Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: A/C Compressor On And Off Several Time Above 1000 RPM?
Aug 22, 2017
SO after reading about the air gap on AC compressor, i checked mine and it was large so I removed the shim and the gap was almost like new..
Now when I first switch on AC the compressor will click on and off several times especially at any RPM above 1000.
I hooked up hoses and tried it again with wife holding RPM in 1200. The high side would bounce from 100 to 400, compressor would cycle off and then back on in quick secession with high side bouncing back and forth for 10 seconds or if she let off pedal back to idle RPM.. low side was not moving a lot at this point but not bouncing like the high side. What can be causing the pressure issue? when it stabilizes the pressures are right on for OD temp according to charging chart for R-134a.
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If I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
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So again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
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2003 7.3, AC compressor clicks like crazy. Can he hear outside the vehicle while idling?
The round disc on the front of it is what is making the noise.
The AC used to work awesome but now only blows cool air for about 10 minutes then turns lukewarm.
Is the clutch on my compressor bad? I have heard they can be adjusted, but not sure how.
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I have a 1999 F-250 SuperDuty with a 7.3L. I need to replace the field coil on my AC compressor due to a broken connector (long story). After I remove the belt and compressor clutch, what is the next step to get the pulley off so that I can then replace the field coil? I am a computer geek by trade so I need clear steps. I looked on youtube, but all I found was how to adjust or replace the compressor clutch or the entire compressor.
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Was wondering if the wheel for the ported housing from riffraff is worth it. Also, since I'm lazy I was gonna just spin the old wheel off with an impact wrench. I have a cordless that's prett stout but I'm sure I'll have to use air. Any thoughts on the wheel and taking the stocker off this way?
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On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
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Is this the sign of a bad fan clutch? I can spin it by hand,and it goes round and round.Can I drive it like this until I replace it? I am only driving 30 miles round trip at night, not towing and outside temperature is usually about 100 degrees.
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Just got myself a gently used Econoline E-350 7.3 Diesel and was loving it when she ran:
E-350 7.3 Diesel
Recently I have been having some charging issues. It started with it intermittently having a hard time to start, especially when it was warm. I carried a jump box with me and that always seemed to work. Then I noticed the voltmeter on the dash dropping. It went down to the 8 and I was like something is wrong.
Checked the battery voltage, it was at 9.6v. OK, maybe alternator isn't charging. Advance Auto tested the alternator, said it was bad. I replaced alternator. No difference. I pulled the battery and ran it on a conditioner to bring it up to proper voltage. It's now at 12.6v resting. Starts the van no problem. When running though the voltage doesn't increase to 13-14 volts like it should though telling me the alternator isn't doing it's job. Increasing engine RPM actually decreases voltage? Checked all the obvious things like bad grounds but everything seemed clean.
The only thing that was fishy was when I pulled the three way plug from the alternator, one of the pins had corrosion on it. I cleaned it up before installing the new alternator. I didn't do a diode test on the new alternator because I figured it was new, but hey maybe I got a lemon?
Anyway I'm going crazy trying to figure out where the problem is. All fuses are ok. Is there an external regulator or something I should be on the lookout for? Is there anything else that could be causing a non charging issue? The battery was manufactured in 2014 so it's relatively new.
And on a random note my ABS light is now on?
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First off, I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3L so I have a GPCM and not a glow plug relay.
I'm getting a P0683 code. My SES light is on all the time. I have a voltmeter plugged into the dash outlet and based on prior behavior, it is definitely not lighting the glow plugs now. The voltage isn't dropping enough. It only goes down to 12.35v or so when the engine is cold. This time of year, it gets to around 70 during the day and 45 or so at night so the plugs aren't strictly needed. It starts without any problem at all.
I'm not sure what could be wrong. The connections are all tight to the GPCM. I've wiggled and pushed them in as far as they go. I recently did a lot of work to the engine, including new injectors, glow plugs, 38R, etc. and I've never had this code before doing any of that work.
I've read a bunch of threads on it... is there any way to troubleshoot this, or do I just get a new GPCM? Can I convert to a GPR? I don't plan on having to pass CA smog as I'm probably moving at the end of the year.
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 psd. it cranks and will not start, it use to crank for a bit of time and then start and now it refuses to start. If I leave the key in start position for like 30 seconds it use start and now it wont. I am thinking it is something with the glow plugs?
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3 with 76,000 miles (still a baby) ... about a week or 2 ago i got in my truck and went to start it like normal, except instead of whipping over and firing right up in the snap of a finger, it kinda had a slower cranking time and took a second or 2 longer than normal. My first thought was maybe the battery's, BUT there basically brand new !!! not even a year old !!! ... so i figured maybe a starter, but i just left it as is, it still ran normal after firing.... Until this morning, I went to go start it and it cranked over 3 or 4 times real slow and would crank any more, it did this to me multiple times. Its acting like dead batteries so i put a jump pack on it, no change. I am thinking maybe a starter ....
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As title says, the EBP stays at 43psi key on running or not. MAP is at 13.7psi like it should be. tried a new sensor and also unplugged and no diff. Wiggled engine wiring harness and it never dropped. No tuner. Codes are P0472 and P0475. Truck runs very sluggish. 4.7v on EBP plug
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I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
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I recently (in the last few months) have noticed my truck (1999 F350 duallie) seeming to be running very rich … I pull a 32' trailer with it and noticed on the art few trips the front and right side of the trailer covered with diesel fuel spots when I got home …. It also smells very rich when idling…. The last couple times I started it in the mornings it seems to crank a very long time before it starts …it still runs but its got issues evidently … it has these 3 codes :
P1280
P0475
P1670
The 1670 will clear , but the other 2 I can't clear, they are right back every time you turn the key on …
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I have a 2000 7.3 f450 having some electrical issues. When you turn the key on sometimes the dash will start ticking and left side light flashing...engine will turn over but it won't start. The ticking is coming from under the hood relay 32 (you can hear and feel it clicking). Book says its injector driver module power relay. A lot of the times it will start fine other times it will be running and just die (prob because of this issue) happened once when I was driving.
What to check here already replaced the relay still have the problem.
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I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?
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2003 F250 6.0. We had our truck completely checked over by a diesel shop, and we spent $ in repairs on our 6.0 in June having a new high pressure oil injection pump put in, 1 new injector, new oil cooler, new EGR cooler, FCIM and a few other odds and ends. We had this done before leaving Michigan to spend 6 months on the road for my husband's job while pulling our 5th wheel. We were on the road for 6 hours, got to the middle of Pennsylvania, and every injector blows out of the engine all at once. One head is cracked, all injectors are burned, brand new oil pressure pump is destroyed, oil is pouring out of the turbo. The mechanic we were towed to says we got bad fuel that caused catastrophic failure and he proceeds to rebuild our engine. 2 injectors were so badly destroyed that they could not be rebuilt. We had the fuel tested by a lab and the lab says the fuel is fine. What would cause such a catastrophic failure like this?
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I am trying to diagnose an issue with my 2003 F-250 6.0L PSD.
The first time I crank it everyday, it struggles to start. Beyond that, it seems to run fine and not have issues cranking throughout the day.
I've recently replaced both batteries, the FICM, the fuel filters and the FI wiring harness. What could be the issue?
The video shows exactly what I deal with every morning.
YouTube - 2003 F-250 Cold Start Issue ....
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I just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
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