Having searched I believe that I need to remove two torx screws from the back of the wheel to remove the air bag. These have that damned protrusion in the middle so I'll have to find and buy a torx driver just for that job. What size is it?
View 5 RepliesI know that to remove the lower knee panel under the steering wheel all that has to be done is to pull it off and the attachment snaps will pop free. However, How do I go about removal of the dash panel to the left of the steering wheel? This would be the narrow panel that also houses an ac vent, headlight and I believe it is the adjustable pedal control.
View 5 RepliesI can take one finger and spin my steering wheel full left and right. There is no Resistance at all. Very scary to drive. Would it be the steering box. I am supposed to be at a military school tomorrow need to fix asap.
View 4 RepliesInitially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
Just bought a 1999 F250 7.3 cab and a half standard 266k miles. The steering wheel is really loose. Not loose as in turning the wheel to turn the tires but like moment up and down and side to side. Are there bearings to replace?
View 4 RepliesSo I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
I'm trying to remove the airbag so I can get to the steering wheel lights to change them. I took the covers off of each side of the steering wheel, expecting to find T30 torx screws to take off so that I can remove the airbag, but there seem to be no screws at all holding it in! Am I missing something here? Will have pictures in a couple minutes.
Not sure why my pictures aren't working, here are the links :
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Steering wise, it seems very likely that I'm due for a steering box. Lots of slop when I turned the wheels back and forth. Also, as per the seller, it seems like the the wheel bearings and ball joints are in good shape.
The sway bar end link bushings are smoked, so those need replacing. As for oil leaks. I'm thinking it would be best to pull the motor. It looks like this engine has had the pan off, but I do believe I have a front pain leak. The crank case breather is going into the intake which is annoying. And I believe the intercooler is full of oil, explaining the mystery oil leak by the passenger side intercooler boot.
Couldn't see any oil in the valley of the motor but I see oil coming down the down pipe of the exhaust, out the bell housing of the motor and dripping from a weep hole maybe 8 inches down the transmission as well? Seeing as to how I'm not sure what clutch I have, it make sense to pull the trans. And If I have the dreaded oil pan leak and a intercooler full of oil, why not just pull the motor? I'd also like to trim out the front panel for 05+ head lights and clean up the wiring on this thing. Found a cheesy electric compressor for a small horn. Sounds like a clown horn, no kidding.
Just recently i have noticed my truck acting up. the other day at about 10 to 20 mph i made a 90 degree turn and noticed my steering wheel wouldn't return but i had to bring it back. than this morning the same thing happened. I made a 90 degree left hand turn and it happened again. the truck wanted to keep going left but i kept turning right. it almost feels like my power steering pump is going out. The pump was changed about 4 years 90k miles ago. I'm curious to see what others have to say. What could it be????
View 14 Replies2001 F350 XL... Fitting on PS pump broke and I lost PS and PB with fluid everywhere. Replaced the hose with a new one from Autozone and I have no noticeable leaks.
I know I lost more than a quart but I could only add less than a quart (Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF). I'm also getting a whine from the steering wheel when I turn stop to stop. The power steering is back and there are no leaks (that I see) but the brake pedal is mushy. I've pumped and turned stop to stop for a while. Do I have to bleed the system like I'm doing a fluid flush? I hate to waste the synthetic fluid that I changed about two years ago.
Ok, so I leave the fire station this morning headed home and my steering felt weird. About 1/2 mile from home I hit a bump and my drivers side front wheel started making a screeching noise. I stopped and looked out the window and it appeared fine. I limped home and as I pull in the driveway, I lost all my steering. I look under the truck and this is what I found.
Not sure what to do. This is my daily driver and neither of my 2 mechanic friends will answer their phones.
A while ago (1 yr) I read and did the pull the wire thing to keep the lie o meter bright all the time. It worked fine, but all of a sudden it seems dim. I can barely read it in the day time. Fine at night. Could it be that the LED's are starting to fail, or some other weirdness? How to remove the overhead console?
View 12 RepliesI want to remove my whole dash to paint it but i cant figure out what is holding it in,i removed all the black screws from one side to the other the screws under the tabs by the windshield and it still feels like its being held in somewhere underneath?
View 14 RepliesHaving trouble figuring out how to remove the rear fuel line from the fuel pump. Doesn't seem to be the type that uses the quick disconnect tool like the front line does.
View 5 RepliesI have a 99 SD 7.3 with 210K miles. It has the OE water pump, clutch and fan. I am replacing every thing from pump to fan including pulley, thermostat and sensor. The question is can every thing be removed as a unit? I don't see why not but never did one that way.
View 14 RepliesSo I have a replacement steering column for my truck and need to swap out lock cylinders. My question is; since there is NO key, is there any way to avoid drilling out retaining pin. If I did drill it out am I entirely screwed'?
View 14 RepliesI'm getting ready to swap my clutch and got to looking at the slave cylinder. I read somewhere that you have to rotate and twist it to get it out? Or something else? Also after reinstalling how do you get the slave plastic piece cut that holds the rod in? Or do you just push the clutch?
View 4 RepliesWhat is the speed you have to be driving before the airbag will pop off in the event of a frontal collision? just wondering.
View 5 RepliesEvery time I start the truck, the Passenger Side Airbag light is on, which is saying the airbag is turned "OFF." I have to push the button to turn the light off, which turns the airbag "ON." How do I reset this to where the airbag is "ON" until I turn it "OFF?"
View 8 RepliesI managed to get the drivers side exhaust manifold and all of its bolts off no problem. On the passenger side I had 1 bolt head that was already broken and I have only 1 other that is still holding on for dear life. I've been soaking it in aerokroil for awhile now and no luck. I tried some PB blaster today because I am willing to try anything. I also tried heating up the bolt with a torch and some map gas but not sure if I am heating it up enough or not. Anyways, everything else has been going great, got the uppipes off and the valley, turbo and pedestal all cleaned up good. Just need to get the last whole bolt and broken bolt out so I can install the new manifolds. What I should try to remove the last 2 bolts. How hot should I get the bolt when trying to remove it? Or should I be heating the engine block?
View 12 RepliesI'm trying to replace my transmission output shaft seal on my 2wd and I can't seem to get the seal removed. I couldn't find anything to rent from O'rielly's or Advance Autoparts that would work. It's in there really tight ....
View 10 Replies