Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: CPS Replaced / Started Once Now No WTS Light Again / Won't Start
Jan 18, 2015
I was driving the truck a couple of weeks ago and it just died. I costed to the side of the road. It cranked but would not start. noticed the WTS light was not on. I bought a new one from dealership and installed it and it started right up. I assumed I fixed it. I let it warm up and drove it around the block and parked it and plugged the battery tender back up. the other day I got in and no WTS light again.
I was going to look at wire bundle over valve cover and 42 pin connector. Is there any other issues, I need to look at? Is it possible I just got a bad sensor? My guess would be something is shorting the sensor out if thats the problem so before I just put a new one in I thought I would ask the pro's. I have not done a lot of work to my truck aside from replacing the water pump, hoses and coolant.
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This started out as a turbo pedestal O-ring change (leak down the back of the engine). Since I was going to take everything out to do that I figured I'd reseal the fuel bowl and hpop. Wound up replacing the up-pipes as well. Went ahead and changed the ICP and CPS. The truck started rather easy as I've heard its hard to get the air out. I drove it about ten minutes and then noticed it was leaking oil so I went back to check it. I found that it was leaking from one of the output fittings on the hpop as I guess when I tightened it back up after putting on new orings I damaged the pump by over tightening.
The oring and fitting were fine it was on the pump threads I guess. Anyway trucks got 280k miles so I just bought a new hpop from the stealership. Went home and installed it and the truck won't start. Pulled ICP out and cranked no oil coming out. The only other thing would be ipr (I cleaned with brake cleaner and air tip before putting in the new pump) so just to know for sure I bought a new IPR from the stealership and still NO Start. I didn't fool with anything else don't know what it could be. I checked the bolt in the front cover (tight), got to be a BAD (new) pump right.
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I replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
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I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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Just replaced all hpop orings. Injectors loud after start up at idle. Guessing air in lines. How long do I need to drive before all air out of lines and everything back to normal?
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Well, I've been getting a flashing OD light, so doing some research, led me to replace the shift solenoid. I did just that and have yet again the same P0741 code... The truck seems to shift normal but will randomly throw the code and then will not go into Overdrive as well as shift very hard into all gear. Where to look next?
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So my OD light started blinking on the way to work today. The fact that my truck dropped out of cruise control and then started downshifting out of OD on the freeway and back into OD started this ordeal. A quick scan of the dash made it easy to notice the OD light strobe, especially in the dark.
I've read some posts in the past in the event it happened to me since my truck is far from new. I had it in the back of my mind that I would attack the VSS sensor with some contact cleaner then replace if that didn't fix the problem. Doing a search revealed a far greater spectrum of culprits. In addition to the VSS potential I have read about transmission handles, chafed wiring in the steering column, and even the transmission itself. Instead of re-inventing the wheel I'm looking for those that have more knowledge on this issue than I do. Here are my symptoms:
1. Drove 5 miles from my house to the freeway with no issues.
2. Shortly after getting on the freeway I set my cruise control at 65mph.
3. Shortly after that my cruise control 'dropped out' and the truck started to slow down (obviously).
4. When I got back up to speed the cruise would not work which is when the out of OD and right back into OD started. It did that all the way to work (it would go out of OD and back in every couple of minutes or so).
5. Transmission hunted on surface streets too (25mph).
6. Turned the truck off, waited a couple of minutes, then started it back up. OD light is off and truck drives fine.
A couple of things to note. This is the first time anything like this has ever happened with the truck. Also, I have Torque Pro and my instantaneous MPG meter was at 0.0 the entire time this was happening. When I turned the truck off and back on, the MPG was displaying again normally. This is what made me thing something with the VSS connector.
I decided to search the issue and confirm my suspicions then found out that this could be a lot more difficult to pinpoint. Since it cleared up when I cycled the key I am ruling out a transmission issue (for now).
I plan on cleaning the VSS connector (that's the plug on top of the rear axle right?) and then pulling the cover off the steering column to see if I can see any chafed wires. Is there anything else to check out while I'm rooting around? I will add that my transmission handle has always been loose (I think the original owner used to drive with his right hand resting on the handle).
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I recently purchased a 2000 7.3, when it's started cold it's lopes at start up unless I give it some gas and then it's perfectly fine. If the truck is plugged into the engine block heater it starts normal. I changed the oil the day after I bought it and put 15w-40 in it and then the rough idle started. So I don't know if it was like this before or because of the thicker oil I put into in the cold. It also has a service engine soon light on and the code that comes up when read is to the icp sensor. When looking st the sensor the blue wire going to it looks cut and is disconnected. How would I reconnect these wires and see if that makes the check engine light go off.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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So my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
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I have a 02 f250 4x4 7.3l.... I drove it all weekend and no problems. It sat till yesterday I got in it to go to church. It started up and had a little miss was around 60 f. Then the od light started flashing. Not in any code just constant flash. I was parked down in my drive way. It idled fine but acted like it wouldn't take fuel. So looked around and found the hose on the map sensor was broke.
So today I fixed the hose. Checked the oil level and battery connections. Still running weird and flashing od light. I got under the hood and wiggled plugs I unplugged the ice. It revved up then back down and started running smoothly. Got in it and it backed out of the drive way. It ran and drove fine. What I need to know is why??? The ice is a new one from Ford.
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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I am fairly new to powerstrokes, but have a general understanding how the 7.3l operates, and how the fuel system works.
The problem i am experiencing is a crank, no start. The truck has been great for the year and a half that i have owned it. Always cranked great and never any starting or running issues. One day upon cranking, i started the motor; it started normal running good for a minute until the motor suddenly started shuttering and then the motor shut off, happened rather quickly. The truck started up immediately after that and died....repeating the shutter until dead. Now the truck will not start.
Specs on truck:
2002 7.3l
230,000 miles
Manual transmission
Here's what i have replaced so far:
New parts include:
IPR (motorcraft)
ICP (motorcraft)
EBPV (napa)
CPS (napa)
IDM (reman)
Here are some of the diagnostic values i have collected during cranking: (FYI: i am a little confused on what the values mean and what they should be in order for the motor to start):
ICP: 2218 psi
ICP duty cycle: 41%
EBP: 265 kpa
battery voltage: 12.0
Rpm: 355
Things i have checked so far:
Oil is new and level is good.
WTS light cycles as normal.
Fuel bowl is full and over flows with cap off while cranking.
Fuel tank is above half.
Glow plug relay is good.
I was throwing a code for the PCM, but i removed the bully dog tuner and the code has since cleared.
HPOP oil is an inch below full.
I made a gauge set and dead headed HPOP yielding 1500psi.
Upon cranking i am seeing some smoke, i guess, but its kind of hard to tell from the drivers seat.
This is where i am at so far. I don't have a way to buzz test the injectors or tell if they are leaking past the orings. I have the valve covers removed, but i have been putting off pulling the injectors to replace the orings.
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When I start my truck it takes 30 seconds or so for the truck to start moving... especially when in reverse. If I give it some gas it doesn't take quite as long. I am not a transmission guy. I assume it has something to do with building pressure but I don't know what would be the cause. The fluid is full and looks good.
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OK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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My truck has been sitting for the last six months since my stroke and now the ABS light is on when I start it up. I have not looked into it yet but was wondering if it might just be dirt on the sensor(s).
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I am currently cab swapping my 2001 F250 with a 2005 350, I have everything installed but when I turn the key theres nothing... Dead in the water pretty much. I have power running to inside fuse panel but when I turn key there is nothing? no dash lights or anything, what I am missing or where I should be looking?
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I just replaced my power steering pump and gear box and I flushed the system until the fluid came out good. I have done the whole lock to lock and pump the brakes but nothing is getting better.
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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I have an early 03 F250 6.0 that won't start after I replaced all 3 FICM connectors, also # 8 injector pin and connector. It has been almost impossible to start before the repair.
I checked the grounds on
Pins #1 2 3 22 they were all .5 ohms
Pin #32 was 1.0 ohms.
Pins #7 27 were 12.7v ( battery voltage)
I have double checked all pin connections and wire colors, they are in the right holes, I haven't done any cranking voltage tests, as I am alone. The FICM has 48.2 v.
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