I have what might be a big problem, the main harness on top of the drivers side valve cover I can't get undone, the bolt holding it together is stripped or the nut who knows? wondering if there is any way to take it apart otherwise.
View 11 RepliesIs there a different battery box or better battery holder for the driver side without all the air filter housing stuff. I had an AFE Big boost filter and when I modified the stock battery box it still had the bottom section of the air filter compartment well after about 4-5 years I was cleaning the filter today and there was a hole rubbed in the filter from moving around and the pre filter is getting holes wore through it. So I cut the air box part off so now the filter will sit on the fiberglass stuff on the fender well. I ordered a couple of the new Blue Donaldsons from RiffRaff to replace the Big Boost filter. The modified filter box looks kinda like a hack job because all I had was a cut off wheel and the plastic got hot and now I have melted buggers all over it. I thought I saw somethin a long time ago about a battery holder out of a van that was just the bottom plate but can't find it anywhere now.
View 8 RepliesI have an oil leak on a 04 f250 6.0 stock. It has 292000 miles on her. It started as a few drips on the pavement about the size of a quarter and now has escalated to a steady trickle. It's on the driver's side in front of engine running down the corner of the block and dripping off the oil pan. I pulled intake plenum and everything and I thought it was coming out of the valve cover but now it looks like its just under the valve cover. It looks like its coming out of the front corner of the head. Its wet there and looks wet around the glow plugs. I cant run it now as I've drained the oil and coolant. I don't have a gauge or anything and its plain stock.
View 14 RepliesMy dumb self cut my factory harness to install a radio and after hooking up said radio (which I know how to do) it popped a fuse. So to avoid any trouble I need to put another harness in but again with my stupidity I cut the wires too short. finding the correct harness
View 2 RepliesSo after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
Small oil leak looks like coming down by drivers side up pipe. I don't think it's the turbo o rings. Better not be. But could be I guess. Anyways. It runs down somewhere by the up pipe down onto transmission. I'm not loosing tremendous oil or anything.
View 14 RepliesI have a '02 7.3 that has developed a severe oil leak in what seems to be a small line that runs from the drivers side head to the HPOP on the passengers side.
it seems to be leaking at the braket that secures it to the head on the drivers side.
what is this line called and where can i find one A.S.A.P?
'99 F250 SuperDuty. Tumbler is recessed and the key slot is horizontal rather than vertical. I suspect the spring fingered clip has fallen off.
View 2 RepliesIt is still a drip, but is getting worse, for several weeks. May be power steering fluid. I have not found the source. I think it is after the truck has run and has fluids operating under pressure.
View 14 RepliesWhile engine was running. brake switch "recall harness" shorted to exhaust manifold blowing fuse 22. truck died instantly. found the short and replaced fuse. checked all fuses good but no start since. WTS indicator stays on. tried a new GPR and a new CPS.
Does IPR and brake switch (on master cylinder) share fuse 22? fuse 22 holds now (when wire was fused to exhaust manifold it blew as soon as key turned on). unplugged FBH no change. recall harness "beeps" good and wires do not appear burnt. also shuffled relays around in central junction box.
Could formerly access OBD2 port with superchips programmer but no access now. fearing the worst, but hoping maybe bad ipr sensor (or another sensor) could cause this. Is it likely or not that this short fried the PCM?
I am going to add some led's to illuminate the steps getting into my truck at night. I plan on putting them directly under the door over the steps. Is there a wire under the door threshold I can tap into at each door? If so what color? If not, where to get the power from. I want them to turn on and off with the interior lights when doors are opened.
View 1 RepliesAfter cleaning entire valley on my 2001 f350 with 7.3 I have found what appears to be a small leak under the hpop drivers near the IPR. HPOP lines are clean and dry. Possible for IPR to leak at 120k miles and what will need to be done to fix.
View 2 RepliesMy driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI can't figure out the problem with my extended cab door. Driver's side doesn't open with either door handle.
View 13 RepliesI noticed my rear brake smoking on the truck really just the rear driver side. I had replaced the pads and caliper and rotor a very long time ago. What I think happened is the parking brake got hung up somehow. The wheel was extremely warm and the reason I noticed it was not only the smoke but I felt some sort of wobble or almost out of alignment issue.
When I got home I noticed the smoke and extreme heat. I removed the caliper and the pads look still "new" and evenly worn. I did bleed the caliper just to make sure no air, I even put a spacer in the caliper and my wife applied the brake and they closed appropriately. Then I was trying to get the rotor off and no success. I did adjust the parking brake but I am not sure if you move it up or down to loosen it up?
I have used PB Blaster to try and loosen it up, rubber mallet while I turn it (although it does not turn easily at all), I sprayed it inside where the adjuster is hoping it would seep down between the shoes and the hub. I heated the hub up with a little torch - no success. I was thinking of using a wood piece as a butter and hammer from the inside out on the rotor but fear that will warm the rotor itself.
I've taken the driver's door panel off, and unpeeled the liner. Now that the door is naked and exposed, I'd like to fix several things at once, rather than wearing the adhesive liner out by sticking and unsticking several cycles.
Here's a short list of some potential fixes I foresee taking care of while in there, how to :
1. The door ajar light. Mine went out over a decade ago, and the gallon of WD40 I sprayed into the latch did NOT fix it. In fact, it turned it from an intermittent issue into a permanent problem. I'd like to fix it now, as I miss having a light at night when the door is open. How do I fix it? Links, part numbers, tips, pictures, videos, search terms... all info welcome.
2. Bottom door rust. I don't really have much, but I see very faint hints of paint bubbling under the lower door weatherstrip barrier, which I have also removed. I've read about two schools of thought on preventative maintenance.
A. Pour oil or grease into the bottom of the door.
B. POR15 paint in the bottom of the door.
So basically, oil or paint? Obviously, one can't paint if one does oil, but on the other hand, some say that paint... especially thick paint like POR15, can actually do more harm than good by trapping moisture in the bottom pinch flange, or by creating craters or tunnels where water can burrow and then get trapped, rotting the metal away. What are your thoughts and experiences on this? I'd prefer a solution that minimizes the number of times I have to unstick the interior liner from the door.
3. I'm doubling the lower door weatherstrip with a combination of the older and newer designs. Ford sells the weatherstrip with clips attached, but neither those clips, nor the original clips, are really effective for what I'm trying to do. I've already done the rear doors, and made it work with the original clips, but they are brittle, and I lost a couple to breakage. Today, I broke three clips pulling the old weatherstrip off of the door.
I can't find these clips anywhere locally... I've tried every variety the auto parts and auto body stores sell, and Ford doesn't sell these clips separately from the weatherstrip... and even if Ford did, they OEM clips are not long enough to hold the double deployment of old and new styles of weatherstripping.
In searching this issue, it appears that a lot of people have broken these clips, which stands to reason with plastic in baking inside a hot door for 15 years. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would benefit from finding a good source of automotive clips.
4. Mirrors. I'm finally getting around to this, and this is what motivated the door panel removal in the first place. I need the dog bone harness that converts from a round connector to the flat style connector. Specifically, I need part numbers 1C3Z-14A411-AA and 1C3Z-14A411-BA. Ford didn't originally sell these dogbone harnesses separately, but included with the purchase of newer style outside rear view mirrors in case the translation harness was needed. Sometimes it was, sometimes it wasn't, so there would often be these unused harnesses left over.
5. Jimmy Jammers. Will they cause more harm than good? Does a better alternative exist? Thinking of installing these while I"m in there, but worried the door will be damaged worse as the thief tries to fight their way in. And, with body on shell doors, there appears to be much easier ways to break into an SD anyway, so part of me thinks, why bother
2003 Ford excursion 7.3. Above the drivers side front tire, the hard inner plastic made contact with the hard line above the frame.. Cut the line. I can't tell if this line is 1 piece towards the reservoir since its hidden from my quick inspection. Looking for a schematic on replacing this line?
This happened after my wife took the truck back to the sugar bush.. She must have been hitting jumps or something
I'm having a problem trying to locate what I assume is an oil leak. It is on the driver side and the whole engine compartment is wet on the side up on firewall beneath the master cylinder. And the whole underneath is wet also axles and leaf spring and can't find where it's coming from. I have sprayed it down with degreaser to try to pin point the leak still no luck. Truck has 236k on it also new hpop and turbo pedestal and checked the valley and its dry. Right now I'm at a loss. I'm leaning towards oil cooler but would a leaking oil cooler cause whole side of engine compartment to be covered?
View 9 RepliesAs part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
View 9 Replies