Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Adapt 7 Connector Plug To Aux Power?
Aug 30, 2017
On the back of my truck I have two plugs to operate trailer lights/brakes etc but I only use one. The one I'm not using (pictured) I'd like to adapt for aux power in the trailer to operate some IP cameras. I need to know about the pin outs of this connector and what gauge wire to use between the trailer and truck. I plan on running the 12V and ground conductors from this plug through an adapter into the trailer.
In the trailer I'll have a 1000W inverter --> UPS --> TL-WR810N Router --> TL-SG1008P POE switch --> and 4 small ip cams.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Looking for the wiring diagram with colors for which port should be what wire for the obd2 connector for my early 99 f-250. I actually think it is obd 1 on our trucks but you get the idea. My truck doesn't have power to the plug I guess. I have a guy plug in a scanner to take a look at everything but he said the plug wouldn't power up his scanner. Just trying to get this fixed. Another question, if I buy a AE does that require the truck to power up the software or does it get powered my the laptop?
View 11 Replies
Do all New trucks come with the factory clearance light plug-in-connector and if so, where would it be located? The reason I ask, is I'm considering adding the cab clearance lights to my 15 F350. Really would like the factory lights but I hear Recon makes some similar.
View 14 Replies
I need connector pinouts and wiring diagrams for a 200 7.3
Multifunction switch
Headlight and dimmer switch
Airbag
Ignition harness
Any other column connectors...
View 1 Replies
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
View 14 Replies
I tried a steel with rubber insert washer, but it still leaks. I might have overtightened or something. It seemed good for a while. Who has a solution for this leak?
View 14 Replies
I broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
View 7 Replies
I'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
View 6 Replies
I will be changing all the glow plugs in a few days. Should I re-torque the head bolts or anything while I am in there? Don't want to button it back up and then wish I had done something while in there.
View 14 Replies
I've read what little information I can find about making a glow plug bypass, but everything so far applies to trucks with glow plug relays. Since mine is an Excursion I have a GPCM instead of a relay. How I might accomplish this?
View 3 Replies
Pretty sure my rear plug is leaking on my HPOP. It has a nylon washer under it which is different than what I have seen on all the write ups. I bought the truck with 189k on it five years ago.
I attached a photo....
View 2 Replies
My fuel bowel drain valve is leaking again. I plan to do the hutch mod in the next month or so. Have the kit already. So I can't do the fuel bowel delete yet. it seems one of the mount holes for the drain Valve is stripped. The top rh screw won't snug up. I swapped out the orings and it still leaks. I'm sure it's from that screw. So I'm thinking about a flange bolt and an oring from the inside of the fuel bowel. It's going to be a temporary fix.
View 2 Replies
Well I just "did" the glow plugs on my recently acquired 99 7.3 and while 7 came out with no problem, one of them gave me more resistance when turning than expected and then "snap". Now here is the interesting part. What actually came out is the threaded top portion of the outer wall, while the rest of the outer wall and the electrode are still in the block. I have done a lot of searching and it seems that usually the electrode detaches from the outer casing and the entire outer casing comes out with only the electrode or part of the electrode stuck in the shaft (usually due to carbon buildup or swollen tip). In this case though, the outer wall of the plug sheared in two, which seems to imply that the outer wall itself is what is stuck in the shaft and not the electrode. The attached picture hopefully explains what I am trying to say.
I can easily latch on to the end of the electrode with some vice grips, but even if I managed to get that out, I would still have the outer wall of the plug in the hole. At the moment I just screwed the threaded part back in to keep the everything from blowing out so I could crank the truck. It cranked right up and seems to run fine. My inclination is to just leave it as is and hope that 7 good glow plugs will do the job, as I have some nightmares about making things worse in trying to make them better. Any chance of the electrode falling into the cylinder if this much of the outer case is still there? How to remove stuck electrodes, etc. but none on a stuck outer casing?
View 9 Replies
OK, what does a glow plug control module do? The short bus I got has one on it. It looks like it fits right into the circuit without much, if any, modification. I got one with my short bus and am curious if it would be something worth adding to my pickup. So...what does it do and could I/should I install it?
View 4 Replies
Doing oil cooler. Block heater plug is very tight. Is it reversed threaten?
View 1 Replies
Here are the details. Just replaced my HPOP, IPR and ICP and while driving at 75mph I hear a loud pop under the hood. Several seconds later CEL comes on and I have no power and the engine is shutting down as normal. I pull over, get out and there is a massive amount of engine oil everywhere, I get it and the first thing I look for is the HPOP area and the "non-serviceable" plug is GONE.
I was able to find the metal piece that goes in between the plug and the ball, but no ball. I find the dimensions of the tiny ball (.25") and replace it. I order the long thread fix from RIFFRAFF install it and now I have a no start issue. While waiting for parts I change the oil and filter, clean the oil soaked engine and pray that nothing else was messed up. I do not have an AE or OBD-II, the truck has 300k on it....
View 14 Replies
I just replaced the glow plugs, gpr, valve cover gasket and harness. When cooled down, cranks but won't fire. Smoke DOES come out the tailpipe. If I plug it in for awhile it fires right up. What else can I do or check?
View 5 Replies
Installed Tekonsha P3 on my 2000 F350 I used the recommend pig tail easy hookup when I press brake pedal no voltage at plug but when I move the manual lever I get voltage. I believe the stop light switch activates it. The fuses all check out. I did have a Banks engine brake installed by their people I don't know if makes a difference
View 8 Replies
Air Intake Heater Plug Code Eliminator P0541
In conjunction with the AIH Delete Plug??
View 14 Replies
I have no ground to glow plug solenoid, wiring is ok right up to the computer. Where I should go from there?
Its a 2001 E450 PSD. glow plugs not coming on at all.
should I be checking an engine temp sensor?
I don't have a wiring diagram so I am going in somewhat blind. ]
View 14 Replies
Here is what's going on. A few days ago I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop and come back up as I was shifting from reverse to drive. Then a few days later on my way home from work I noticed that when the truck was warmed up and I was stopped at idle the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and the oil pressure light would come on.. Once I gave it throttle the pressure gauge would go back to normal. After researching for the night the next morning I started the truck cold (around 35 degrees) and watched the oil pressure gauge. It was fine until the temperature came up then once I hit the brake to stop the high idle the gauge dropped to 0 and the oil pressure light came on. If I gave it any throttle the oil pressure would come up to normal but soon as I let off the pressure would drop off again.
I drained the oil, removed the oil cooler, and checked the oil pressure regulator to find it in normal operating condition. My new orings and gaskets won't be here until Monday so I cleaned up for the day. When picking up the oil drain plug I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings on it. I cut open the oil filter and found more shavings in it. Not a bunch but a few in every opening. I have read about a lot of issues where piston cooling jets fall off and cause my issues. I tried hitting the oil pan with a dead blow hammer and listening for the jet but don't hear it. This is the first time I have changed the oil since buying the truck and am wondering if it was found the last time the oil was changed and the reason for them selling the truck. I'm going to put a bore scope through the oil drain plug today and look for the piston cooling jets or anything not normal. Then when the oil cooler gaskets get here I plan to install them and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. To see what the pressure really is.
View 10 Replies
