Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: A/C Compressor Rapid Cycling?
Jan 26, 2016
So again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
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So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
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I recently put a new clutch on (after living without AC for a year and a half!) and now the AC is on, it just doesn't cycle off and after a while the air stops blowing. I assuming this is from the coils freezing over and icing up not letting air by? What do I need to check to get it to cycle off?
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When starting, rapid clicking like failing batteries. Had dealer install new Motorcraft batteries, and it's still happening. Clicks when i turn the key and then labors while turning over for 20 seconds. Sometimes it takes 2 or three times before it starts. I put in a rebuilt alternater 5 years ago. It seems like a fuel problem, but I'm guessing.
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Passenger tail light bulb went out who knows when, but was alerted about it today. Every other time this has happened, in multiple vehicles, the turn signal blinks rapidly to let you know the bulb is out. Mine blinked normally.
In the past year I've had to change my multi function switch and more recently the flasher relay for the blinkers. Just a standard relay from the parts store, not the heavy duty one or anything. It did say it was LED compatible, so I wonder if that is why it didn't pick it up? Why I didn't get the rapid blinking?
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Compressor seems to cycle to frequently, every 5 Seconds. Morning and Night the ac is freezing. During the Day it's cool but not cold.
Hooked up gauges and the high side is around 150 and the low side will go up to 45 and drop to 25 ( this is when the compressor engages and disengages.)
Ambient temp is just under 80. Where to go from here? 2003 Sport Trac...
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My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
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My 03 Expedition A/C quit working, the compressor was cycling on and off so I took it in to be recharged thinking it was low. They said was completely out and it took 3.5lbs to recharge although they couldn't find any signs of leaking. When they recharged it they put more dye in to find the leak, the technician said he suspected a compressor since it was completely empty and had been working in the spring.
I was hoping it was a compressor as I have changed one before on my 97 Expedition and am pretty comfortable with it, however I can't see any thing leaking using a UV light. I have checked the compressor and every line I can see all the way back to the rear (it has rear air). When they recharged it worked very good for about 8 days on the 9th day it was working and went from blowing cold to hot instantly. Where or what to look for??
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My 2003 F150's compressor cycles even when the a/c or defroster is not turned on. It has the climate control type of temperature system. This doesn't seem normal.
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SO after reading about the air gap on AC compressor, i checked mine and it was large so I removed the shim and the gap was almost like new..
Now when I first switch on AC the compressor will click on and off several times especially at any RPM above 1000.
I hooked up hoses and tried it again with wife holding RPM in 1200. The high side would bounce from 100 to 400, compressor would cycle off and then back on in quick secession with high side bouncing back and forth for 10 seconds or if she let off pedal back to idle RPM.. low side was not moving a lot at this point but not bouncing like the high side. What can be causing the pressure issue? when it stabilizes the pressures are right on for OD temp according to charging chart for R-134a.
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2003 7.3, AC compressor clicks like crazy. Can he hear outside the vehicle while idling?
The round disc on the front of it is what is making the noise.
The AC used to work awesome but now only blows cool air for about 10 minutes then turns lukewarm.
Is the clutch on my compressor bad? I have heard they can be adjusted, but not sure how.
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I have a 1999 F-250 SuperDuty with a 7.3L. I need to replace the field coil on my AC compressor due to a broken connector (long story). After I remove the belt and compressor clutch, what is the next step to get the pulley off so that I can then replace the field coil? I am a computer geek by trade so I need clear steps. I looked on youtube, but all I found was how to adjust or replace the compressor clutch or the entire compressor.
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Was wondering if the wheel for the ported housing from riffraff is worth it. Also, since I'm lazy I was gonna just spin the old wheel off with an impact wrench. I have a cordless that's prett stout but I'm sure I'll have to use air. Any thoughts on the wheel and taking the stocker off this way?
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I have a 2007 Ford E450 Superduty Box truck with a V10 and 70,000 miles. For the 6 years I have owned it, the AC has always been ice cold. This summer it will not blow cold under any driving situation.
When the AC is on AC, AC max, or defrost, the compressor clutch constantly engages for 1.5 seconds then disengages for 5 seconds. I bought a can of refrigerant and added only about 1/4 of it to reach proper psi for the current temperature.
If I remove either the high or low pressure switch clips, the compressor stops engaging. Is it possible that one of the switches has failed in that it is activating at an incorrect pressure? Unfortunately our local Ford dealer here is notoriously devious and while they may fix the problem, I will probably have an entirely new system by the time they are done.
I've ruled out coolant, air gap does not seem to apply and both hi and low pressure switches are active. What am I missing?
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On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
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My 2001 Expedition 5.4L sat for 2+ years and due to a new child, I put it back on the road late last fall. Last week, we had our 1st "must use AC" day and it didn't work.
I listened to see if the compressor was cycling and it never engaged. I picked up a gauge and r134a kit.
Outside temp was about 60F, I think my therm was showing 57F to be exact. When I checked the low side pressure with the engine off, the gauge reading was below 15. It made sense that the compressor wouldn't start at the pressure. I put in about a 1/2 can with the motor running A/C on max and it was showing 40, but still no compressor cycling. I then shut the motor down, let it sit for about 3 mins and restarted. This time, the compressor started to cycle, it was cycling quickly though, I'd say about every 3 seconds.
With the compressor cycling, the pressure would jump from 17 to 40. With the motor off, it would read 50. Still no cold air. I put in about 14oz of R134a.
I guess what I need to know is if I should I keep adding R134a until it stabilizes around 40, even when the compressor is cycling? Also, where should the static pressure be? It's sitting at 50 now. I've been told it should be around 80, but I'm thinking that might be dependent on outside temp.
BTW, I'm now thinking that the reason that I'm not getting cold air and the compressor keeps cycling is because I need to add a lot more R-134a. I think when the compressor starts and draws coolant, the low side pressure drops to low, causing the compressor to turn off. When the compressor cycles off, it sees the low side pressure at 40 and starts it up again causing the coolant draw and low side pressure to drop to low again. Am I right on this thought? It looks like I'll need to add another can to get the pressure to stay above 22 when the compressor is running.
One other thing... How much R-134a the system takes? I need to know because I have access to a vacuum.
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I thought originally I had a leak so I tested with dual gauges I'm getting 85 psi on low and high side, which I believe is good. So I tried grounding the low sensor, then high sensor, then both, then both just pulled out and any combo possible. Still not engaging. Switched out the relay, checked fuses, still not engaging. Tried taking shim out of compressor still nothing. Jumped the relay and it will engage and air comes out cold. What should I check next?
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I purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????
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I have a 2002 F250 on which the AC compressor clutch is not cycling: I have checked and added coolant so low pressure is correct (don't have high pressure gauge). I checked the clutch air gap and it is at 0.030 " as specified in another post. I replaced the low pressure AC cycling switch (on the evaporator/dryer). With the AC on, I disconnected the AC cutoff switch and the clutch disengages. This circuit has the correct (>10V) going to it. I am thinking it could have something to do with the AC relay.
When you switch the ATC to a setting other than AC or Max AC, the clutch disengages fine. I noticed this problem because the AC shuts off when it is really hot, after I have been driving for a long while, about 1 hour or more. If you shut off AC, wait a few minutes, then turn on it works fine.
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He has a 96 explorer and his ac compressor clutch was cycling on and off. So he went and bought 2 20 ounce cans of 134a and proceeded to add it to the evaporator service port. Of course a lot of it sprayed out side of it as it did not fit well (duh). So he has no Idea how much he actually got in there out of the 30 or so ounces he dispensed. He is laughing at himself with me on this. He says hi ahead of time
I have access to good gauges and a reclaimer and vacuum as I work sometimes for a residential ac guru. So what to do? I was thinking the evaporator should be changed out but I want a second opinion. Then vacuum and add new 134.
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At the first of summer I had typical A/C Clutch cycling not much cold air. Checked the Low Press side said it was low PSI took a Gamble that the pump was good and just filled it worked great. Lost All A/C the other day checked it out thought it may have small leak somewhere but clutch didn't cycle hardly at all Had a gut feeling it wasn't simple leak.
Well I just found a Hole in the condenser at the bottom Tube that runs across. So looking for new condenser. I also don't know what to do with recharging it and the ac oil in the system how much? maybe its safe to say most the oil was pumped out. Would standard procedure be to repair it then FLush cooling system to get to a baseline and then refill prescribed amount of oil and Freon
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