Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: CEL / Rough Running / Smoke Blowing When Cold
Mar 18, 2017
I had been fighting some problems with injectors for several years. I didn't have time to dig into it. I knew what I needed to do, just needed to find time to do it. I honestly thought it was and injector and thought I would have to go to new sticks because I've had so many problems with the remans.
Well I finally had time last week. I pulled the passenger side valve cover and ohmed the injectors. It would be almost impossible to get the leads in the injector while installed the truck. I kept an old valve cover harness, so I cut a pig tail off of it and plugged it into the injectors so I could test. You can see the meter attached to the pigtail in the pic.
To my surprise all four were all right around 2.7 ohms. You need to set your meter so you are getting a reading w a decimal. If you set it to high it will only show a whole number and it is better to have a more accurate reading.
I then plugged the wiring harness back in and tested it from there. The #7 injector gave over 6 ohms. This told me that my wiring harness was bad. I went OE and replaced it. I had a problem w a Dormant valve cover gasket before so didn't want to go that route. After I replaced the gasket and harness all my readings were under 3 ohms. They were all lower than w the old harness.
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I have a 7.3 that's running rough. Started it the other day it ran alright but started blowing white smoke. Bought a oil and fuel additive i was going to run through it. Came a few days later, it stated up and was real loud and sounding like it was loping. It blew a good amount of white smoke, but it just smelt like real heavy diesel. Now i can only turn it over and it won't start.
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7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?
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So,I am working on a 2003 F250 6.0 manual trans. all stock. 204,000 miles. I got it not running. Charged the batteries and pulled the 14 codes accumulated by the last people trying to work on it.There were cyl 1,2,5,6,7,8 contrib codes, P0403 and P0405 egr(the egr was unplugged when I got it), P0341 Cam pos., P0500 VSS, P0562 voltage low, P0683 glow plugs, P1378 fuel inj. ctrl., and a P1000. It is on it's second used car lot, no one can fix it and I don't know what they have done.
Cleared the codes, removed, cleaned, replaced the EGR, installed new batteries, and went over the wiring harnesses. I am down to the P1000, an occasional P0405, and random cyl 3, sometimes 2 contrib codes. If I warm it up and clear the codes, I don't get any contrib codes.
I hooked up the Scan Gauge and the ICP is 554-up cranking, starts without any long crank, runs at 644 at an idle, revs up and reads 2404 max. This is sitting in the garage.
The IPR was 14.8 to start off with, running mostly between 29.7 and 38. revving it up. The FMD is steady 48.0. I have run the buzz test both warm and cold- sounds good, no faults found. Have run the KOER and KOEO demand tests, no faults. There is no smoking. I have changed the fuel filters. I have not located an adapter to hook up my fuel pressure gauge.
As it is right now, it starts reasonably well (it's in the 20's here at night). It runs rough until the temp gauge gets to the top of the little thermometer symbol, then it runs better. The turbo sounds like it's operating as expected, nothing weird. Cold it has a rough idle and poor throttle response. Warm it idles well, with an intermittent light "shudder" .
The weirdest thing I find is the fuel pedal, when I rev it up warm, it won't come back to idle right away, takes 10-20 seconds. It also does this shifting. It does not rev up on it's own, and it will stick at any RPM. I did not find a value for TPS on my datastream on my scan tool (Auto Xray Tech scan 7000). When I let off the throttle the IPR and HPOP pressure drop. The truck was hardly driven for the last 7 years (6000 miles).
I have added some Archoil 9100, that smoothed out the warm operation even more, it drives perfectly down the road (300 miles the other day). I sent the FICM (the guys on the other forum insisted my problem sounds like the logic side of the FICM) to Ed, got it back, no change. I took a peek at the IPR, it is shiny and clean, the connector is tight and free of oil.
I removed and inspected the throttle pedal, it's seems clean and operational. It only has the cylinder contrib codes cold, and it is usually only one cylinder, that cylinder changes, first it was 8 a couple of times, then 3, then 2, now 7. Which injector could be bad and there is no smoke.
I guess the biggie here is to get the throttle to stop sticking. It runs better everyday, but the sticking could be dangerous. The rough running cold cold just be this engines normal. The light shudder at idle goes in 3-5 second increments- light shudder-smooth-light shudder-smooth...
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I have a 01 7.3 crew cab dually and it's had cold start problems since i got it in 09.I have replaced everything i could think of including glow plugs gpr,harness and batteries. Any temp below 40 i have to plug it in . If i cycle it 3 or 4 times it will start but it smokes and runs ruff. My 00 7.3 excursion starts up down to about 10 degrees than i have to plug it in so i know dually is not right.
I have a afe intake,1.5 injectors, driven diesel rr, adrenilin pump,dp tune by gear head. Kinda at wits end don't mind plugging it in in dead of winter but now one night it's 30 next it's50 and i don't have to . Also have fully built trans by level 10 if it matters .I get battery light coming on every now and again. New alt about every year and a half.
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My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
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SO, I've owned a 92 f250 7.3 for 10 years and it's got over 340k miles on it. Well, she is getting tired so I'm debating replacing the truck with a SLIGHTLY newer model.
I've found a truck that is a 99 7.3 powerstroke with a 6 speed manual and 260k miles. Knowing these engines I feel this truck has at least another 100k in it if the thing was somewhat taken care of. The issue is that the fella that has it for sale says it ran great for years and one day started blowing white smoke while driving. Other than this new issue it runs fine.
So my question is, what could be the issues causing the white smoke? I always thought white meant unburned diesel or maybe antifreeze. Head gasket comes to mind but it's not something I've ever dealt with.
I like that he parked it when it started having issues. Sounds like someone who doesn't completely trash their vehicles. Too high given the condition? Truck looks and sounds pretty good aside from the smoke, pretty reasonable condition.
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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01 7.3 247k.
Yesterday went to get on the freeway I looked back and saw a cloud of what looked like blue smoke. I'm in northern Utah and it's cold but the truck runs fine, I haven't noticed any change in performance. Turbo still builds boost. I pulled the fuel filter cap last night to check fuel color and it was clean.
I do have the CCV mod done. I also pulled to IC Pipe off the turbo and there was a little oil in there but not much, should there be any at all with the CCV mod? Where to start.
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Moving my worldly goods from California to Oklahoma in a rented 26' box truck with my wife following in our '02 F350 loaded to the gills with my lathe, mill, air compressor, weld and assorted machinery. Just west of Deming NM it started to blow lots of white smoke and down on power. Some rattling noises from the engine when throttled up & won't reach 3000RPM.
Had it towed to an impound yard for storage. Plan on sending a flat bed to pick it up when we get to Tulsa.
Any experience with a tilt back trailer capable of loading & transporting this truck that weighs around 17,000 pounds? My plan is to continue on to Tulsa & make arrangements from there.
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I have a 2003 F250CC 7.3 with 200,000 miles on it. I just purchased this truck about a month ago. My question is it blows black smoke. A little at idle but mostly when you give it any pedal. I have replaced all of the injector o rings and that didn't make a difference. Then I had it tested and it failed a CCT test on #2 cylinder. I have an injector to put in it, but am curious to find out if 1 bad injector would be enough to make it smoke all the time. I keep getting P1211 ICP pressure above desired. I had a friend of mine who used to work at a ford garage take a look at it with his computer and he said that everything looks good other than the CCT test.
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My 02 F350 7.3 new to me trucks ac stopped blowing cold. Not air gap issue (shims have been removed prior to my ownership-I pulled hub and checked), the charge is good (according to the shop I went to for evac and refill), and the compressor's cycling quickly. I'm no HVAC guy by any stretch. I have a cheapie gauge from days long ago that I connected to my low side port (which I know isn't definitive) and it reads from 25 to about 40/45 depending on the cycle.
Additional info that may not be anything:
1) Where the line goes from accumulator to evaporator the foam seal is slightly messed up and I feel ice cold air coming out of the housing.
2) The line is warm before the orifice and cold after it.
3) The lines going to the accumulator are both hot (after taking it to shop, before were lukewarm).
4) The condenser doesn't seem to have excessive plugging and I have rinsed it with garden hose sprayer with no difference.
5) The air from the vents blows good, just warm.
6) I've replaced the actuator for the blend door already.
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99 f-350 crew cab. The A/C is not blowing cold as it should. Have already replaced the compressor and clutch, orifice tube and accumulator, also cleaned evaporator coil and put a new blower motor on, also a new blend door actuator. Also put a valve in to block coolant from the heater core. System has had vacuum pulled and charged correctly by my mechanic, he says he doesn't know of anything else to do, that it was as good as its going to get. Ive been in 2 more trucks identical to mine and the A/C will freeze you out, as to where mine will not come close. Temp coming out of the vents barely gets down to 60 degrees
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I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
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I have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!
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2000 F350 with 340000 on it, have had it for the last 140000. It's an old service truck from south west gas with one owner in between them and me and he put about 5000 on it. I have the big cylinder open air filter, billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust all the way and an Edge tuner. Don't have any codes I can pull with the tuner. Have been good to me so fare only need regular maintenance, but always had smoke out oil filler with a little pulse.
2500 ago I changed oil and add 1/4 of Lucas oil. 3 days ago when I started in the morning it smoked white smoke out the exhaust as a steam train and idle rough, but cleared up as I went down the street and will do so every time I start cold or warm. Ok, might need new GP, did that yesterday yet the same. Now I start checking stuff and have smoke out the oil filler as a steam train so the cap won't stay.
I know it sound like alot of problems, just try to verify some of them. The smoke out oil filler is blow by? The smoke on start up is that related to bad injectors? Can a bad injector dumping fuel create the blow by? Coolant level ok Transmission fluid level ok Engine oil Rotella T6 added 3 quarter in 2500 miles. I do not have a scanner or any other advance test tools.
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When it is cold out side like 20 degrees I'm having problems starting my 2000 7.3 I'm cycling it about 5 times and misses smokes white for a bit then stays running I was thinking of changing out the fuel filter. What it could be?
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My 04 PS was blowin white smoke constantly while running. I just towed a uHaul from Connecticut to Virginia Beach and had some coolant issues on the drive down (I was out of coolant on 95 in PA, added coolant and it made the rest of the drive no problem). I got here to Virginia and it was low on coolant again. I added coolant to it, and now I have some other issues. I had what looked like oil comin out the stacks onto the bed, so I pulled the turbo thinking it was seals. But the turbo was just rebuilt prior to me buying it with a wicked wheel in it. It still had stock EGR and it has 202K on it.
Checked and found EGR valve was wet. Ordered an EGR delete kit, and just finished installing it. Now with everything put back together, the truck doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled the codes from my tuner and I got: P0403, P0405, P0683, and P2623. I know P0403 and P0405 are related to EGR but the others I'm at a loss on. The EGR delete kit I bought included the blank to remove the valve but what do I do with the plug that used to plug into it? Any way forward to get the truck back up and runnin again? This is my daily driver and not lookin to break the bank to get it goin again but I really need her to be reliable.
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I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
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I have a 2001 ford 7.3l powerstroke diesel. When I first noticed the problem I was towing a trailer going up a grade and got into the throttle almost to the floor and noticed a loss of power and the service engine soon light flashing extremely rapidly a few times and never came back on. I made it home, still lacking power but not running rough. I drove the truck to work the next day and the truck was running rougher and loosing power. It ran great through lower RPM's but seemed to trip as soon as you gave it over half throttle. eventually the truck wouldn't run right at all and lacked complete power. It idled rough as well. My mechanic threw the computer on it and it said injector pressure reading too high or too low.
I was told to replace the IPR on the HPOP and I did. (I also replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil). After replacing the IPR it ran great, had full power! then it began to slowly die like it did before until it sounded like it was running off 4 cylinders again. I pulled the ipr out, cleaned it and changed the oil again. It seemed to clear it up for an hour and ran great but then began ran rough again. I also replaced the CPS sensor. I feel like its not getting enough fuel or something, im just wondering if it could be the ICP or the lift pump. There is no check engine light at all. Its just got me stumped because cleaning the IPR clears everything up.... temporarily.
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2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
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