Working on putting this project back together and cant find my notes when I pulled it apart last year. Any schematic or picture of their brake lines from the master cylinder to the rabs or front brakes? Better yet, which port on the master cylinder goes to what axle?
View 9 Replies03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
Got a 2002 7.3 f550 and the other morning it wouldn't go into high idle. Noticed my parking brake light was off. Messed with the switch and eventually jumped straight from the connector to ground... still no light. The light does illuminate with key on. I have tested the fuses. Where do I go from here? Looking for a wiring diagram....
View 14 Replies2003 Ford excursion 7.3. Above the drivers side front tire, the hard inner plastic made contact with the hard line above the frame.. Cut the line. I can't tell if this line is 1 piece towards the reservoir since its hidden from my quick inspection. Looking for a schematic on replacing this line?
This happened after my wife took the truck back to the sugar bush.. She must have been hitting jumps or something
I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
View 4 RepliesI need a wiring diagram for my 2000 F-350 power mirrors also to go along with the power window schematics that I posted before.
View 8 RepliesLooking for the wiring diagram with colors for which port should be what wire for the obd2 connector for my early 99 f-250. I actually think it is obd 1 on our trucks but you get the idea. My truck doesn't have power to the plug I guess. I have a guy plug in a scanner to take a look at everything but he said the plug wouldn't power up his scanner. Just trying to get this fixed. Another question, if I buy a AE does that require the truck to power up the software or does it get powered my the laptop?
View 11 RepliesI can't find a wiring diagram for the UVCH pigtail anywhere. The one that came with the harness assumes the old one was still connected. My wires were burned through and I need to know what colors to wire in from the truck to the new harness so everything matches up.
View 9 RepliesI am looking at putting a couple small LEDs in the pinch weld area under the doors on the cab. I want to have them come on when I open up a door. Where is the best place to grab power from the door switch circuit for that? The passenger side I was thinking of grabbing it where it goes into the sleeve between the cab and the door, but on the drivers side there are a lot of things in the way to get to that point. Can I pick it up down in the door jamb area? Is there a wire going to the dome light there?
View 8 RepliesAny pic or wiring diagram of the starter relay that is mounted to the fender. I'm trying to start the truck finally but it's just cranking and I think I might have mixed up the wiring. Is there supposed to be a constant hot at the glow plug relay when the ignition is off?
View 14 RepliesI have a new to me 1999 F250 with the 7.3 engine. The previous owner installed a push button start to get around the ignition actuator being broke. Over the weekend I pulled the column and replaced the actuator but the truck will still not start with the key; with the push button it starts just fine. I'm not getting any power on the starter relay signal wire, so I suspect something in between the key and starter relay. I searched around a bit, but could not find a wiring diagram for a 1999 diesel super duty.
View 3 RepliesEver since i bought my truck i have had a bad power steering whine. Replaced the pump and its still there. I got the truck in 2006 and think i replaced the pump in 08 maybe. Anyway I've purged, bleed, changed the fluid. Pulled a vacuum on it and still no luck. So I've just dealt with it for 11 years.
Well i can remember reading something somewhere about ford up-dating or redesigning one of the power steering lines that was causing this noise.
My father inlaw just bought a 02 and its so pleasant not to hear that when riding in his truck. It made me want to investigate the matter. SO if its as simple as a updated line I'm buying one asap. He got rid of his Chevy because of the reliability I've gotten out of mine.
I just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
Having trouble figuring out how to remove the rear fuel line from the fuel pump. Doesn't seem to be the type that uses the quick disconnect tool like the front line does.
View 5 RepliesAs explained in the photo annotations, I can't figure out how to remove this line from the radiator so I can remove the radiator for cleaning.
View 7 RepliesNew to me early 99 (4/98) f350 7.3 6 speed. Truck started acting up a few days after I bought it. Return line at fuel bowl was leaking, so started there and found a bad seal on the Fpr (unrelated to the fuel leak due to disentegrated compression sleeve). Fast forward through a bunch of parts swapping that still resulted in miserable lift pump pressure readings, I pull the sending unit out of the tank, expecting to find a plugged screen.
Well, there was in fact a plugged screen... Attached to the bottom of an in-tank pump. How did that get there?!? Everything I've read says there should only be a pickup tube??? Should I get a new sending unit from a junkyard and do the hutch mod or???
I bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
My HPOP was leaking so I pulled it our last weekend along with the fuel bowl and put all new seals in. All my previous leaks are sealed but now this stupid fuel bowl is being a major PIA.
The return line coming off the FPR will not stop leaking! It was slowly dripping when I first replaced the bowl and I thought the leak was between the fuel bowl and FPR housing. I ordered new rings and put it back together.... still leaking.
I wrapped a towel around the fuel fitting and realized that is were the leak is actually coming from. I went to the parker store today and got 3 new 60VL5 sleeves. The first one tore while sling over the fuel line (I was using 2cycle oil as lubricate). The second one leaked even worse.
In a desperate attempt to stop the leak, I slid the sleeve onto the fuel line as far back as it would go. I inserted the fuel line into the bowl and then put a thin coat of rtv on the exposed fuel line. I slid the sleeve over the rtv and then put a light coat of the outside of the sleeve. I tightened the nut up and am waiting for things to dry before trying again.
Why is this fitting giving me such a hard time? I've pulled the FPR housing and it is not cracked so I don't know what the deal is.
So changing the oil in my truck the other day, I noticed the exhaust clamp at the union between my down pipe and first section of my exhaust has been rubbing the trans cooler line and there's a Nick in the granny pan. Lookin at the rubber grommet on the hanger, its stretched tight and looks like the exhaust has shifted over. What could have done this or possible fixes?right by now it's got a gob of high temp silicone acting as a stand off. Don't wanna put the new line in until I have the situation remedied.
View 10 RepliesMy passenger side braided line from the HPOP to the passenger head decided to rupture. Got 300k on the clock so that recommended 100k change interval is on the low side. Do I need the 'special tool' to remove the line from the HPOP and what is the current recommendation on a replacement line?
View 14 RepliesMy rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.