So my outer axle seal went out on the passenger side again after only 4,000 miles. What gives!? I can't figure out why its burning up. My hubs seem to be working correctly. I've only used the 4wd a hand full of times since I replaced it. Any thoughts?
View 10 RepliesCan I re-use this shaft or is that ring around it no good. The ring is around where the bearing sits. It is a circumferential hump all the way around.
View 14 RepliesI have a 03 super duty 3/4 with 45000 miles. I have squeaking sound coming from the front end. My local ford dealer says ford has been replacing those front axle seals but the noise comes back.They said the fix is to keep a dab of grease on them of which I.m doing.That does take care of it for awhile but the squeaking does come back until I put a dab of grease back on them.
View 14 RepliesDo I need a special tool to put the outer axle seal on a 2003 excursion? I could make one if I new how far down it needs to be. I'm replacing the needle bearings in the back of the hubs and it looks like the last seals were not on far enough and the hub tore them up....
View 13 RepliesI just replaced my factory oil cooler again, and my bypass oil filter came loose spraying 8 quarts of oil all over under the hood.
This is the second time it has done this. Both times my wife was driving so i don't know how it was running prior to this.
Now i think my oil cooler seal to the block is blown again! Just like the last time my bypass oil filter came loose.
Could this be a symptom of another problem?
So a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
View 9 RepliesWell I just "did" the glow plugs on my recently acquired 99 7.3 and while 7 came out with no problem, one of them gave me more resistance when turning than expected and then "snap". Now here is the interesting part. What actually came out is the threaded top portion of the outer wall, while the rest of the outer wall and the electrode are still in the block. I have done a lot of searching and it seems that usually the electrode detaches from the outer casing and the entire outer casing comes out with only the electrode or part of the electrode stuck in the shaft (usually due to carbon buildup or swollen tip). In this case though, the outer wall of the plug sheared in two, which seems to imply that the outer wall itself is what is stuck in the shaft and not the electrode. The attached picture hopefully explains what I am trying to say.
I can easily latch on to the end of the electrode with some vice grips, but even if I managed to get that out, I would still have the outer wall of the plug in the hole. At the moment I just screwed the threaded part back in to keep the everything from blowing out so I could crank the truck. It cranked right up and seems to run fine. My inclination is to just leave it as is and hope that 7 good glow plugs will do the job, as I have some nightmares about making things worse in trying to make them better. Any chance of the electrode falling into the cylinder if this much of the outer case is still there? How to remove stuck electrodes, etc. but none on a stuck outer casing?
I picked up an '01 F-350 standard cab and bed plow truck for parts and am preparing to swap the rear axle into my E99 F-250 SB unless someone gives me good reason to just swap the carrier. I want the LS differential. I will also do hutch/harpoon on the tank so I figure that bed removal will make both jobs easier. Once I have both beds off I can give things a visual and see what lines and cables need to be changed out as well. I believe that there is a difference in the passenger's side caliper but I am not 100% on that and I don't know what I will need to change if anything. I am hoping that my drive shaft will remain.
Thus far I have gotten to rotted bed off of the donor truck. The bolts would not come out and I had misplaced my cutoff wheel so out came the torch. In the process of blowing the heads off of the bolts I also blew some holes in the bed but didn't care, it's scrap. Fortunately I did not blow any molten steel onto the fuel tank. I was able to lift the bed far enough to reach the light plugs in the rear and disconnect them without damaging them. The large one that is still attached to the frame goes to the trailer lights and could have stayed connected. The two smaller ones with ends up feed the tail lights and license plate lights, they have to be disconnected.
The bed is shot so I just hooked chains into the rear pockets and drug it off with the front end loader. I did have to get off a couple of times and unsnag it from the frame. Oops, and to cut off the fuel tank fill and vent hoses.
The bolts are extremely rusty and wouldn't budge so I cut them off.
The organ recipient has a spray on bed liner that I had to cut through to get to the bed bolts, the heads look like new and the bolts look like they will all come out for me.
And this is what the nuts and clips look like that mount the bed to the frame.
Yep, there is plenty of rust.
Also, I found two safety cables wrapped around the bed frame and main frame mid bed that will need to be disconnected before bed removal. These are on the E99 SB only, not on the '01 standard bed.
Well I just noticed the rear axle air vent and it is blocked.. I ordered a new one and will replace it once it arrives.. what can I expect once I replace it?
View 2 RepliesI am on the fence with getting rid of my 7.3. Here's why. Whenever I crawl underneath the truck or look under the hood I see all these different oil/fluid leaks. She has less than 200k miles and I use her to tow my boat to go fishing.
Right now I am trying to weigh if the truck is worth keeping or selling and then getting a new/newer truck.
Here are some leaks. One is obviously oil and coming from what I guess is the front main seal. I really don't know. The other leaks going onto the U-joint look like oil leaking down the axle from the front differential.
I'm growing a business and not sure if I have time to play mechanic. However, everyone I talk to always exclaims, "You got a 7.3?! You luck SOB!" and I am kinda getting the feeling letting her go would be a mistake. FWIW, she is paid off.
Other than a slight wobble in the steering wheel at speed, she runs like a hoss.
It's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
View 3 RepliesWhat is the procedure to remove the parking brake cable from the axle? It looks like the cable has a locking device like the fuel lines but heavier. How do you get that thing out of there without destroying it?
View 9 RepliesWell, get the engine running sound, then the drivetrain takes a crap on me. . . On my way home, about 60mph. Hear a noise from front drivers side. Gets to the point where I think I am losing a tire. Got out and checked the lugs, all clear. Got back in and the truck wouldn't move. Shifted thru all the gears, nothing.
Revved up to 1500rpm and it just sits there and shakes, like it wants to go but can't. No grinding or anything. Got a tow truck and as we were loading it, noticed that the front axle was rolling fine, but the rear was dragging. Tried it in N and D and it still wasn't rolling. Also observed drips on the flatbed and the drain plug on the transfer case was wet.
Praying that it is transmission, cuz I can just have them come get it and have it repaired under warranty. Heck its only got about 3500 miles on it. If its the hat to check? Ill be spending the rest of my evening on YT/Google. . . (Figured this was the right area to post this, cuz its a 99 7.3, I didn't see a dedicated drivetrain area so. . . )
I have a 2001 F-450 SD with 7.3. What the problems would for the blowing of fuse #3. The DLC fuse. I mean I know it goes to the cigarette lighter as well. but when not in use it still blows.
View 1 RepliesI am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
My 02 F350 7.3 new to me trucks ac stopped blowing cold. Not air gap issue (shims have been removed prior to my ownership-I pulled hub and checked), the charge is good (according to the shop I went to for evac and refill), and the compressor's cycling quickly. I'm no HVAC guy by any stretch. I have a cheapie gauge from days long ago that I connected to my low side port (which I know isn't definitive) and it reads from 25 to about 40/45 depending on the cycle.
Additional info that may not be anything:
1) Where the line goes from accumulator to evaporator the foam seal is slightly messed up and I feel ice cold air coming out of the housing.
2) The line is warm before the orifice and cold after it.
3) The lines going to the accumulator are both hot (after taking it to shop, before were lukewarm).
4) The condenser doesn't seem to have excessive plugging and I have rinsed it with garden hose sprayer with no difference.
5) The air from the vents blows good, just warm.
6) I've replaced the actuator for the blend door already.
As the title implies, that is my problem. Can't get the AC to come out of anywhere other than the windshield defrost vents. Y'all ever encountered this before?
View 4 RepliesThe heater fan stopped blowing the other day. The fuses check out ok. What would be the most likely culprit after that? relay? Switch? Blower motor?
View 7 Replies99 f-350 crew cab. The A/C is not blowing cold as it should. Have already replaced the compressor and clutch, orifice tube and accumulator, also cleaned evaporator coil and put a new blower motor on, also a new blend door actuator. Also put a valve in to block coolant from the heater core. System has had vacuum pulled and charged correctly by my mechanic, he says he doesn't know of anything else to do, that it was as good as its going to get. Ive been in 2 more trucks identical to mine and the A/C will freeze you out, as to where mine will not come close. Temp coming out of the vents barely gets down to 60 degrees
View 14 RepliesI had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
All vacuum lines are good, pump works, Canister isn't leaking, 4x4 activates and I can feel it, so Can't be vacuum leak. Replaced esof solenoid 6 months ago last time this happened, but this issue seems to be different. Watch this vid I made showing the issue.. after viewing video, do yall' agree I isolated the issue? If that one tug makes the air go through the front vents, that means everything else in the A/C mode selection works..
YouTube.....