Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: ABS Light Came On And Will Not Go Away - Codes C1233 And C1234
Mar 8, 2016
Immediately after replacing both front hub/rotors (and front pads and wheel bearings), my ABS light came on and will not go away. I finally ran codes a couple weeks ago while troubleshooting my CPS problem which left me stranded on the interstate while trying to get to the airport for a business trip.
Back in December, all I did was remove, clean, and reinstall the sensors like I always do whenever I have to R&R the rotors. I can't find any damage to the wires or connection points. I have re-removed and reinstalled each sensor again. I have cleared the codes, but once I start pulling out of the driveway, the codes come right back again for both front wheels.
There were absolutely no symptoms prior to the rotor replacement job, and this has been an ongoing and increasingly irritating visual issue ever since I did the brake job back in early December (I can't NOT look at the ABS light every time I start the truck, and I HATE seeing it stay lit)!
What bugs me the most is that I'm getting codes for BOTH sensors after replacing BOTH rotors. I MUST have gotten something wonky, but can't figure out what it was. Now I did replace all the drive line u-joints at the same time, but I never touched anything on the pumpkin or tranny in the process.
So, I have two questions..
1) Possible causes?
2) Possible solutions (I don't want to just start throwing new parts indiscriminately)?
From what I've read, Roland posted acceptable ohm values for the front sensors a couple years ago, so I can check that tonight.
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Used a 2010 or newer SD axle for there Coil conversion ? I did and am having abs issues. It's to cold to spend a lot of time outside figuring it out . I have these codes c1155, c1230,c1233,c1234. The right front sensor is brand new and the speedo works fine. Are the hubs maybe not compatible? Sensors plugged right in.
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Came on other day. No ses light or fault codes. What it means?
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I have had an intermittent ABS light for a while now. Since I have gotten the injector o-ring issues, and oil consumption problems nailed down, I am starting to check other things off the list. I have 2 codes:
C1229 Speed Wheel Sensor Rear Center Coherency Fault
C1230 Speed Wheel Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure
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I have a 2001 F350 with a PCM labeled "PMT2".
The SES light is triggered every time I try and pull fault codes using Torque Pro. It has done this since I installed Torque Pro many months ago. Same thing happens in another local member's (2000) truck, although I don't know his PCM version.
I'm very comfortable with the Torque Pro settings that have been detailed in other Torque Pro threads. I have been careful to choose conservative settings, including trying debug mode. I have uninstalled and reinstalled Torque Pro to see if that solves the problem - which it does not.
Question: "PMT2" PCM been able to pull fault codes using Torque Pro without tripping the SES light?
I realize another variable may be my OBD2 Bluetooth device. As an aside, I have removed the AIH and would expect to see a fault code but Torque Pro reports no fault codes.
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I test drove my truck yesterday for the first time with the newly rebuilt transmission. I was gentle with the right foot and all seemed well. Once out on the main road it shifted by itself into overdrive for the first time and immediately the O/D light started flashing. I drove it home and shut her off. I test drove it 2 more times leaving overdrive off, no issues. With a snap-on scanner hooked up I let it go into overdrive and O/D light started flashing again, not immediately maybe 5 seconds after shifting into O/D.
Codes are:
p1316 IDM codes detected
P0717 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0715 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0500 VSS fault
10 minutes ago was my last test, O/D flashes only after it has shifted into overdrive. I checked the transmission wire harness and all connections are tight, trans oil level is good & trans temp never went above 150. Could this be a faulty VSS?
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The SES light in my 2001 7.3 came on about a month ago while I was towing a light trailer in the SoCal mountains. When I got home I spent about 2 weeks replacing the injector o-rings and glow plugs. I discovered while I was in there that the head bolts on the driver's side where loose. I retorqued them to spec.
Both batteries were disconnected for the 2 weeks. When I started the truck the SES light was still on.
My Torque Pro app isn't showing any error codes, and is reading live data correctly. (I didn't have the app when the light first came on; I only purchased it after I finished the repairs). Am I missing something? Is the SES light not necessarily connected to fault codes? If so, wouldn't it reset after 2 weeks with the batteries disconnected?
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Started my truck yesterday and drove about 1/4 of mile and all of a sudden I lost all power but was lucky enough to creep back home. Had a friend put it on a scanner and it spit out P1280 and P1316 codes. My truck will start and idle rough but has no throttle response and no power. I changed out the CPS and ICP and the problem still exists. I got an infrared thermometer and checked the heat coming off each manifold and the driver side was reading about 200 while the passenger side was reading about 75 while at idle. Pulled valve pan cover off the passenger side to check and see if the harness came loose and everything looked fine. So my question is do you think this could lead to a bad IDM?
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What I know the truck was running normal except if I stomped the gas pedal and let off it would not respond again until I shut off keys and restarted this was a month ago now the truck sounds like it has a lope tune.
When I hit the gas pedal it blows white smoke and if I press the gas while idling or driving it floods out I did the spray bottle test on manifolds the drivers side was plenty hot the passenger side is cold you literally can touch while it's running.
The truck sounds like it's only running on 4 cylinders it has gotten so bad I parked the truck. Also this truck always had poor mpg 8 to be exact city hwy and towing nothing changed the mpg at all it used to blow out wet soot that would fall down on the truck and anyone standing near it.
Mods unknown pcu program 4in straight pipe with 12in stack harpoon mod in tank
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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F350 2001.
Constantly throwing codes for both front wheel's ABS. Ohm'd out both sensors - same reading
Ohm'd out wires leading to sensors - same reading
Ohm'd out rear diff speed sensor against a new one - same reading.
Pulled front sensor's cleaned and put my fingers in the sensor hole. What should I be able to feel? I'm wondering if the previous owner put non ABS hubs on?
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Truck wont start idm communication error all the fuses are good and the relay seams good I switched it out with another relay 340,000 miles how do I know if its the IDM r not... I'm sure the idm is not cheap...
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My truck is hard to start when cold and I suspect glow plugs. But it is not showing any codes? If it is a glow plug or glow plug relay at fault , should it throw a code?
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I purchased this unit, non running, was told the HPOP was bad, after going through the unit top to bottom, Im stumped, below is a list of items serviced and or replaced with OEM parts.
0. changed oil and oil filter
1. Terminator 500 Hpop
2. New ICP
3. New HPOP lines.
4. New starter and solenoid
5. Serviced Turbo (rebuilt with new parts and WW wheel)
6. Serviced Injectors (shimmed) all test good.
7. new pass and driver harness, UVHC replaced, glow plugs replaced.
8. new heavy duty GPR
9. Tested IDM no issues.
10. Hutch mod on tank (re-circulator was stopped up) deleted it, added inline filter.
11. serviced fuel bowl with new parts, upgraded parts on fuel bowl new blow off valve, new drain valve, tested heater all good no blown fuses.
12 replaced faulty fuel pump
Might be leaving something out of this list, the truck has run but only for very short periods of time, (hence the dropping of the fuel tank)
fuel pressure at 70 psi, some white smoke, connected to on board computer, checked every conceivable possibility No DTC codes, my gut tells me it has to be fuel related but at this point I just have run out of things to check.
I have tested everything with a fluke multimeter, including the IDM and all the circuits to the 42 as well as all the way to the injectors and glow plugs and find nothing wrong all tests yield valid readings,
There may be other information available but my after market scanner does not show any issue, KOEO buzz test results good.
The three times I have had this unit running it was dumping lots of white smoke, however after the last round of dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump the white smoke has dropped to a minimum, but cannot get the truck to run, cranks, wants to start, almost starts, got it up to 800 RPM last try but just will not go beyond that point.
I cannot find anything wrong, must be something I am either missing or its something my cheap scanner can't pick up on.
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how can this be? the WTS cycles as well as glow plugs. Brand new batteries, starter relay, starter. with a volt meter tested to make sure power is going to both connections to starter and they are good.cleaned battery posts, and all connections, is it that if there isn't 12v going to starter it wont function? only 3 codes: 0237, 0470 ( deleted EBPV), 1139 (unplugged fuel heater). 2001 f550 150k a/t.
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On the way home from work today as I pulled in there was a pulsating under when I pressed the brake pedal and the ABS light appeared on the dash. It didn't pull to the right but it felt kinda odd. When I start the truck, the ABS light comes on with the other indicators, goes off and then comes back on a split second later.
Haven't had any issues lately, and haven't had it worked on lately so not real sure where to start. I checked the VSS sensor on the pumpkin and it was relatively new, which means the prior owner had replaced it. Master cyclinder is full of fluid. I pulled the codes and it returned P0603 P0671 P1670.
Just sprang up out of nowhere. The speedo was not acting squirrely, just the brake pedal pulsating intermittently. Is there a VSS computer I need to replace?
Feb 2000 2WD 7.3 Excursion
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As title says, the EBP stays at 43psi key on running or not. MAP is at 13.7psi like it should be. tried a new sensor and also unplugged and no diff. Wiggled engine wiring harness and it never dropped. No tuner. Codes are P0472 and P0475. Truck runs very sluggish. 4.7v on EBP plug
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i bought a f250, i rebuilt the 7.3 after installing it the transmission isn't shifting correctly. Reverse perfect, 1st and shifts to 2nd great. wont go into 3rd. i replaced the 2 sensors on the transmission, i replaces the sensor on the 3rd member. the speedometer works but not correctly, i can unplug the sensor on the front of transmission and it shifts into 3rd. but when i plug it back it doesn't. no codes. could it be the ecm?
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E99 Romps on start up and randomly dying. Bought this truck about 3 weeks ago. Previous owner mentioned he had issues with it getting hot and shutting off and not starting. Has new IPR, ICP and pigtail, I just put in a new fuel filter. Has 206k miles on it and is the 4R100.
The past two days after sitting all night I have been cycling the key twice and it hasn't done its romp. Typically when it does I can tap the pedal once and it goes away. This I could deal with but its started to die randomly while driving, never while cruising down the road. Its either just after starting it and rolling slowly or slowing down for a stop or to turn. When it dies, I can put it in neutral and it fires back up no problem. SES light usually comes on for about 10-15 seconds after but goes away.
Replaced the grey CPS that was in it with a dark grey one from RiffRaff Diesel. Got a Edge CTS2 to figure out the problem, the codes Im getting are P1280 and P1247.
The ICP pigtail they replaced they spliced on with butt connectors. I plan on pulling it to check for oil and make sure it does look new and redo the connections with solder then shrink wrap them.
I was told to check the IPR% under full throttle which I did and it never went higher than 36.7
The truck did start running rough around 45-50 mph and I did get a video of the ICP jumping around while cruising down the road.
Then I went through a drive through and the truck kind of hiccuped like it wanted to stall and the ICP went right to 725 PSI and idled up and stayed there until I started to leave.
Truck is pretty much stock, K&N air intake and muffler cut out and straight piped.
Here is a link to the videos I got :
e99 7.3 ICP fluctuation while driving - YouTube
e99 ICP steady at 725 PSI after acting like it wanted to stall. - YouTube
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I have a 2001 f350 7.3 diesel and want some info... I am switching out the air intake and thinking about the Banks package.. How does it can be compared? Also, I am dealing with an issue of a dual generator upper and lower fault codes.. I only have a single generator system and it is running strong as far as I can see.. When I start it shows 12.9 and then raises to 14 when running.. Stays there the entire run...
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I've been battling this truck for over a month now and starting to go a little crazy, It's a 2001 f350 7.3L, with a "used" 7.3L engine from a 1997. Transferred all the necessary parts to make it happen. Keep getting the evil p1316 idm codes detected coming back upon start up. Anywhere between 5-30seconds after starting the left bank dies. I've gone threw and replaced the IDM with a reman unit. New valve cover gaskets (with new harness). even went the extra mile and put in a new power wire (for the driver side) running directly from the new valve cover into the IDM bypassing a connector above the left valve cover. All injectors are checking out around 3ohms. With glow plugs all around 1-2ohms. What's interesting about this is, I can disable any one of the injectors on the left bank (doesn't matter which one) and the engine runs great considering it's down on one cylinder. But when I hook up that last injector it will kill the whole left bank again.
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