Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Buzzing Sound When Flipping To Switch To Signal Turning
Jun 25, 2016
After disassembling what felt like the whole front end of the truck, I finally gain access to the danged thing. Mine has been acting up intermittently for about year and half I guess. When flipping to switch to signal turning, it started making a buzzing sound. At first it was doing it most of the time. Then it cleared up and started working right for several months, then act up, the act right. Well, now it makes the buzzing noise more often than not so i decided to address it. I went to Oreilly, they didn't have one, but told me the part number.
I went across the street to Autozone, that had one on the shelf that was same part number as Oreilly. I put it in and when flipping the switch, the relay does it tick tock sounds like its working, except for there is no indication on the dash cluster that its working, nor are the actual lights working. I swap back to original and buzzing, put in new one and tick tock but no lights. Whats the deal? Is this one of those things that you have to go back to Ford? Or maybe i got a bum relay from parts house and should exchange for another to see if it works?
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I've been having an electrical issue for the past few months that I've decided to address now that the weather is getting a little warmer.
What happened is the left turn signal was blinking fast, so I assumed bad bulb, and later that day it stopped blinking fast and now I press the lever down to indicate a left turn and there is a quite loud buzzing sound. Sounds like it's coming from where the relays are, but I've replaced them and the bulbs and still nothing has changed.
I've also replaced the multifunction switch to see if that was an issue, but a new one did the same thing so I returned it.
Running lights work all around, but now there are no left blinkers, and also my left brake light doesn't come on. Pulling a trailer I have the same problem, I had the plug tested and only 3 of the pins have anything to them.
I know nothing about auto electrical systems.
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I've recently picked up a new noise. At idle the engine buzzes. It sounds like the vacuum pump running but coming from the engine (the vacuum pump is not running while this noise is happening). This noise could also be happening while I'm driving too but the RPMs bring up the engine noise so I can't tell. Nothing looks out of the ordinary and I haven't done anything different that would give me any direction (no off-roading). It was just there one day.
The truck doesn't seem to be running any differently (right now), just the buzzing. I just want to catch it if it's going to become something serious. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure (not to mention the towing bill!).
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I have had a 2000 f250 crew cab for little over a year now. Two previous times, after heavy rains, the cabin light would blink on and i would get a buzzing sound under the dash. I would solve the annoying buzzing sound by opening and closing the door. After a few times, it would work, but my clock and radio could go on without the key in the on position. The next time i used it, no problems... so i put that worry in the back of my mind.
This morning it rained really heavy, sideways type of rain. I opened the door and noticed a small puddle on the vinyl floors right where my left foot goes. OH,oh i thought, but the truck turned over and ran like normal. I picked up a heavy load of hickory in the bed and hopped back in and noticed my speedometer jumping from 0- 30 when I was going about 35. The OD light was blinking, but the transmission shifted normally. I got up to about 1700 rpm and the speedo was barely jumping at 53-55. I make another stop to unload the wood and go back home and i get an intermittent buzzing sound on the way home and no speedo. OD light would start blinking before i hit 2nd gear. I also noticed the odometer not working (speedo related, right?)
I got home and took the fuse relay cover off and found that if I would remove the #1 relay "plug" (black square box 5 prongs) that dreaded buzzing sound would go away, checked it out , plugged it back in, buzzing back on. The clock light still stays on and radio will turn on without the key. I think that water obviously leaked in over something electrical and i have been searching this and other forms for a couple of hours. I am within a couple of weeks of saving up enough to buy the gauges, exhaust and possible DP Tuner and now this happens?
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My friend and I were working on my truck and he was testing my AIH relay, as he was testing it the fuel pump was clicking on and off a few times over about 10 minutes. He explained that the current must be back feeding through the system and activating the pump. After testing the relay he determined that it non-functional / broken.
When we went to start it there was a strange buzzing from the fuse box area. After testing all of the fuses and then his code scanner not being able to connect to the truck we can only figure that the PCM is done.
The truck will turn over but not start. Any time the key is in the run position the buzzing noise is there unless you pull the PCM relay or the IDM relay. He says (I know very little about this stuff) that the IDM relay is trying to close but because the PCM is fried the IDM is not getting the signal to do so....?
So what now? Do I need a new PCM? He said something about it need to be reflashed to match the old one, is that right? Are all PCMs equal? What else should I know?
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Started truck, used windshield washer and noticed High Beam Indicator was lit on dash. Headlight switch not on. Drove to Ford dealer, turned off truck, high beams would not shut off. Dealer replaced the Turn Signal/wiper/High beam switch assembly. Dealer had one in stock. Service manager said they have replaced a few of these Switches. So if your High Beams come on without the headlight switch on you cannot turn them off even if you shut off and exit truck. Also the "You left your lights on warning chime" does not sound when you exit truck.
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I went on deployment and handed the wife to crank the truck up she did but didn't drive it so batteries didn't charge back up. I got them charged up and the truck cranked right up. I was plugging it in at night and it would start just fine the next morning. Then a week later batteries kept dying in a few hours during the day. Had to jump it again. then even when plugged in trying to crank it there was a buzzing noise and it would crank but not start. I bought new batteries and it cranked right up and drove fine until I shut it off and same problem and batteries were low again and it will crank but wont turn over. I am thinking maybe alternator.
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2001 F-350, 7.3L,
Has done this off & on for a few years and am tired of it! Noise is kind of a buzzing that seems to come from the flasher/turn signal relay. It stops buzzing when you turn on a turn signal, activate the flashers, or lift up on the shifter arm(?). Had to drive home yesterday with the flashers on! So I see from researching that it may actually be the multi-funtion switch on the steering column. So I removed that, cleaned up all the contacts, and put it back on and the buzzing did not go away.
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Recently my brother in laws truck started making a buzzing sound while running and a much louder sound after it shuts off. Trying to track down the sound. Listen to the whole video because the end is where it gets loud.
6.7 powerstroke strange noise - YouTube
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Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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I have an early 99 f350. when i got the truck the OD switch(maybe light too) didn't work. i ran it for about 1k mi. yesterday i left work to come home and i didn't have 1st or 2nd gear but still had 3rd and od. the only way to get 2nd is to manually put it in 2nd gear. 1st seems to be nowhere around.
I do not have a code reader and wont for at least a month or so. I did install a simple ts6 in it, that's about all i did with the truck.
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My ESOF crapped the bed as the truck was stuck in 4 Low. I took the transfer case motor switch off to access the gear underneath it.
I'm able to get vise-grips on it but it only turns clockwise. It keeps turning to a point it won't turn anymore and, if I let go, it will switch back to its original position.
I can do without 4WD until I get ESOF fixed, but is there a trick to manually changing it to 2WD?
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I seem to have a glitch in my ignition switch box or column. Most likely in the column itself. Whats the recommended course of action here? Contact cleaner and then white lithium grease in the column? Can WLG be used on the ignition switch box itself, that's bolted under the column?
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So was replacing my power steering pump get all done and my headlights start flickering and then stay on the switch is off it does have DRL on it but they have been unplugged for about 10 years what do I need to check
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All of a sudden, my turn signal won't stop automatically after making a turn. I read that the multi function lever needed to be replaced. I did, and nothing changed... what is wrong since its not the lever assembly itself?
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New to these trucks so a quick question on the window switch controls. I put power to the truck for the first time in about 8 years. First thing i wanted to do is see if the power windows worked. Everything went down very nicely but getting them back up was a no go from the driver seat. They all worked well seperatly but not from the pilots seat? Is it a typical issue with these trucks? When rocking the switch I can hear a relay under the dash panel close to where the access panel for the fuses. Mirrors work as well as do the locks. I pryed up the switch panel and un plugged it and reinstalled it with no luck. As it is I cant get the driver side window up or the passanger window up from the driver side?
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On the final stages of prepping my truck for sale. I noticed today that occasionally while making a right hand turn the signal light will not work when you put the lever in the locked position (no dashboard arrow to the right and no front/rear light). I can pull the stalk upward, but not lock it, and it always works correctly. I am thinking a bit of corrosion on a switch, but I thought I would check and see if others have run into this.
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I have a e99 f350 7.3 all stock. I have no power. The truck will crank for about 15-20sec before it'll turn over. I just purchased the*AE*but am fairly new to understanding it all. In idle its a little rough and when I drive I can only stay in the neighborhood because of fear of getting rearended due to very slow acceleration. Whats weird is that when i have no power while i am driving ill keep the pedal down throw it in nuetral and my rpms and*icp*pressure jump up right away. Things I've replaced:
Icp*sensor
Fuel pump
Pcm
Tps
Cps
Ipr
Dropped tanked and cleaned screens
When cranking my*icp*pressure climbs slowly to right under 500. I dont know what else to do ive been working on this truck dor two months some days 13hs straight, I am feeling defeated. Codes p1249 1211 1209....
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Not near my truck at the time and wondering if I can install one of these switches. I don't know where the 2 positive battery cables meet.
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I know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
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