2003 7.3, AC compressor clicks like crazy. Can he hear outside the vehicle while idling?
The round disc on the front of it is what is making the noise.
The AC used to work awesome but now only blows cool air for about 10 minutes then turns lukewarm.
Is the clutch on my compressor bad? I have heard they can be adjusted, but not sure how.
On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
So again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
SO after reading about the air gap on AC compressor, i checked mine and it was large so I removed the shim and the gap was almost like new..
Now when I first switch on AC the compressor will click on and off several times especially at any RPM above 1000.
I hooked up hoses and tried it again with wife holding RPM in 1200. The high side would bounce from 100 to 400, compressor would cycle off and then back on in quick secession with high side bouncing back and forth for 10 seconds or if she let off pedal back to idle RPM.. low side was not moving a lot at this point but not bouncing like the high side. What can be causing the pressure issue? when it stabilizes the pressures are right on for OD temp according to charging chart for R-134a.
2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
I have a 1999 F-250 SuperDuty with a 7.3L. I need to replace the field coil on my AC compressor due to a broken connector (long story). After I remove the belt and compressor clutch, what is the next step to get the pulley off so that I can then replace the field coil? I am a computer geek by trade so I need clear steps. I looked on youtube, but all I found was how to adjust or replace the compressor clutch or the entire compressor.
View 3 RepliesWas wondering if the wheel for the ported housing from riffraff is worth it. Also, since I'm lazy I was gonna just spin the old wheel off with an impact wrench. I have a cordless that's prett stout but I'm sure I'll have to use air. Any thoughts on the wheel and taking the stocker off this way?
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 f450 with a 7.3. Here lately it has been "missing" when driving or idling, but only every now and then. When driving down the road it will start bucking and boiling black smoke out then the ses light will come on and like turning a switch everything clears up and it acts and drives normal.
View 11 RepliesWell, truck is throwing me for a new loop the day I pick it up from the body shop (crazy, right?). I started out driving it and had a blue haze - I figured it had some air left in the system from doing my injectors so I left it and it cleared up after about 20 miles. I noticed that my SES light came on while idling at a stoplight, but went off when I took off. Figured it was a fluke and kept on getting on.
Well, next light it does the same thing - idle the light is on, take off the light is off. Reading the code yields P1316 - so I pull over and running a buzz test to fetch the IDM codes. Guess what? No codes. All sounded fine, so this is where I got really confused as I'm getting huge mixed signals from this truck suddenly.
As I got to watching my gauges, I noticed that I was idling around 10.8 IPRDC and 530-560 ICP, and when I would get about 16-18 IPRDC the code would go away. Did a near-WOT run when getting on interstate as a test to see how it'd do, and saw IPRDC get up to 98% - the highest I have EVER seen it get on this truck (no idea if it is related or not). I have a log from moving around the lot that I will try and upload soon.
I have a 2001 f250 7.3. Recently started this problem idling at 1000 Rpms when stopped completely and when I let off the gas pedal it idles real funny like it's fixing to run out of fuel. It does not do this all the time however. At times it runs great. I had my mechanic scan it and at first it was the exhaust pressure sensor. Replaced it and it ran fine for awhile and it started doing again. Took it back in to get re scanned and it was throwing a bad ICM code. Replaced this as well and I'm still having the same problem. Had it scanned again and it's not throwing any codes now. I have no check engine light on and as long as I'm on the gas pedal it runs great. It's just when I roll up to stop or when I'm stopped completely. Again it does not do it all the time.
View 9 RepliesI have a 7.3 Excursion, 234K Miles, 4R100 Transmission. Today I was in a rush to take one of our dogs to the vet, when I hit overdrive going up a hill, it almost sounded like a clicking noise and I was steadily losing power. I came to a stop sign and put it in park and it started to develop a constant lope that was rough. Whenever I would step on the gas it would put out white smoke which it has never done before. I was able to take it a couple miles before it did the same thing except this time it shut itself off.
Recently I have been having transmission issues as it feels im losing first gear. A while back I noticed it would idle slightly in park every now and then. A couple days before this happened, I came to a stop and my truck started loping slightly and first gear IN DRIVE felt very very weak. I have recently replaced the cam position sensor as well as the ICP sensor. I'm at a loss, I plan to do a ZF6 transmission swap very soon and this is only making me panic even more.
I never dog the truck, take it mudding, etc. Oil is changed every 3-4,000 miles. I did however get it scanned a while back and I believe two codes came up for two pistons, also did an injector buzz test and they all sounded strong.
So I have recently did a body swap on my 7.3 I rolled. Put a body from another one this one. Before I took the old body off the engine ran fine. Nothing wrong at all.
Now that I have the new body on, I am stuck with a fuel shutoff switch. I read that it is suppose to be pressed down, but when it is pressed down, I turn the key and 4 relays under the hood click rapidly, 2 under the dash, and the drive side blinker blinks? Anyway, when I push it up, and turn the key, all the lights come on normally, wait to start light comes on. It'll crank good, the battery's are good, had them tested and fully charged. Checked ando triple check all battery connections and grounds. Anyway, it'll crank and want to start it fire up for a second and die. The low pressure oil gauge on the dash doesn't go up, but I think I broke the sensor connector for that. The fuel pump doesn't make any noise, the fuel bowl has fuel in it, but does fill up with fuel. So I'm thinking the fuel pump is somehow shorted out, so when I depress the fuel shutoff switch it makes everything go crazy. But even then the fuel pump doesn't make any noise?
I was hearing a clicking noise on my passenger front wheel when rotating by hand.
Paul suggested I remove the ESOF hub and see if it is the wheel hub or the ESOF hub. It's the ESOF hub.
So I'd like to rebuild it for sure, it also has a nicked o-ring, so that accounts for part of the vacuum leak
I'd like to service the driver's side, too, while I'm at it. It doesn't exhibit any issues, so just regular maintenance stuff there.
Parts lists?
As always, I'll take pics in return
I have a 2000 Ford X diesel with the 7.3 engine. About 2 years ago whenever I would drive it during the summer, and I would shut it off and then a few minutes later tried starting it again, it would start. It doesn't even turn over or making a clicking sound but it acts like the motor is dead. The lights and all the electrical work, but it doesn't turn over at all. It will start back whenever it cools down. It doesn't happen during the winter time or when its cool outside, only when the weather is hot. I've replaced both batteries and the starter but nothing happens. Tonight it did it again and I have to wait 20-30 minutes in the parking lot until it would start again.
View 7 RepliesHad a weird issue come up this weekend. I went to drive my truck for the first time in a couple of weeks and when I got in I noticed a constant clicking from under the dash (whether the truck was on, off or if the indicators / hazard lights were on or off). I investigated and found it was my flasher relay. I have replaced this relay recently (within the past year) to an EP27L to accommodate the LED lighting I installed throughout the truck (hyper flash on the old relay doesn't even describe it properly, it was a constant buzz!) and it has been working perfectly until this point.
I thought it may just be something going on with the relay so I pulled it and replaced with the old EP27 unit I still had. It does the same thing, albeit at a slower rate (every 4-5 seconds). The lights do not blink when it is doing this, but still operate normally when I move my stalk up or down or when I press the hazard / flasher button on top of the steering column.
I am wondering if there is a short somewhere in my multifunction switch that is causing this issue? If so, why would it come up when truck has been sat? I didn't have the time, not the inclination to roll around inside my truck (hotter than hades here in Florida right now) to troubleshoot any further. I pulled the relay altogether until I get some time and cooler weather to look into it further. Otherwise the truck seems to operate as normal, even all the lighting seems to have no ill effects from this?
When starting, rapid clicking like failing batteries. Had dealer install new Motorcraft batteries, and it's still happening. Clicks when i turn the key and then labors while turning over for 20 seconds. Sometimes it takes 2 or three times before it starts. I put in a rebuilt alternater 5 years ago. It seems like a fuel problem, but I'm guessing.
View 2 RepliesI just did an engine swap and have an odd noise that I was curious on where to start. It sounds like a buzz test on an injector at 2,250 rpm and gets louder as rpms increase but starts out very faint and get louder. Makes noise converter unlocked and locked in gear under load and free rev no load.
-2002 F550
-Fuel pressure is 60+ psi all the time
-Regulated return fuel system
-New injectors all AD
-Stock tune
-38R turbo
-New flexplate
-injector hold down tight
-new degas res
-new water pump.....
Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2000 Ex PSD 4x4 in september. I have refreshed the suspension in the last 4 months; leafs, shocks, etc. I developed a vibration over 50mph after I installed the suspension and have been chasing it since.
I have replaced the U Joints, professionally balanced and lubed driveshaft twice, adjusted driveshaft angle to less than 1*, replaced the flanges for the TC output and the driveshaft companion flange. I have not touched the diff, but there is no decernable play in the pinion or leaks. Also, I removed the rear housing of the TC and replaced the output needle bearing and seal 2 weeks ago.
The output of the TC still has 1/4" play and a clicking noise coming just forward of the chain section of the TC. I assume the play is coming from other bearings on the main shaft in the TC.
I am about to purchase a remanufactured TC, but before I do, I need a reality check. Is it possible there is damage to the output bearing of the Transmission or something else?
I don't want to buy a TC to put in and experience a TC failure again in a short time. It doesn't make sense to me that there would still be so much play after changing the output shaft needle bearing of the TC if the TC main shaft is supported not just from the TC bearings but the output of the transmission unless there was possible play in the output of the transmission.
So my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?