Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: ABS Light Is On When Start Up
Oct 15, 2016
My truck has been sitting for the last six months since my stroke and now the ABS light is on when I start it up. I have not looked into it yet but was wondering if it might just be dirt on the sensor(s).
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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I was driving the truck a couple of weeks ago and it just died. I costed to the side of the road. It cranked but would not start. noticed the WTS light was not on. I bought a new one from dealership and installed it and it started right up. I assumed I fixed it. I let it warm up and drove it around the block and parked it and plugged the battery tender back up. the other day I got in and no WTS light again.
I was going to look at wire bundle over valve cover and 42 pin connector. Is there any other issues, I need to look at? Is it possible I just got a bad sensor? My guess would be something is shorting the sensor out if thats the problem so before I just put a new one in I thought I would ask the pro's. I have not done a lot of work to my truck aside from replacing the water pump, hoses and coolant.
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I bought a 99 f-250 7.3 a month or so ago and am impressed with the level of knowledge and hospitality you all show. This is my first diesel so I am completely new to a lot of the issues that occur with one and many of the diagnostic tests needed to troubleshoot.
When I purchased the truck the guy said it was very cold natured and I would have to plug in the block heater if it got chilly out. I didn't realize just how bad that problem was and have since had to keep it plugged in even on very mild nights to get a quick start. I have been very careful to let it warm up for 15-20 mins before I start driving it.
Also, I have noticed at around 40-55 MPH and light pressure on the gas I get a shudder, it was worse before I added a friction modifier to the oil but it is still there constant in overdrive.
As I was driving two or three days ago in a light rain (the first since I bought the truck) I noticed the SES pop on and stay on. Being new to the diesel world I immediately pulled into Autozone and tried to get a code, but with no luck. The truck has been running a bit rougher since the light came on and I am noticing a marginal power loss.
So my questions are: Where can I get the codes pulled off? I have been looking at buying a scan tool but the AE is out of my price range and the other options seem to have mixed results. Also, do any of the problems seem to be related or could it just be a few different issues that need to be ferreted out? From what I've read it seems possible for the UVCH to be the issue here, is that correct?
Again, I am really new to diesels so I may have been having loss of power even before this and not known it due to my inexperience.
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Took a 2 hour trip got of the interstate came to a stop light and the OD light starting blinking cut the truck off at the light fired it back up shifted in every gear like normal drove a little ways stopped at a light and OD started blinking again cut truck off back on light. Went away shifted great threw all the gears.
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Well I went to have a guy at work scan my truck to see why my o/d light is flashing His scanner wouldn't connect so I unhooked my ts chip still wouldn't after that Now with the chip unplugged. I can't start with it on I can't start...
My cel is on and my theft light just blinks. My wait to start never comes on but my glow plugs do start up and warm up. All I have is cranking but that's it?
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My 2001 7.3 in a f350 automatic has this problem. I tried to start in am, no wait to start light comes on, but the od/off on auto transmission handle is blinking on and off. Turn key off and back on, no blinking, instrument cluster lights up as normal but no wait to start light, engine turns over as normal but no start or attempt to start, engine has about 56000. replaced glow plug relay, still nothing.
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I have a 2000 f350 7.3 got a check engine light that turns off when rpms go up and a slow start. My mechanic said that there were no codes being blown, what is going on?
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 I was driving down the road today and I lost throttle along with my check engine light coming on. I pulled over and turned my truck off and now it will not fire back up.
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Saturday morning my grandpa drove my F350 into town pulling our 4-horse trailer (With living quarters). I wasn't with him, but I was told the following: he started smelling something hot and noticed the O/D light start flashing. Now, this man is not the most intelligent man on the planet and uses the O/D to "slow down the engine" when he starts and stops - i.e. uses it as trailer breaks. I have asked repeatedly for him to quit, but as best as I can tell, he continues to do so.
After the burning smell, a driver pulled up next to him and pointed down - he looked to see smoke and the truck puking fluid everywhere. He said he thought the truck lost power because he couldn't get it to move. Ended up getting it towed. The tow truck driver checked my fluid level and said I had an extremely small amount of transmission fluid left in the truck...which made sense as the fluid was all on the ground underneath, lol. Fluid was NOT red and looked really gross and there was DEFINITE burnt smell to it.
My question is this - what in the world could have caused the truck to do this (I read that is could be from overheating?), and what should be my next course of action? It is home and in my backyard right now (Classy!). It starts and runs fine, but since there is little to no fluid left, you have to hammer down on it to get it to go anywhere. It does move, however.
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2000 powerstroke 4r100 transmission. It has 155k just had it rebuilt and the shop is having a night as am I. It was shifting hard and the o/d off light would start flashing after you drove it a while. Its still doing the same thing and the shop checked the whole wiring harness and replaced the accumulator twice believing they got a bad re-manufactured one. The only code I can pull is a 605 pcm read only memory error. Could the cause be a bad pcm? The shop doesn't seem to have a clue at this point and I'm out 2500. IV taken it back twice now and Iv driven it a total of 35 miles since the rebuild...
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On my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
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Came on other day. No ses light or fault codes. What it means?
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I have some LED strips i bought, some i am going to install under the door sills to light my nerf bars/steps. The rest i am installing under the bed rail to light the inside of the bed. I want them to come on with the interior lights. So when i hit the unlock button on my key fob, or open the door said lights will come on.
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Ive got a 99 7.3 with 250,000 miles on it. It has run fine all day but just jumped in and won't start. It cranks over but won't fire. Check engine light doesn't come on. About two weeks ago it cut off twice at idle but haven't had that problem since.
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