Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Adding LEDs - Wiring Harness?
Dec 29, 2015
I am going to add some led's to illuminate the steps getting into my truck at night. I plan on putting them directly under the door over the steps. Is there a wire under the door threshold I can tap into at each door? If so what color? If not, where to get the power from. I want them to turn on and off with the interior lights when doors are opened.
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As it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
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I am looking at putting a couple small LEDs in the pinch weld area under the doors on the cab. I want to have them come on when I open up a door. Where is the best place to grab power from the door switch circuit for that? The passenger side I was thinking of grabbing it where it goes into the sleeve between the cab and the door, but on the drivers side there are a lot of things in the way to get to that point. Can I pick it up down in the door jamb area? Is there a wire going to the dome light there?
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Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
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My 2000 f350 has wires that dont match anything I've seen. I need to mate this to an 08 harness so I need to be accurate. I have
(2) yellow. I know this is 12v constant
(2) green/purple I know this is 12v constant
(1) red/black
(2) solid red
(1) solid black
(1) gray/light blue
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I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
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Is it possible to add the decent control if my truck didn't come with it? Is the harness already wired for it and the computer programmed for it or would I have to get it reprogrammed and get a new harness?
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Need to know the Ford part number for cab light wiring harness? I am wanting to install some LED cab lights but I do not currently have any so I will need the wiring harness.
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First I lost the power window functionality in the rear left door... didn't think too much of it, then I lost the power door lock functionality, which was bad because I was assuming my door was getting locked when it wasn't actually. Pulled open my door this evening and found this:
I think my truck overheard me when I was saying "I like a good electrical problem, those are my favorite." I'll solder it up to get it working tonight, and then I'll see what a new harness costs... although really they should have used ultra-fine-strand wire with silicone insulation for an application that sees lots of flexing.
My multimeter's test leads are such an example of wiring that is intended to see lots of flexing.
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My dumb self cut my factory harness to install a radio and after hooking up said radio (which I know how to do) it popped a fuse. So to avoid any trouble I need to put another harness in but again with my stupidity I cut the wires too short. finding the correct harness
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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Looking for an electrical schematic and or wiring diagram of the windshield wiper circuit for a 06' Super Duty?
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I need to connect a remote start stop for a bucket truck attachment to this new 2016 F550. Found everything except the ignition wiring harness diagram. Need to know what I can tie in to.
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While engine was running. brake switch "recall harness" shorted to exhaust manifold blowing fuse 22. truck died instantly. found the short and replaced fuse. checked all fuses good but no start since. WTS indicator stays on. tried a new GPR and a new CPS.
Does IPR and brake switch (on master cylinder) share fuse 22? fuse 22 holds now (when wire was fused to exhaust manifold it blew as soon as key turned on). unplugged FBH no change. recall harness "beeps" good and wires do not appear burnt. also shuffled relays around in central junction box.
Could formerly access OBD2 port with superchips programmer but no access now. fearing the worst, but hoping maybe bad ipr sensor (or another sensor) could cause this. Is it likely or not that this short fried the PCM?
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Was thinking of running a USB to each of the back doors (through the flip out ashtray) in my crewcab. Was looking at using something like this.
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As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
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I have what might be a big problem, the main harness on top of the drivers side valve cover I can't get undone, the bolt holding it together is stripped or the nut who knows? wondering if there is any way to take it apart otherwise.
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I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
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Had to change the UVC harness on my 2001 7.3. Truck fell out. Trailered it home and changed the UVC harness on the passenger side. Truck is running great, but now the OD light is flashing. Can't read transmission codes, but was wondering if something from the bad harness could have caused this? Any thoughts?
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Ok, I am looking to update to the square style mirrors with turn signals (nothing else) is this possible and is the wiring for my E99 already in place or would I need to add any thing else? Here is a link to the mirror set I am looking at :
99 15 Ford F250 Rear View Tow Towing Mirror Manual with Functional Signal Pair
Is what I am wanting to do possible, I know I could wire in the auto folding style with the stupid add a fuse crap and a button (easy enough)... or these...(power fold). [URL] ....
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I have a 2000 F-250 super duty. It's a 7.3 and Powerstroke. Replaced my fuel filter and when i removed old one fuel is solid black. Needless to say, filter didnt solve my problem. Checked oil it was bone dry. A couple days ago it was topped off. Added 2 gallons of oil to get it home (less than 2 miles) and parked it until next morning. Check oil again and bone dry, no oil spots on driveway or engine block.
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