread deals with my difficulty with the new hardware.
So, I compiled all the info I could find on replacing the shifter tube and did the replacement on Saturday (Dorman shifter tube kit from O-Reilly's). The Dorman kit was fine, mechanically, and the parts fit together well. I did, however, have to smooth out some burrs and sharp machining edges where the new nylon bushings go just to prevent premature wear on them from the sub par machining cleanup a the Dorman manufacturer. I also inspected all of the wiring harnesses and connectors carefully, but could not find any evidence of a shorted wire anywhere.
Results... Shifter Movement: Overall, the shift movements are much more secure and smooth as butter, even though the shift arm itself still has slop in it where it gets pinned into the tube housing.
Now that it's all together, though, I can no longer shift down into 1st gear, and getting it into Park to release the key is tedious. I uninstalled and reinstalled the rear shifter bracket three times (the one which is typically related to not being able to get into Park and 1st). I carefully made sure that it was tight and completely flat against the rear of the shift tube each time. I just cannot tell why getting into Park is tougher than it used to be, nor can I find a physical barrier preventing it from getting it into the 1st gear position.
So here are my questions:
1. The steering column mounting flanges have some adjustment slop around the two rear mounting bolts, and the front two bolts also have minimal "adjustment" capability. Is ti possible that my entire shift positioning problem is due to not having the steering column physically mounted in the right alignment and that is restricting motion on the gear shift flex shaft?
2. If the answer to #1 above is "no", then what else do I need to be looking for to resolve this limited shifter movement?
3. There is a solenoid switch at the rear of the shift tube... is it possible that this is going out? I honestly do not suspect it because I have no trouble starting the truck when in Park, but I have not yet verified the effect of being in "R" on whether or not my backup lights come on.
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2001 F250 7.3 - warn manual hubs.. However, the wife has been driving the truck and I don't know how often she has cycled 4WD.
Basically if you choose 4WD hi it doesn't light up to indicate that it has engaged, if you drive for a couple of minutes slowly then eventually it drops in - not much use if you're already stuck. It will then select 4Lo. Coming out of 4Lo to 4Hi or 2WD is painfully slow - like 5-6 minutes before the dash light goes out for 2WD.
I was thinking maybe the electric motor for the transfer case - unless it is the transfer case dying.
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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My shift indicator switch on the trans seized up, so a local trans shop replaced it for me. Now I get no low range when I select it. I understand it needs to see the truck in neutral to do this, is there a simple adjustment? The trans shop is a long way away.
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99.5 F-250 4 wheel drive. I have a rattle near the firewall in the shift mechanism. If I hold lever the noise stops. What is required to fix?
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i bought a f250, i rebuilt the 7.3 after installing it the transmission isn't shifting correctly. Reverse perfect, 1st and shifts to 2nd great. wont go into 3rd. i replaced the 2 sensors on the transmission, i replaces the sensor on the 3rd member. the speedometer works but not correctly, i can unplug the sensor on the front of transmission and it shifts into 3rd. but when i plug it back it doesn't. no codes. could it be the ecm?
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2003 7.3 powerstroke won't shift out of park when running. When my plugs are warming I have to shift into neutral then start truck. Works just fine after that unless I go in to park again. Brake lights work just fine. So I am guessing brake light switch is fine. What's next to check?
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It's happened to me the last 3 times I've taken my truck out and drove through some deep snow. I have a hard time shifting the transmission from drive to park. The snow must get packed up under the truck near the shift linkages.
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I bought it 4 years ago with 205K, swapped trans fluid.. 10k miles later (I don't drive it a lot ). I am throwing the code P0750 Shift A malfunction.. i figured id swap the solenoid pack since I am pretty handy and it was affordable.. but it didn't seem to do the trick.. it drove around the block good for 5 minutes before it started shifting weird and throwing a code again.. almost seems to be slipping... I still have to check fluid level again and scan the code again but any suggestions? I have an apt to go to the tranny shop this week and would like to avoid the big bucks if possible.
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Well, I've been getting a flashing OD light, so doing some research, led me to replace the shift solenoid. I did just that and have yet again the same P0741 code... The truck seems to shift normal but will randomly throw the code and then will not go into Overdrive as well as shift very hard into all gear. Where to look next?
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Problems with my 2001 F250 4r100 transmission. Transmission will only shift to 2nd gear when throttle is feathered at @2500 rpm. All other gears shift perfectly. This problem is consistent.
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