Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Brake Lights Went Out
Jun 22, 2015
I was told today my brake lights were out. I checked and sure enough none of the 3 worked. I checked bulbs. Good. I checked all fuses. Good. I replaced brake switch on the pedal. Still no lights. What's next?
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I have checked all fuses, and swapped flasher from another truck. Could it be combination switch?
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I was turning left in my 01 Excursion and I think I hit the turn signal while doing so and tripped something. Now I have no turn signals and no brake lights. Headlights and tail lights work fine. I checked a couple of fuses under the hood that I believe are for turn signals, according to my manual they are fuses #20 and 22. They aren't getting any power, but the fuses themselves are fine. Is there another fuse somewhere to check? Or something else entirely?
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I have had the PSD about 2 months. It's a 2000 Ext cab LXT.
If you open the door, no lights. If the key is in the ignition and you open the door it buzzes. If you have the light on, the light around the door locks and window controls stay on after you turn off the truck until you open the door. The dome light never comes on unless you use the switch on the light. What's up with the darkness! This truck is like a cave! No under dash lights, no door lights no dome light! As for those red lenses on the door, no wiring, no lights no nada! Do the lights com on when you open the door? Any light?
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My 03 F350 lost the Brake Lights, and Code B1483 came up, which is the Brake Light Switch. Switch was replaced with new switch, with no change. The new switch was tested, and is working. The mechanic even replaced all the bulbs, which did nothing. The tail lights and turn signals work fine, just no brake lights. The mechanic even called the Ford Dealer in Boise, ID, and their service dept had no clue. What is everyone missing on this issue?
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Thought batteries were bad and replaced batteries truck started and ran. Shut it off and went to restart 30 minutes later and had no power what so ever like no batteries were in it. Put new batteries on charger the were full so hooked batteries back up and it starts. 10 minutes later same as before like there was no batteries in it. 2001 7.3 464,000 miles
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I have some LED strips i bought, some i am going to install under the door sills to light my nerf bars/steps. The rest i am installing under the bed rail to light the inside of the bed. I want them to come on with the interior lights. So when i hit the unlock button on my key fob, or open the door said lights will come on.
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I just noticed a small leak (red PS fluid) coming from the rear of my hydroboost in the truck (while working on my shift tube replacement this past weekend). The carpet is not wet, but there is a drip hanging on the rear end of the HB waiting to start leaking itself on the carpet. Also, there appear to be no issues with either braking or steering -- all is smooth, firm, steady, and quiet.
I have nearly 290K miles on the truck, replaced the Master Cylinder probably 8 years ago at roughly 150K miles. I no longer spend nearly as much time on the road as I used to (probably 8K miles per year now compared to a previous eight-year long run at 18-20K miles per year.
Questions.
1) Should I go ahead and replace the HB before it gets worse (I don't know how fast the fade when they start this process)?
2) If I replace the HB, should I go ahead and proactively replace the MC along with it since I'll have the whole system wide open?
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What happens if or when you get air in your brake lines and the air gets into your ABS pump/module? What are the symptoms? Anything other than a soft pedal? My ABS module keeps thinking one of my tires is sliding when i am driving and pulses my pedal and i am at a loss.
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I had my dash apart to install a radio. Didn't really mess with e-brake. Got it all put back together and light on dash is on. Where should I start to fix this? Is the switch with two wires hooked to the e-brake the only way the light can come on? I have worked it manually with no luck.
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A little background information is that I was towing a large gooseneck trailer about a year ago when half way to the destination the lights quit. Not just the trailer but the truck tail lights, turn signals and everything except the headlights. Well after getting there and unplugging everything it stayed the same. Well on the way home without the trailer the lights began working again. All the truck lights acted as it never happened. No blown fuses or anything.
Well things are are going ok since then but I can never get running lights to any of my 3 trailers to work. Turns and brake lights are fine. What gives? All the fuses are fine and the truck running lights work just fine. One thing I have noticed is that on my horse trailer I have the little led lights on the sides operational... I would have assumed these to be the same as the tail running lights.
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I have looked all over the Internet, but I can't find out how to change the lights on the dashboard. I have checked all the fuses. I have no clue have to check the dimmer switch. Though, the over head light does come on when I turn on the switch. All the lights for the check engine and such light up. The dash will not light up during the night. Someone told me that there should be a youtube video or a how to steps. I am very new to fixing my new to me truck. I have checked the how to steps on this forum and a few others.
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2002 F250 7.3 4WD Lariat 129K miles ... Brake lights come on when truck is off/no key ...
Ford replaced VSM in Nov. 2012 for this problem
Ford found rubbing wire upon pedal depression and re-routed wiring in April 2015, again for this same problem.
What gives. I'm hesitant to take it back to the Ford house... any theories??
Also, when ignition is in "on" position, transmission and coolant gauge register "cold". Upon starting, coolant stays at "cold" but tranny gauge immediately goes in to "normal" range. Shouldn't it also say it's still "cold"?
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I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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I tried to replace my brake master cylinder today but wasn't able to because of a plug
It's the black plug on the drivers side, the connector is upside down so I can't see how to unplug it I tried for an hour then got too frustrated I had to come inside
My Haynes manual says "unplug" obviously
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So I have my 2000 F250 in the shop because I was feeling a funny vibration in my brake pedal. (isn't warped rotors, I know what that feels like). It also felt like the brakes were on, then would release a little, lengthening my stopping distance.
I took it to a small local shop and the guy said it sounds like the hydroboost. I told them to fix it. Next day, before they start to fix, they call and say they can't guarantee it's the hydroboost and may be the Power Steering pump.
My question is; is there a way to test it to know for sure which part is failing? How do I figure out which one is causing the problem?
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Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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Working on putting this project back together and cant find my notes when I pulled it apart last year. Any schematic or picture of their brake lines from the master cylinder to the rabs or front brakes? Better yet, which port on the master cylinder goes to what axle?
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