Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Belt Screech Sound Coming From 38R
Jan 29, 2016
The last week or so I have been having a screeching belt sound driving me insane in my 2003 F-250 7.3. After further investigating I have found out it is coming from my 11 month old GTP38R bearing. It has an aftermarket billet compressor wheel in it and I sold the factory wheel when I installed the Billet wheel. Where to locate a factory Garrett GTP38R wheel? All I can find online are Billet wheels or random off brands. At this point I would even trade my Billet wheel for a factory 38R wheel.
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I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
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Leaving on a 200 mile trip in the morning and when checking the fluids, I found the serpentine belt trying to get off the AC pulley. I've put in on twice and it immediately jumps half way off when starting the engine. How long it's been doing this. Nothing is obviously loose or moved. What is likely causing this?
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3 and the belt is rubbing front edge of the belt and making a whipping sound at 65 mph. Have replaced tensioner, idler, water pump and a/c bearing & pulley.
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My 2002 7.3 engine makes a slow tap sound...
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So I've been getting a whining sound coming from the transmission area. I checked my transmission fluid and it's nice and pink so I checked my transfer case fluid… It came out like black watery gear oil! How bad is this? I am putting synthetic Dex/Merc back in it. It's got me a tiny bit concerned.
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Tonight on my way home I noticed a slight creaking sound, coming from front driver side, opening the window it was more noticeable. So when I got home I have tried to locate the source, it is the same with or without the engine running & you can hear it by rocking the steering just a little left to right. It sounds like a dry bush, I had my good lady rocking the wheel while I climbed underneath but couldn't pinpoint it, so I climbed up on the fender with my weight on the radiator support & the battery cover, when she turned the wheel the sound was almost gone but as soon as I jumped off it was back! I then tried rocking the truck from the driver side fender & the sound is there but not quite so pronounced, Any other way before I spray everything with WD40 (don't know if you have that over there but it usually quietens things like this!) There is no play on anything anywhere & the truck has only around 32k miles.
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I hear a whoosh whoosh whoosh sound coming from the exhaust when its warming up in the morning. What is happening?
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So my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
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I have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
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Having issues with seat belt disconnecting on its own? Ill be driving down the road and it just unbuckles......i figure its got gunk in it so I will and try and clean.... maybe spring is weak.
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Thought I had these bookmarked but not. What is the torque value for the 13 mm bolt , replacing the tensioner.
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About 2 weeks ago i noticed that the serpentine belt started shredding. I noticed it before it was all gone, so i parked it and started ordering parts before i did anything. Since i had to get the radiator hose off, i decided to flush the coolant, change the thermostat and the upper radiator hose to go around the belt. Once the parts arrived, I drained the coolant and did two flushes and tried to change the hoses and thermostat. the Gates hose ended up not being the right hose, in hindsight I should have used the old hose and put it back together.
But I returned the Gates hose and ordered a Motorcraft hose. not thinking, i left the system dry and possibly sitting with water from the previous flush. Three days ago, I got the correct Motorcraft part and did the work on Sunday. since it had been sitting, i decided to run another flush, i noticed a squeaking sound and that the water was coming out a little browner than when i left it. So I ran another two flushes and said to hell with it and put the whole thing back together and filled it with coolant and distilled water.
This morning, the squeaking sound was louder, but temps where fine and coolant level was fine. I drove to work ( about a 10 mile drive) and when i finally stopped, i got a whiff of coolant smell. I noticed coolant behind me and when i lifted the hood, i noticed the reservoir was half empty and coolant dripping down from the center of the block. I can still hear the squeaking, I figure the water pump is on its last leg and decide i need to go home. I walk in to work and let them know I'm gonna take the day off to situate this. Before i leave, i top off the reservoir with a gallon of distilled water and head out.
After a short distance I notice that the squeaking stops, now I'm terrified that the water pump just completely failed. (I've never had one fail on me so I'm not sure what happens when it does) As i drive home, I'm watching all my gauges. none of the temperature gauges spike, everything was normal for the drive home (another 10 miles) I park it and lift the hood and the reservoir is completely full. why is reservoir completely full? why would a leak like that stop? Should i just change the water pump? I don't want to just hope for the best, i do use my excursion to haul the kids from time to time.
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I was cruising along yesterday and felt the steering pump go out on the highway. Nowhere to pull over and pulling a big horse trailer. Three miles later I finally get to a wide spot to dive into. I look down and the temp gauge is maxed and the oil light is on. Most of the antifreeze boils out when I got the engine shut down. I had no choice but to have a friend bring a new belt and some antifreeze to the rescue. Got it changed and filled back up. Started and drove home fine.
I've got this twisted gut feeling about the whole deal. What kind of damage did I likely do? Things to look for? Did I just kill the longevity of the motor? I've been trying to do things right and treat it well to ensure a reliable truck.
On a side note the belt came apart in ribbons and it was absolutely shredded. The belt appeared to be less than 3 months old. No cracks or tears and a bright white numbers sticker on the back
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2003 6.0 F350... Under full throttle from take off goes about 20 mph just revs at 2500 let off the throttle in feather it shifts and acts like it wants to go just not allot of power sometimes. In neutral won't rev past 2700 rpms I do hear a screech from the turbo on acceleration and declaration. Also if in tow haul the truck won't shift at all. I can get it up to speed but even the smallest incline drops to 50 mph then takes bout 2 miles to get it back up to 65 mph or if I go downhill.... turbo makes the noise the whole time sometimes goes into passing gear in have to let off in it kinda my the truck hop in this is at 60 +mph. Only thing I have really tired was fuel filters and checked at plugs and boots.
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Awful belt noise that erupts during cold starts. I realize that this usually means a replaced belt. I want to know how to go along diagnosing which belt and then how to replace it. Here's the symptoms:
1. Awful belt screech when turned on, goes away within 20 seconds
2. Belt noise comes back when turning the wheel to back out of a right driveway
3. The STEERING WHEEL feels like it has no power steering WHILE the screeching is happening.
4. The headlights (when on) dim for about 3 seconds
5. All these symptoms happen when the temperature is below freezing and it's a cold start.
How is the belt screeching connected to the steering wheel being tough I turn?
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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So I am trying to learn how to use the forscan program. I find that it detected an open circut for th deleted intake heater, which I expected. It also found :
===ECS DTC B1230===
Code: B1230 - Driver Safety belt Retractor Low or High Resistance on Squib
Module: Electronic Crash Sensor
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Driver Safety belt Retractor Low or High Resistance on Squib
So that answers the the question about the intermittent airbag/ seat-belt lamp. How to solve this problem? BTW- This is a E350 SD Van ....
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I blocked off the hpop discharge tube to test for leaks, shop air. I am plugged into the oil rail drivers side, and keep getting a slight popping sound. The first time I did this it took ten minutes to start, so I replaced the top injector seals. The second time it did this after about four minutes, so I took the oil rail to the local shop and they did the ball tube orings in the rail, now I went to put it back on and it does it almost right away.
Am I just pushing the oil out of the injectors? is this normal or should I have NO air noise period? I guess I am not sure how these injectors work, where does the oil go after it enters the top of the injector? It seems like it's coming more from the top coil area, more so perhaps than under the oil rail.
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My power steering pump camp keeps coming off. Almost like it's got too much pressure. I'm stumped as to why but it makes a mess whenever it comes off.
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Pulled out of the restaurant I ate dinner at tonight and I lost most power and there's a loud air sucking sound. I felt around all the boots and didn't feel any air, but it was really hot and couldn't feel a whole bunch. It's a 2003 7.3 with 295k. There is a little smoke/soot coming from the turbo area, any chance that's related? I'm perplexed...
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