Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: A/C And Heat Not Working - No Air Coming Out Of Vents
Sep 29, 2016
I noticed a couple weeks ago after starting the truck and turning on the a/c that nothing was coming out of the vents. I found it odd when after driving a few miles the a/c kicked in and started blowing cold air. Today I needed to put on the defrost and same thing, nothing came out of the vents. I drove around for a while hoping it would kick in just like the a/c did but nothing. I did check the fuses and relay. When you turn the control either to heat or a/c you can hear a clicking sound under the hood. It's trying to engage but nothing is coming out of the vents.
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The floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
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Truck is a 02' F350 xlt crew cab, 7.3l, 4x4, 4R100, manual transfer case, 125,000 miles.
So me and the family were pulling out of the driveway tonight and electrical smoke starts blowing out the vents. My wife had just plugged a cheap USB charger into the auxiliary outlet above the cup holders for only 30 seconds. I immediately pulled back into the driveway, yanked the charger out, and found it had melted a hole in the side of it. No smoke had come from the charger or the outlet. The outlet looked fine and wasn't hot to the touch. I pulled the dash off real fast and started grabbing wires, feeling for anything that was hot or melting. I couldn't find anything.
I pulled the cover off under the steering wheel and couldn't find anything. I never turned the truck off while I was looking. After a few minutes, I noticed that the cover over the fuse panel was warm. Pulled the cover off and felt every fuse end and they were all cool to the touch. The relays in the middle were all pretty warm(almost hot to where I couldn't touch them). I was still faintly smelling the burnt smell and I couldn't tell if it was just stuck in my nose. I disconnected the batteries and we had to switch cars(heading to a bbq).
So I just got home and I'm going to start looking for any obvious signs first. What could be going on at the panel? So far, everything is still working. I haven't found any blown fuses.
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About mid-October I noticed when it as real cold out and I had the heat running whenever I would come to a stop I noticed there is very little to no heat coming from the vents, despite the engine being warm and running at operating temps. At the time I was working for a shop and I asked one of the mechanics what the problem was. He said that it was the radiator not having enough coolant.
Turns out when we pulled the cap the coolant res, was just about bone dry. So we added in about a gallon or so of coolant with the truck running and sure enough at idle the heat was back.
Fast forward to the last couple of weeks and when I am sitting at idle again same thing happens. So somehow the engine is losing coolant. Its not ending up in the oil (no white on the dipstick) and there is not a coolant leak. As it sits there is 255,300 miles on the truck now. 1999 5.4L F150....
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2003 Civic, ~180,000 miles. Previously had overheat problems, replaced head gasket, timing belt, water pump, thermostat and hoses (+ a few other things) No longer over heating, but there is no heat coming from the vents unless the car is over 2,000 rpm. Hoses to the heater core are both warm/hot, so flow through heater core seems to be good. Also AC has same issue no cold air unless over 2,000 rpm. Is this the control to the blend door? Are they operated by vacuum and with a leak, need higher vacuum to operate?
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango SLT 5.2L (318) 4x4. My problem is that there is no air or heat coming from any of my vents. It started out where there was no air coming out on the lowest setting. Then a few days later, no air from the next highest setting. It then continued to where absolutely no air coming from any setting. I don't know where to even start looking.
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After some diag I got the A/C to blow out the front vents. There are million threads on this issue half of them are never figured out. This is the second time I have come across this problem so will make this really informative for those who have this problem. If you A/C blows to defrost, yes most of the time its going to be a vacuum leak issue.
Step 1) turnkey on engine off, stand by passenger fender and listen.. can you hear the pump running? If it is your pump isn’t dead.
Step 2) does the pump run for 30 seconds then shut off? You may not have a vacuum leak. If keep’s running for ever you have a leak. Inspect all lines, especially those going down to the hubs for cracks. Also inspect vacuum lines under passenger glovebox.
Step 3) can’t find a leak? Disconnect the line going to the ESOF solenoid and plug it, if you pump stops running then your ESOF solenoid has an internal leak. That was my problem 6 months ago, replaced ESOF, A/C blows normally.
Try This Second! So my AC isn't blowing through my front vents again.... (more diag)
AC not blowing through vents and can’t find a vacuum leak? Take off glove box door, turn AC control switch to floor/defrost/front vents, watch the metal arm connected to the side of the big black box move up and down into various positions. I noticed on mine the arm will go down in positions (floor or defrost) But it will not move up! Which needs to happen to switch to front vents. If I push the rod up by hand manually, the ac will blow through front vents, and stay blowing through front vents even after I let go. PIC of metal arm thing connected to diaphragm, which changes air flow by moving flap inside the big black box
I am guessing the Diaphragm is the issue? The truck will continue to blow from the front vents even when the truck is shut off and restarted, it will stop when I switch the ac to a different position, it will not return back to front vents.
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As the title implies, that is my problem. Can't get the AC to come out of anywhere other than the windshield defrost vents. Y'all ever encountered this before?
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All vacuum lines are good, pump works, Canister isn't leaking, 4x4 activates and I can feel it, so Can't be vacuum leak. Replaced esof solenoid 6 months ago last time this happened, but this issue seems to be different. Watch this vid I made showing the issue.. after viewing video, do yall' agree I isolated the issue? If that one tug makes the air go through the front vents, that means everything else in the A/C mode selection works..
YouTube.....
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I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
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I have an 03 F250 7.3litre. I have noticed the last few times driving while hauling that my vents start pushing hot air when under a load (example: driving up a long, steep pull) even if I have the AC on. It's starting make me a lot hot under the collar (pun intended) .....
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My 01 ac has worked just fine up until today. I got in this morning to leave the house and the air was only coming out of the defrost vents. I tried playing with the controls to get it to switch but couldn't. I assume its a vacuum leak, but where do I need to start looking?
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This is the it's always something post. Alternator rebuilt to 185. Batteries tested by AAA. When I went into the truck tonight the door locks made a clicking sound like the battery was going dead. Truck fired right up at 0 degrees.
I just installed WARN locking hubs and now I only have a defroster blower that works. Is there anything else besides a vacuum leak that might cause that?
6 CD Player has had problems loading and unloading for a few years but now it just says initializing and goes right back to radio.
I am really regretting doing the right thing two weeks ago and not letting this truck burn when it caught on fire on the Turnpike.
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2002 - 7.3 lariat, my a/c stays on max because of the recirculating effect. When I get in the next morning during summer of course, my dash vents take a few seconds to begin, default defrost till that time passes. Sure I know about leaks and redone all that to make my vacuum hubs work correctly. It didn't begin till later not right after that overhaul.
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I just finished the replacement of my injector cups and I replaced every hose on that engine and when i replaced the heater hoses I believe I hooked them up right but just want to make sure. Is there an IN and and OUT on the heater core or does it not matter???? Im only asking simply because my legs feel like their on fire. Im wondering if the hot coolant is flowing through with out demanding it. I havent drove the truck in a while so Im questioning everything.
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I have a 86 f250 with rebuilt 302, new radiator, new hoses and heater core. I know the cold to hot selector works to open the door. now the ac works great although my heat is not working properly. I can put the defroster on with heat and the blower in the engine compartment comes on like normal. Now the problem is that we i put it on heat the blower in the cab does not blow air through any vents. I just purchased this vehicle and not really sure how everything works.
Funny thing also when the ac is on i turn the blower on low and its really high then the high is really low (its like to switch is working backwards) not sure if that has anything to do with it. Then when I was looking in the engine compartment i noticed the wiring harness has a plug going to the blower, then one plug to what looks like a heat strip of some sort, then someone took two oranges wires and wire nutted together to get the engine compartment blower to work. So now I'm wondering if I am missing something there??? Here's a pic of the engine compartment.......
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I just picked up a 78 F150 Ranger XLT with a 351M in it this past friday. I am absolutely in LOVE with her. She is a great solid truck. One issue I am having though is that she blows hot air out the vents over the hump but nothing is coming out the top of the dash. I am guessing that i will have to take the dash off and clean out the box check the door etc. What did you do to rectify?
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I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
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Recently my power windows stopped working...sort of. Here's what I mean: If the drivers door is closed none of the windows will go down. However, if I open the drivers door halfway or all the way I can roll up/down all the windows. If the windows are down and the drivers door is closed I can, almost always, roll up the drivers window, however the other windows in the truck will usually not roll up. Open the door halfway and up they go.
A couple of other things I have noticed. When I press the down button for the drivers door window, with the door closed, I can hear the relay, under the dash, kick on and the window will move about a millimeter down then stop. Additionally, the courtesy light on the drivers door comes on while the door is closed. I haven't checked if the other courtesy lights come on at the same time.
Hopefully my explanation is understandable. I would love to solve this issue. Getting tired of opening the door to roll down the windows. Plus when there's a fly in the truck and I'm driving I can't get it out.
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My power steering is only working when i turn it to the left. When I turn it to the right i have to get a 1/4 of a turn in until the power steering takes over. So i get under my truck to discover what seems to be a piece of my tranny missing. How screwed am I ???
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On my 2003 powersteering the windows and radio will just quit working. Then they will come on again. Maybe in and hour or a day or a week. Where do I sart.
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