I was changing out the hydroboost and left the passenger battery connected, the positive terminal on the driver side sparked and now the trucks having a hard time starting? What should I check? Fuse or somthing else
View 12 RepliesGot new batteries installed yesterday and found that the passenger side battery has a nearly broken positive terminal. Had to handle it very gently.
Don't want to replace the entire battery cable just to get the terminal. Using bolt-on replacement terminals? What did you go with and where can it be found?
I'm not near my stuff--is the battery cable terminal bolt 8mm?
View 14 RepliesOur 2000 Volkswagen Jetta will sometimes not start, no lights/power on dash or anywhere, battery seems dead. But when we hook up jumper cables (only to itself) and spark the wires by touching the loose ends together, power is restored and the car starts and runs normally.
View 4 RepliesAfter replacing one of the HV batteries defective out of the 28 in my Gen 2, I reinstalled a working battery and the car won't start. With the car turned on, I went ahead and measured current on the HV battery side and get 220, and on the car side terminals there is no power. The service switch is working correctly and engaged. For some reason the voltage is not being relayed to the car side.
View 9 RepliesBattery light came on about two months ago it would flicker. So i had Auto zone check it out batteries were good just needed a charge. so i charged them no fix so i said alright ill do the Alternator did that and then beginning of this week it happened again so checked it went back got a replacement alternator since they said it tested bad. Put the new one on and didnt change anything. Check my batteries they were reading 10v each. I charged them and they wouldn't hold a charge. so i replacement both batteries.
So i have a new alternator and two new batteries light is still on. Contacted my tech (whose a friend) he said to check the wiring going to the alt he said both wires should read 12v on constant other when the key is turned on. Tested the constant it has 12v other reads 6-8v with key on.
He also said sometimes the wiring on the X pipe can short the alternator? i unhooked all the wiring from the Xpipe nothing changed per battery light being on or off. So what should i do.?
Also my dash lights don't work but that's been like that for awhile (bulbs are all good).. Forgot to mention sometimes the light goes off but seems to stay on 90% of the time.
I have an odd issue, 2003 7.3L f250 ... My battery light flickers on and off, I had the alternator tested at a alt rebuild sale place here locally, I don't always trust the auto zone techs, also had the batteries tested at interstate batteries. both batteries good, alternator good.
I think my connector is bad on my alt, not the one that goes to the battery, output is 13.8 to 14.1 btw......there is another connector that is a PITA to get off. I think it is bad, I played with it and applied some dielectric grease had the light go out when I wiggled it.
Can just the connector be replaced?
Is there a different battery box or better battery holder for the driver side without all the air filter housing stuff. I had an AFE Big boost filter and when I modified the stock battery box it still had the bottom section of the air filter compartment well after about 4-5 years I was cleaning the filter today and there was a hole rubbed in the filter from moving around and the pre filter is getting holes wore through it. So I cut the air box part off so now the filter will sit on the fiberglass stuff on the fender well. I ordered a couple of the new Blue Donaldsons from RiffRaff to replace the Big Boost filter. The modified filter box looks kinda like a hack job because all I had was a cut off wheel and the plastic got hot and now I have melted buggers all over it. I thought I saw somethin a long time ago about a battery holder out of a van that was just the bottom plate but can't find it anywhere now.
View 8 Replies I do run a small battery maintainer during the winter months plugged into a three way with the block heater. Alright after sitting out side for approx 9-10 hrs in 22 degree weather I did these checks. Battery voltages at 12.55V and 12.6V on batteries.
Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.
Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?
What gauge wires the battery cables are on these trucks? Son in law has some really corroded cables on the Excursion. I was going to pick up some welding cable and replace them, but a quick glance looks like different sizes for different cables.
Looking for a list of gauge and length for each one to save me a little time?
External LED hooked to GPR
I have gone through around 7 alternators in the past 18 months. I currently have a new NAPA alt and new interstate batteries. Today I noticed that my battery light is on again. I also noticed that my yellow squiggly Glow Plug inrush dash light was on at the same time. However, I do not believe that my GPR was active BECAUSE... I have an external red LED that lights up any time my GPR is active. When my GP dash light came on my external light was off. I had just driven 26 miles and my truck is warm and the outside temp is around 70 Fahrenheit.
My battery light come on this morning. The volt meter is sitting right where it always has though. I noticed that the battery light is kind of pulsating with rpm and at idle its very very dim.
E99 F-250 PSD ....
Where should I start?
In the last couple of days my battery light comes on after about 30 mins of steady driving. I have no starting issues as of late. Batteries have been tested under load and checked out okay. Alternator is a few months old. Other than the battery light coming on there no other
problems, yet. Is my alternator over charging? A couple of month ago my truck would shut off when I turned a/c or heater on in the mornings. My alternator was over charging. After I replaced it I had no more problems. Could any of this be related to the life time led bulbs that I'm using?
One of my batteries on my van is on the frame rail. The box rusted out so I routed the battery into the back of the van for now. The van wouldn't start because the batteries were low. I charged the battery in the front engine bay overnight but it did not charge the 2nd battery, does that mean there's a disconnect between the two batteries? I thought they were in parallel.
View 2 RepliesAlternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
2000 EX with 7.3 diesel 234000 miles. After several attempts to start the battery is to low and I get code 1670. I can jump it with a charger and it starts. Checked the battery cables and pulled the starter and had it checked at Advance. All checked ok. Don't know where to go from here. I think the 1670 code points to the IDM.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 f350 7.3l 4x4 and my battery light flickers randomly. I have checked the alternator and both battery's. All brand new and seems to be ok. They only are getting a charge when the battery light is flickering. I put both new batteries in on Thursday and on Sunday I needed a jump at the store.
View 7 RepliesNot near my truck at the time and wondering if I can install one of these switches. I don't know where the 2 positive battery cables meet.
View 6 RepliesBit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
View 14 RepliesI've been working through with hard starting on my 2002 7.3 A while back I took my batteries to Autozone and had them check them. They said they were fine but because of my hard/no start situation cranking on it for a short time (couple of minutes) kills the battery. The transmission shop said that they had to charge it after sitting for a couple of days to get it started. I have a multi-meter and know how to check the voltage. I even have AE and it gives me the voltage. Are there any other tools or procedures to check the health of the batteries?
View 14 Replies