Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 4x4 Light Flickers On And Off
Apr 6, 2011
I was driving home last night on the freeway going about 80 and i noticed my 4x4 light was flickering on and off really sporadically. acting like there was a short or something.... What would cause this or where to start.
I have used the 4x4 recently, actually Saturday night and it worked fine. light worked fine, everything was OK at that point.
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I have an odd issue, 2003 7.3L f250 ... My battery light flickers on and off, I had the alternator tested at a alt rebuild sale place here locally, I don't always trust the auto zone techs, also had the batteries tested at interstate batteries. both batteries good, alternator good.
I think my connector is bad on my alt, not the one that goes to the battery, output is 13.8 to 14.1 btw......there is another connector that is a PITA to get off. I think it is bad, I played with it and applied some dielectric grease had the light go out when I wiggled it.
Can just the connector be replaced?
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I have a 99 f350 7.3l 4x4 and my battery light flickers randomly. I have checked the alternator and both battery's. All brand new and seems to be ok. They only are getting a charge when the battery light is flickering. I put both new batteries in on Thursday and on Sunday I needed a jump at the store.
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I have been trying to diagnose my truck for 2 weeks now. Truck basically died at light. Towed to a friends shop, had ficm low voltage and crank and cam codes. He replaced crank and cam sensors with aftermarket ones from his parts supplied. I also purchased a ficm, still no start. When i turn key I get a clicking under dash and cruise light flickers, it does flash it flickers. If I unplug ficm relay or icp it will stop and crank over.i am getting a weird random off and on ficm sync.as well as cam crank sync.
If I unplug icp it will start for about 30 seconds then dies and as i am watch ficm and cam sync,when it says no is when it dies. Key on Icp unplugged. Here is Icp plugged in you can see cruise light flickers and check engine goes on and off but this is when it will grind starter. I'm starting to think maybe the motor fires briefly and then dies and starter is trying to engage moving flywheel.
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Came on other day. No ses light or fault codes. What it means?
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I have some LED strips i bought, some i am going to install under the door sills to light my nerf bars/steps. The rest i am installing under the bed rail to light the inside of the bed. I want them to come on with the interior lights. So when i hit the unlock button on my key fob, or open the door said lights will come on.
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My buddy is selling his truck in a couple days and was taking out speakers, afe intake, and satelite radio. I go to start the truck and i have no power to windows, no power to radio and no domelight when i switch it on and off. Dont know what i did but none of this works and everything else does.
I checked all fused all were good. I searched the forum for a solution and they said something about the automatic delay relay and i bought a new one and nothing still. I am not sure what else to do i checked with voltmeter if i had anypower to the window or radio and nothing. But the radios clock works and when i turn on the light it illuminates but doesnt turn on.
The truck is a 2002 7.3L Crewcab. f350
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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We have a 2002 7.3 f350 2wd this darn thing is now tripping me out. At first when ou start the truck its all good but when it warms up the idle is funky when you go to stop at a lite its like im power breaking and rough idle once stopped the idle is about between 800 and 900rpms at a stop really high idle but plenty of power on take off...
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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I just bought a 1999 F250 SD 7.3 turbo I am new to the diesel world. but love it so far.
The wts light does not come on. I did do research on this and also took it into a shop for a safety inspection. They said it was the glow plug relay but could not change it out till Monday.
I took it upon my self and changed it out. So she starts up ok no real problem but I still have no wts light and she runs fine other wise.
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On my 01 everything works as it should except for my glow plugs. They come on between 30 to 60 seconds after I turn the key on. I had done the GP led mod so I can see they aren't on. I have used a test light and verified the relay works but isn't getting the signal.
I turn the key on, the WTS light comes on and goes off normal. I can hear the vacuum pump turn off. and up to 30 sec after that I can hear the GP relay kick in verified by the led its working. What would cause the delay in GPR action??
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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My truck has been sitting for the last six months since my stroke and now the ABS light is on when I start it up. I have not looked into it yet but was wondering if it might just be dirt on the sensor(s).
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My yellow 4X4 indicator light on the dash won't turn off for several days after engaging the 4 wheel drive. I have a manual transfer case not the ESOF system, I am certain the 4X4 is disengaged, but the light stays on, so something is sticking. It will usually take several days for the light to go off. I have had to engage my 4X4 system a bunch the last 10 days and had to engage it where I park at my office yesterday due to a huge mound of snow right on the edge of my parking space, man the guy who plows my lot sucks..oh wait, that's me.. so it will be a while before the light goes out on it's own right now. What needs to be sprayed, lubed, tapped with a hammer, replaced?
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Battery light came on about two months ago it would flicker. So i had Auto zone check it out batteries were good just needed a charge. so i charged them no fix so i said alright ill do the Alternator did that and then beginning of this week it happened again so checked it went back got a replacement alternator since they said it tested bad. Put the new one on and didnt change anything. Check my batteries they were reading 10v each. I charged them and they wouldn't hold a charge. so i replacement both batteries.
So i have a new alternator and two new batteries light is still on. Contacted my tech (whose a friend) he said to check the wiring going to the alt he said both wires should read 12v on constant other when the key is turned on. Tested the constant it has 12v other reads 6-8v with key on.
He also said sometimes the wiring on the X pipe can short the alternator? i unhooked all the wiring from the Xpipe nothing changed per battery light being on or off. So what should i do.?
Also my dash lights don't work but that's been like that for awhile (bulbs are all good).. Forgot to mention sometimes the light goes off but seems to stay on 90% of the time.
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Picked up my truck from the local transmission shop yesterday and on the way home (less than 3 miles away), I noticed the ABS light was on. I turned around back to the shop but the guy behind the desk couldn't pull the codes (his mechanics smart with codes don't work Saturday). So I will head back tomorrow when his code-smart dude is back but was wondering is there anything they could have done during the tranny install to muck up the ABS system? Or do they need to do something because of the new transmission?
I checked the #15 5-amp fuse under the steering wheel but it looks good. Truck runs good to me and shifts fine in the 10 or so miles I drove it yesterday but I'm not savvy with transmissions or ABS.
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I put a 150 w converter into one of my 12-watt power female and all of a sudden when i turned the engine on my check engine light came on with 4 glow plugs bad and now won't pass smog. any way i can turn off the check engine light so it won't comes up on the smog test?
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