Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Adding USB Power To Rear Of Cab?
Feb 20, 2017
Was thinking of running a USB to each of the back doors (through the flip out ashtray) in my crewcab. Was looking at using something like this.
View 14 RepliesWas thinking of running a USB to each of the back doors (through the flip out ashtray) in my crewcab. Was looking at using something like this.
View 14 RepliesI'm currently adding some hideaway strobes into my 02 POV and was wondering if any good place to enter wires from the rear of the vehicle? I'm not wanting to drill any holes and worst case I'll go through the firewall with my other runs and run down my door jam. All my connections are behind my rear seat.
View 6 RepliesI am going to add some led's to illuminate the steps getting into my truck at night. I plan on putting them directly under the door over the steps. Is there a wire under the door threshold I can tap into at each door? If so what color? If not, where to get the power from. I want them to turn on and off with the interior lights when doors are opened.
View 1 RepliesOk, I am looking to update to the square style mirrors with turn signals (nothing else) is this possible and is the wiring for my E99 already in place or would I need to add any thing else? Here is a link to the mirror set I am looking at :
99 15 Ford F250 Rear View Tow Towing Mirror Manual with Functional Signal Pair
Is what I am wanting to do possible, I know I could wire in the auto folding style with the stupid add a fuse crap and a button (easy enough)... or these...(power fold). [URL] ....
I have a 2000 F-250 super duty. It's a 7.3 and Powerstroke. Replaced my fuel filter and when i removed old one fuel is solid black. Needless to say, filter didnt solve my problem. Checked oil it was bone dry. A couple days ago it was topped off. Added 2 gallons of oil to get it home (less than 2 miles) and parked it until next morning. Check oil again and bone dry, no oil spots on driveway or engine block.
View 4 RepliesI first saw them on the 2013 build and price and was thinking that I should look into adding them to my 12. I never got around to looking up part numbers. So, recently I thought of it again and after a little poking found that they could be had as a Ford accessory kit for around $110 depending on your dealer. MSRP is 133 I think. So, I hit the dealer and grabbed a set they had in stock. Install took 30 minutes. Very easy. They give the wheel wells a finished look and offer lots more protection than the small plastic strips on the rear that came with the truck. A hundred or so bucks well spent if you don't have them. There are aftermarket ones that are a touch cheaper on eBay by Rugged Liner but they don't work with the 5th wheel prep which I have.
View 14 RepliesSometimes doing your own work gets pretty irritating. I just got done with my drive hub and was rotating the tires when I noticed my rear brakes need replacing. Got it all apart, no real issues until the simplest part.
Take a look at this picture. The rotor (brand new) is touching the edge of the caliper and the brake pad is too large on the immobile side. These are Duralast Rear pads from Rockauto. The rotors are for the rear but some other brand, also from rock auto.
2001 7.3L 307,000 miles.... I have a couple of injectors pretty close to failing the buzz test.
I'm a shade tree mechanic - I've done the oil cooler, changed the radiator and belts etc how easy is the injector change? The bit that bothers me is the oil draining into the rear cylinders and ensuring that I don't hydraulic lock something. Do I need any special tools? Should I just take her to Diesel Innovations in Houston and let them get on with it ....
The rear differential on my truck has been whining for the 2 years I've owned. The fluid has been changed but of course that didn't really solve anything. I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild it. Was looking at buying the USA Standard brand rebuild kit, ring and pinion, and axle bearings and seals. How hard would/will this be to do myself?
View 4 RepliesI noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
View 9 RepliesHaving trouble figuring out how to remove the rear fuel line from the fuel pump. Doesn't seem to be the type that uses the quick disconnect tool like the front line does.
View 5 RepliesWell I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
...when changing the fluid and RTV'ing the rear differential cover?
Usual suspects: Brake cleaner, Simple Green, soap and water, gasoline, etc.
I've never serviced one, but figure it is like this:
1. Drain
2. Remove cover
3. Spray, clean, rinse, whatever all the innards
4. Wipe and dry
5. Inspect. For what, I have no idea
6. Black RTV cover back on, replace drain plug, remove fill plug
7. Refill with 75w-140w Mobil 1 Synthetic (not sure what it is, but I looked it up here some time ago and bought enough)
8. Fill to within a finger tip's dip in the fill hole
I've had the RTV and oil for a while, but it's supposed to hit 59F here on Saturday with no rain!!! Time to crawl on the floor and get it done.
I didn't see any problems with my cover, so going to forgo the new aluminum finned cover this time
Guess the biggest question is what should I use to clean/flush the rear end?
This is 2002 Excursion WITH LSD rear differential. 4WD.
So my brother in law calls me because he is stuck in the mud. I back up to hook up to him. One rear tire slips into the muddy rut. Other tire is on dry hardpack. The tire in the mud spins non-stop. The tire on the hardpack wont move.... I feather the brakes as I have read it will engage the truetrac. Nothing.... Is this thing junk? I was super ticked off. How do I test the truetrac to see if it still works?
View 13 RepliesI picked up an '01 F-350 standard cab and bed plow truck for parts and am preparing to swap the rear axle into my E99 F-250 SB unless someone gives me good reason to just swap the carrier. I want the LS differential. I will also do hutch/harpoon on the tank so I figure that bed removal will make both jobs easier. Once I have both beds off I can give things a visual and see what lines and cables need to be changed out as well. I believe that there is a difference in the passenger's side caliper but I am not 100% on that and I don't know what I will need to change if anything. I am hoping that my drive shaft will remain.
Thus far I have gotten to rotted bed off of the donor truck. The bolts would not come out and I had misplaced my cutoff wheel so out came the torch. In the process of blowing the heads off of the bolts I also blew some holes in the bed but didn't care, it's scrap. Fortunately I did not blow any molten steel onto the fuel tank. I was able to lift the bed far enough to reach the light plugs in the rear and disconnect them without damaging them. The large one that is still attached to the frame goes to the trailer lights and could have stayed connected. The two smaller ones with ends up feed the tail lights and license plate lights, they have to be disconnected.
The bed is shot so I just hooked chains into the rear pockets and drug it off with the front end loader. I did have to get off a couple of times and unsnag it from the frame. Oops, and to cut off the fuel tank fill and vent hoses.
The bolts are extremely rusty and wouldn't budge so I cut them off.
The organ recipient has a spray on bed liner that I had to cut through to get to the bed bolts, the heads look like new and the bolts look like they will all come out for me.
And this is what the nuts and clips look like that mount the bed to the frame.
Yep, there is plenty of rust.
Also, I found two safety cables wrapped around the bed frame and main frame mid bed that will need to be disconnected before bed removal. These are on the E99 SB only, not on the '01 standard bed.
So last year I pulled the motor and put a new pan on. Since then the oil has leaked from the rear lobe at the back of the pan. No oil leaks up top of engine. So I pulled the tranny and am going to put in a rear main. I also see a plate that bolts on the back of the motor and the bottom glues to the pan. I am concerned I did not glue the pan well enough in the lobe as only about 1.5 inches of the lobe has a small amount of grey rtv sticking out. How do I remove the aluminum mount on back of motor that the tranny bolts to? What seals the plate? Oring? Gasket?
View 2 RepliesAfter checking my fuel bowl today for contaminants, I put the lid back on and then noticed a leak from the rear at drain valve. I know, I already ordered the orings. It was doing one drip about every three seconds with the truck running. However, I turned the yellow thing a couple times and the leak stopped. Not leaking right now. Maybe it wasn't shut from previous owner.
Second question.....After stopping leak and after routing my fuel drain hose, I decided to give it a try. No luck. Nothing out or drain. Based on my first fuel filter change, it may be clogged up. So, do I run wire from the bottom up? Or do I run wire from top (bowl) down? Just so you know, sucked the bowl dry with a vacuum device before I reinstalled the filter.
I recently purchased a 2001 excursion 7.3 after driving it for a while I have noticed a significant clunk and vibrate in the rear end. I have read a lot of people saying it could be the slip yoke needing lube which I intend to do but most are saying that their clunk is at start and stop.
Mine is between 30 and 60mph when I let off the accelerator I get a clunk followed by a vibration and when I get on the accelerator it is just the clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke to yall or am I looking at something more? I have tried turning the drive saft and there is no play in it at all.
I'm fresh out of the perverbial womb to this place and only about a toddler when it comes to my truck. However I do want to learn! I just recently invested in an 02 XLT F350 7.3L. I'm in love with the truck except the leaning forward aspect. I am debating on leveling it via lowering the rear. Any thoughts? Things I need consider that will happen if I do? How would you do it? Would you do this over raising the front? I've heard raising the front can mess with the suspension geometry and that's not a good thing to do!
View 10 RepliesWell I just noticed the rear axle air vent and it is blocked.. I ordered a new one and will replace it once it arrives.. what can I expect once I replace it?
View 2 RepliesPretty sure my rear plug is leaking on my HPOP. It has a nylon washer under it which is different than what I have seen on all the write ups. I bought the truck with 189k on it five years ago.
I attached a photo....