Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Cannot Remotely Lock The Doors After Driving For Thirty Minutes
Mar 8, 2016
I replaced my gpr on Friday night and my remote to lock the doors worked just fine. Saturday morning they unlocked just fine as well drove it thirty minutes and went to lock my doors with the remote and it didn't work. So could this just be crazy timing for it to stop working or could it be related?
I have a 2000 f250 4x4 I've tested with all three remotes I have for it and none of them work where would I start to test and see if it is just bad connections or dirty ones?
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07 Prius, non smart key. One fob failed, other one works but button covers worn off. Purchased new fob, did the chicken dance, fob will now start car... but will not open/lock doors remotely. Took battery from working fob and put in new fob, no difference. New fob light blinks like the old working one when buttons are pressed. I do not have the "fob" button under the steering column, just a tire pressure set button there. In another thread someone wrote that with the new fob in the slot, start the car, and open and close the door, and function the locks to set new fob to be able to operated the locks... no luck.
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With my 2003 PSD 6.0L, I would lock all doors with interior lock button and lock driver's door with the key. Can I do the same with my 2015 PSD 6.7 L or is there another easier/simpler way?
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My mirrors on a 2016 explorer don't move when we lock the doors, or move into position when we unlock them.
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I have always been afraid this day would come - that the engine would outlast the door and window systems.
I have never previously in life wanted a vehicle with electric assisted windows and doors for this reason - remember when those were expensive foo-foo options on a vehicle?
Anyway the back passenger door window has not worked for a couple years now. Not too big a deal.
A month ago the back passenger door could no longer be opened from either side. Not too good and I couldn't see much of a way to ever fix it.
This morning the back driver side door won't open from either side. The lock only half-heartedly wants to unlock via the powered system though it can be fully pulled up manually (not as possible on the passenger side rear).
Next up will be the front doors...
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I have a 2000 F250 super cab and the doors rattle going over bumps. I've seen the weather stripping mod and intend to do this but my drivers side doors are touching at the top. Would this indicate that the busings are shot? With the doors open, when I lift on the outer edge there is no movement in the hinge area. The drives door and drivers side back door actually touch and rub at the top. Any pointers?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 4WD automatic with 313,000 miles. A week ago it started stalling after it idled for 10 minutes. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It would sputter a few times then just quit. I changed the fuel filter and the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Since that day, it has acted the same way every morning at 1st startup. It idles fine for 10-20 minutes (depending on how cold it is outside), then hesitates a little, then stops. After going through 3 new fuel filters (thinking I had bad fuel), I stopped putting in a new filter every morning, and found that if I just waited 4 or 5 minutes, it would start and run fine after that. It then runs fine the rest of the day.
After it stalls, it will not start right away. I need to wait a few minutes. I've tried draining the fuel filter bowl also. No luck. I tried a new Cam Positioning Sensor. It seems to be related to temperature. It's been getting down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit the past few mornings. It starts fine and idles fine until the temp gauge just starts to move. Then, the stall happens. My fill-up just prior to this happening was with B20 Bio Diesel. I suspected that for a while. But, I've ran all that fuel through plus 4 or 5 regular diesel tanks through, so I no longer think it was related to that. It do see the check engine light when it stalls. I had a shop read my codes and the only code was bad KAM memory. The mechanic said that code shows up all the time on these engines and not to worry about it.
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My f250 is having a stalling issue. It will run fine for about 5-10 minutes and then die out, already replaced CPS, fuel filter, and fuel pump. What else could be the problem?
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I have had my excursion for almost 4 years, I love this truck. but lately we have been having issues that we haven't been able to figure out. First it has about 390K miles on it.
I ALWAYS have to plug it in. it could be 90 degrees out and I still have to plug it in. if it Is plugged in normally it will start fine. but then when I go to drive it, it wont have any power until I get like 2 miles down the road. you can push the pedal all the way down and it will go like 10mph. but once it warms up its fine. if I forget to plug it in, I will have to plug it in for about 2 hours and then it will start hard and run really rough for about 10 min. And it will blow greyish smoke out the exhaust.
But now I'm having the issue of keeping it running. it will start and run for 5-15 min and then quit and I have to wait anywhere from 10min - 1 hour to start it again.
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I have a 2001 santa fe. replaced the battery, alternator and I keep losing power while driving, radio goes on and off, a/c blows on and off, doors lock and unlock by themselves it holds a charge for about a week then breaks down again!
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So I went out this morning to start the truck up like I do every morning. It cranked once, and didn't start, which is somewhat normal. second crank it started right up, which is normal, then after about 2 minutes, it seemed like the rpms were bouncing and the engine got a little more slower and louder, then it dipped below 500, then stalled. After that moment nothing. It just cranks. Now it was VERY low on fuel, I've been this low on fuel and never had anything like this happen, so my neighbor took me up to the station and I bought 2 gallons. came back, still nada. I went out after letting it sit on the block heater for about an hour and noticed a small puddle of fuel under the truck on the passenger side. I went to start it and the fuel gauge went up to a half tank. cranked, no start. then again and it went up again but slowly started creeping back down.
Now the kicker, I have very limited knowledge of diesel engines, or gas for that matter. So if my intuition is right, this is probably going to be a learning experience for me... what should I check first guys? Its plugged in right now but I am sure that's not gonna fix it.. I am gonna change the oil first since it needs it, I bought shell rotella triple t 15w40 which im assuming is ok. last winter It was leaking fuel when it was really cold out but that was it, just leaking a bit and then after spring it went away. I know I should have fixed it when it started but I have an extreme anxiety to letting any mechanic near my vehicles and just about as much anxiety trying to fix it myself. I'm at a loss for what to do, I'm a pro with computers but this truck scares the crap out of me, I'm terrified I'll do something worse.
2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke 7.3 4x4, 218,000 Miles....
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I have a 2000 4x4 Limited 7.3 Powerstroke. 290k miles and runs like a top. However, if I don't plug it in for a few hours before starting she sounds like an old John Deere Poppin' Johnny. I had the glow plugs replaced yet had to go back to the repair shop three times since because it threw a code each time. No codes now just rough shaking and vibrating start for about 5min (without plugging in block heater) or so then once warmed up she runs great.
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So I have a replacement steering column for my truck and need to swap out lock cylinders. My question is; since there is NO key, is there any way to avoid drilling out retaining pin. If I did drill it out am I entirely screwed'?
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'99 F250 SuperDuty. Tumbler is recessed and the key slot is horizontal rather than vertical. I suspect the spring fingered clip has fallen off.
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On my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
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My transfer case engages the front drive shaft spins but even when I manually lock my hubs neither of my tires will pull! I was thinking either the hubs are shot but I was told it could be the 4wd locking solenoid??
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Trying to replace a right rear door handle on my 01 7.3. Attached is a photo of the new handle with the unlock rod. Also is attached is photos of the door without handle. I pointed to the part that moves the lack to unlock.
Looking for the clip part number or photo that is missing. I thought a hose clamp would work maybe with a nut on the rod?
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My truck was stolen over the weekend. Fortunately, it was recovered but they broke the key lock on the steering column and I'm having a hard time getting it started. I can turn the ignition all the way to the start position with my key or a screwdriver but the starter never engages. I'm sure I'm missing something simple but I can't seem to figure it out. Looking for instructions on how to get this started again?
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I have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??
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My pickup has 316,000 miles on it. It's a 2000 ford f250 7.3 powerstroke. I have always bragged how my truck can pull anything because it has alot of power. Yesterday when pulling a 28' travel trailer up an incline I noticed I didn't have much power and it steadily got worse. Now I'm at a crawl when I hear a noise sounding like it lost air compression for a few minutes then the noise stopped. I stopped and looked to make sure everything under the hood was still attached and everything seemed fine.
I got back in and continued very slowly a few more miles home. Gauge were all good, never got hot. I put a scanner on it and it threw two codes. P1247 and P1248. I haven't noticed any unusual smoke. This is my second ford I've owned and know that when weather gets cold you may have to plug it in. But this truck it doesn't matter if it's 100 outside it will not start without plugging in for at least 1 hour. I've replaced all glow plugs hasn't worked. So I am assuming this break down now has something to do with it. I really am starting to not like fords!
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I have been getting about a 1-2 second power loss while driving. happened last friday when at a stop light, pressed the pedal and started to go then it dropped out for a second or two and then caught right back up. only cut out twice in 10 minutes then ran fine for another week. This friday oddly enough , it happened again while driving down the road. happened about 5 different times in 10 minutes, then back to normal. I replaced the passenger uvch with dorman, but not driver side a couple of months ago . Does this sound like the other uvch, or tps?
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