Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Battery Light Flicker In Time With The Idle Of Truck
Jul 6, 2015
I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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Battery light came on about two months ago it would flicker. So i had Auto zone check it out batteries were good just needed a charge. so i charged them no fix so i said alright ill do the Alternator did that and then beginning of this week it happened again so checked it went back got a replacement alternator since they said it tested bad. Put the new one on and didnt change anything. Check my batteries they were reading 10v each. I charged them and they wouldn't hold a charge. so i replacement both batteries.
So i have a new alternator and two new batteries light is still on. Contacted my tech (whose a friend) he said to check the wiring going to the alt he said both wires should read 12v on constant other when the key is turned on. Tested the constant it has 12v other reads 6-8v with key on.
He also said sometimes the wiring on the X pipe can short the alternator? i unhooked all the wiring from the Xpipe nothing changed per battery light being on or off. So what should i do.?
Also my dash lights don't work but that's been like that for awhile (bulbs are all good).. Forgot to mention sometimes the light goes off but seems to stay on 90% of the time.
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My battery light come on this morning. The volt meter is sitting right where it always has though. I noticed that the battery light is kind of pulsating with rpm and at idle its very very dim.
E99 F-250 PSD ....
Where should I start?
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Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
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So for a while my truck sometimes and sometimes won't go into idle when I floor it and I've been trying to get the code and I finally got it it's tps high voltage so faulty tps??
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I've been working on my truck for months now on and off. I thought i finally had it back, but i have (again) problems with running. it basically only ran for a full day (hauling trip) after getting it back up and running. next day, it died on me on the road.
The new deal right now is that I can make the truck start and it will run, but it has little "hiccups" or misfires that will happen every now and then. Once it gets warm enough, the idling sounds chopped (best way i can explain it). After "chopping" it will then run fine (until the next chop). then it seems that once the truck gets warm it just stalls out. When that happens (shutting off) i can't get it to start right away. i have to wait awhile before it'll start and that lasts only so long.
The truck puffs a tiny bit of white smoke. not constant but more like a "puh - puh - puh" ....I've changed out quite a bit of used up parts now...
Turbo
Injectors & wiring harness
valve seals
IDM
ICP
IPR
CPS
MAP
fuel pump
vacuum pump
glow plug relay
starter relay
All the sensors are OEM. There's fuel in the fuel bowl, and the filter is clean. Plenty of oil in HPOP & oil level in crankcase is good. Have plenty of fuel.
Air filter is clean and fine. No codes. No lights.
2001 f350 7.3 320k on it.
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I just installed glow plugs, ucvh, stage 2 rosewood injectors, t500, ipr and gear head tunes. I have out 97 miles on the truck since all this was installed and the truck seems to run okay but has a rough idle and sounds like there is a mis? What should I look into first?
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So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
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First off, I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3L so I have a GPCM and not a glow plug relay.
I'm getting a P0683 code. My SES light is on all the time. I have a voltmeter plugged into the dash outlet and based on prior behavior, it is definitely not lighting the glow plugs now. The voltage isn't dropping enough. It only goes down to 12.35v or so when the engine is cold. This time of year, it gets to around 70 during the day and 45 or so at night so the plugs aren't strictly needed. It starts without any problem at all.
I'm not sure what could be wrong. The connections are all tight to the GPCM. I've wiggled and pushed them in as far as they go. I recently did a lot of work to the engine, including new injectors, glow plugs, 38R, etc. and I've never had this code before doing any of that work.
I've read a bunch of threads on it... is there any way to troubleshoot this, or do I just get a new GPCM? Can I convert to a GPR? I don't plan on having to pass CA smog as I'm probably moving at the end of the year.
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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2002 F250 7.3 4WD Lariat 129K miles ... Brake lights come on when truck is off/no key ...
Ford replaced VSM in Nov. 2012 for this problem
Ford found rubbing wire upon pedal depression and re-routed wiring in April 2015, again for this same problem.
What gives. I'm hesitant to take it back to the Ford house... any theories??
Also, when ignition is in "on" position, transmission and coolant gauge register "cold". Upon starting, coolant stays at "cold" but tranny gauge immediately goes in to "normal" range. Shouldn't it also say it's still "cold"?
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
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I have an odd issue, 2003 7.3L f250 ... My battery light flickers on and off, I had the alternator tested at a alt rebuild sale place here locally, I don't always trust the auto zone techs, also had the batteries tested at interstate batteries. both batteries good, alternator good.
I think my connector is bad on my alt, not the one that goes to the battery, output is 13.8 to 14.1 btw......there is another connector that is a PITA to get off. I think it is bad, I played with it and applied some dielectric grease had the light go out when I wiggled it.
Can just the connector be replaced?
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The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
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External LED hooked to GPR
I have gone through around 7 alternators in the past 18 months. I currently have a new NAPA alt and new interstate batteries. Today I noticed that my battery light is on again. I also noticed that my yellow squiggly Glow Plug inrush dash light was on at the same time. However, I do not believe that my GPR was active BECAUSE... I have an external red LED that lights up any time my GPR is active. When my GP dash light came on my external light was off. I had just driven 26 miles and my truck is warm and the outside temp is around 70 Fahrenheit.
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In the last couple of days my battery light comes on after about 30 mins of steady driving. I have no starting issues as of late. Batteries have been tested under load and checked out okay. Alternator is a few months old. Other than the battery light coming on there no other
problems, yet. Is my alternator over charging? A couple of month ago my truck would shut off when I turned a/c or heater on in the mornings. My alternator was over charging. After I replaced it I had no more problems. Could any of this be related to the life time led bulbs that I'm using?
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We have a 2002 7.3 f350 2wd this darn thing is now tripping me out. At first when ou start the truck its all good but when it warms up the idle is funky when you go to stop at a lite its like im power breaking and rough idle once stopped the idle is about between 800 and 900rpms at a stop really high idle but plenty of power on take off...
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So apparently even though the engine light is coming on and off it's not recording any error codes.I tried with my reader, one from Auto one, and then a better one at a local shop, none of them would show anything. The issue is it feels jerky when the light comes on(or goes off). Imagine cutting your cruise control off while it's accelerating and then immediately cutting it back on and that's similar to what it feels like. What could be the cause? I guess I might drive my wife to work tomorrow so I can go by the dealership in Atwater Ca (I'm a bit worried, the one in Yuma, AZ tried to rip me off for three grand).
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Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
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