Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: A/C Keeps Switching To Defrost On Its Own?
Jan 17, 2016
I have a 2000 450, and the a/c keeps switching to defrost by itself. Any way to fix??
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 450, and the a/c keeps switching to defrost by itself. Any way to fix??
View 14 RepliesAs the title implies, that is my problem. Can't get the AC to come out of anywhere other than the windshield defrost vents. Y'all ever encountered this before?
View 4 RepliesMy 99' started o blow air only through the defrost vent today, and won't go through any of the other vents. I think this happens when your vacuum pump goes bad or there is a leak, correct? If so, how can I test these to figure out the problem.
View 2 RepliesMy 01 ac has worked just fine up until today. I got in this morning to leave the house and the air was only coming out of the defrost vents. I tried playing with the controls to get it to switch but couldn't. I assume its a vacuum leak, but where do I need to start looking?
View 14 RepliesProud new owner of a 2001 7.3....today. The previous owner installed Warn standard hubs. I assume they work same as OEM with the exception that I have to get out and lock them, right? Also, when I test drove it, and after locking them, I engaged to 4x4 button and the 4x4 engaged and worked. However, when I disengaged my AC went to defrost just like my old 7.3. The AC eventually came back. Is this normal? I think it also went to defrost when I engaged. The AC does come back after a couple minutes after disengaging.
View 14 RepliesThe floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
View 5 RepliesI have Warn hubs that I have to lock in. All works good. A/C goes to defrost at first when cranking but then runs fine after a couple seconds. So, I was thinking that maybe my pump is running all the time. Who knows. I'm sure all my vacuum lines are dry rotted. What exactly is the need for it exactly and what's the best way to cap? Hoping to do it at the unit itself if possible.
View 6 RepliesSo, my 06CC V10 likes to switch to the defrost at times while I'm towing, usually above 65mph, would that be a vacuum issue? Also, the truck seems to always have hot air blowing in to the cab somewhere from the fire wall? Lastly it seems to me that the steering wheel has a lot of play in it (left/right) before the wheels actually turn, should I tighten up the steering box, or is this normal.
View 4 RepliesI have a question about a possible leak. As I never really paid attention to it until of recent days, I noticed that my a/c is switching to defrost while driving for approximately 15-20 seconds then I let off the petal. Would it be time to search for a leak or could it be a solenoid issue. Also why we are on the subject would this have a negative effect on my mpg. I'm usually around 9.5 hwy and 8 around town, 6.5-7 towing 10k trailer. 06 350 cc lb v10 4.10's Factory 275/65/20's 69k miles...
View 1 RepliesI have to once and for all try to figure out what the heck is up with the AC and the defrost/vent switching back and forth. I have searched and searched and posted a few months back as well. But now that it's summer and 100 degrees out I've had a chance to test some more.
1 - I replaced both hoses going to the hubs up front.
2 - I am not sure how to test vacuum, but I did cap the hoses that lead to the hubs and still had the fluctuating back and forth
Looking for detail how to test for vacuum leak with a gauge directions ? What number is supposed to hold on the gauge and for how long etc...?
3 - It used to be that when I got to a high speed or RPM it would shift to defrost, but now I've noticed that once on the freeway going to work for instance and doing a constant 55-65 ( sub 2k rpm ) for about 20-25 minutes the vents hold fine. When I start to stop and go with higher RPM's it starts to 'break down' again. Could it be that there is a vacuum canister or pump ? I don't know ?? The diesels have a vac pump - do the V10's ? What can I check if there is no vacuum leak - what's next ?
Car do this? Seems odd to me. Iss there a way to disable via VCDS?
View 22 RepliesDefrost not working. Looking for the vacuum pump so I can troubleshoot it. Where to find it in the engine bay and trouble shooting it other than listening to whether it's on or not when engaging 4x4?
View 14 RepliesLast November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
Replaced the vacuum solenoid.. Thought that would fix the ac blowing threw the defrost when I switch to 4x4, but didn't fix the issue, 4x4 works great. There is another little diaphragm that has a vacuum line to it that opens and closes, could this be causing the air to go defrost? I'm going to go to a buddies house and test for leaks this Saturday, just trying to get a jump on it...
View 1 RepliesHave 06 super duty . Heater air blowing only on defrost. 4wheel drive. Is this a vacuum problem or some type of sensor or control problem?
View 2 RepliesMy 2006, King Ranch, 4x4, 6.0's air conditioner only blows from the defrost vent. I have done some research on here, but haven't seen anything that identifies as a common problem. I did however, notice that this problem is stemming from a vacuum issue.
View 10 RepliesNo matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
View 8 RepliesI am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
View 6 RepliesI have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
View 14 Replies