My transfer case engages the front drive shaft spins but even when I manually lock my hubs neither of my tires will pull! I was thinking either the hubs are shot but I was told it could be the 4wd locking solenoid??
View 1 RepliesI noticed that my 4WD is only working now when I manually lock the hubs in (they have that options!), and the air blows out the defroster when I shift, so it looks like I have a vacuum leak. Where are the typical leak points on a 2006 F250? What's the best way to confirm a leak (other than just replacing all of the hose)?
View 2 RepliesWarn Premiums, installed them and now the 4x4 is engaging, but still have a grinding issue. When the hubs are locked and the switch is in 2 wheel drive, the frond end is grinding, if I switch it to 4 hi, the grinding goes away.
View 3 RepliesI have my vacuum system back up and working and using my vacuum pump I determined my lines are all good. They hold a vacuum fine, but my ESOF isn't engaging my hubs. I guess that leaves either the selector on the dash or the seal at the hubs.
If it is the selector, I should just be able to just disconnect the vacuum line at the selector and use my pump to engage my hubs. How much it is supposed to take to activate the hubs?
To those of you that have replaced your unit bearing hubs on your 4 x 4's; are they giving comparable service to the OEM units? I'm replacing ball-joints right now and it would sure be easy to slap on some new hubs. The only issue is I have 130k on the originals and have been lubing them through the ABS port for the last 20k miles - the hubs seem to be in good condition. I've noticed some posters stating that since lubing an already good hub, that they are now getting a lot more than the standard 150k out of them. I also worry about replacing perfectly good US bearing hubs with most likely a Chinese bearing hub (Timken or not!).
View 10 RepliesI am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
View 12 RepliesAs my truck stands it has OEM automatic locking hubs with a selector for auto or lock. So, why would some one buy manual locking hubs and cap off the ESOF vacuum line when the OEM ones perform the same function by being auto or locked?
I hope this makes sense because if I felt I wanted to go to manual style locking hubs, I think I could simply cap off the vacuum line and then switch the hub to lock if I wanted 4x4 because the electric switch inside the truck is actually what engages the transfer case and puts the truck into 4x4.
Is this thinking/theory correct or am I missing something here?
I have a 2003 f250 and I am unable to rotate the hubs from automatic. I have removed them and while I had them apart, I was still unable to rotate the selector. It wouldn't turn even with a crescent wrench putting pressure on it. I repacked them with grease and reinstalled and they still work when in 4 wheel drive. I am just concerned that when the vacuum does go out, I will not get the hubs to manually lock in.
View 10 RepliesNew to the 4x4 6.0 just bought an 06' King Ranch 130K miles. My other truck is a 95' 7.3 non 4x4 now for sale. So the new to me 06' will not lock the hubs in Auto mode but will in Manual. I have good vacuum down to each wheel hub which is where my question is.
The vac port at either wheel I get 20-30hg however I believe this is only because something is plugged. If I pump up my vac tester to ~25hg right at the wheel port the needle doesn't move, holds vacuum, but does not Auto lock the hub. So I pulled out the Manual/Auto hub by removing the 3 torque screws thinking my vacuum should then go to 0 but it doesn't it stays right at ~25hg.
Before I bought the truck there was some work done to the front end. New ball-joints, Rt tie-rod and perhaps a few other things I haven't ID yet. Could my problem above be an axle seal or something else perhaps installed incorrectly causing the small vac hole going down inside the hub to be covered up or maybe plugged somehow? I believe to replace the ball joints the axle, hub and other parts have to be removed, correct?
I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
View 7 RepliesI was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
I know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
View 11 Replies99.5 7.3. 201,450 miles, Just developed a new noise. Was on interstate, in cruise, 65 mph, started while pulling a hill. Kicked it out of cruise and noise went away. I have found it will repeat just pulling a hill at highway speed.
Now for the noise....it almost sounds like lightly opening the secondaries on a gasser 4 barrel. I don't see anything unusual under the hood.
I've got a 2002 F350 DRW 7.3 truck I'm having a little concern over. It started this summer, when under very heavy pulling I was getting a very noticeable vibration between 20 and 25 mph. I did not think much of it, as it only happened under extreme conditions.
Now I'm getting the vibration all the time, and it's started another band which is 40 to 45 mph. It's much worse if you are very light on the throttle, if you're full throttle it's much harder to notice.
Truck has 154,000 miles.
I have a 2001 F350 with a PCM labeled "PMT2".
The SES light is triggered every time I try and pull fault codes using Torque Pro. It has done this since I installed Torque Pro many months ago. Same thing happens in another local member's (2000) truck, although I don't know his PCM version.
I'm very comfortable with the Torque Pro settings that have been detailed in other Torque Pro threads. I have been careful to choose conservative settings, including trying debug mode. I have uninstalled and reinstalled Torque Pro to see if that solves the problem - which it does not.
Question: "PMT2" PCM been able to pull fault codes using Torque Pro without tripping the SES light?
I realize another variable may be my OBD2 Bluetooth device. As an aside, I have removed the AIH and would expect to see a fault code but Torque Pro reports no fault codes.
So I'm getting ready to pull my engine to redo my timing cover.. my engine has over 320000 miles on it and it runs strong, dyno'd 402 hp at the wheels recently.. I was considering dropping a reman in since im pulling the engine anyway... I heard you can test for blow by buy sitting your oil cap over the spout and seeing if the cap blows off.. well the engine tilts downward in the back so the cap just slides off but in the dark when i shine a flashlight you can see the fumes just billowing out... how do i know if this is too much... what else can i do EASILY to see if my engine has issues before i start taring it down?
View 10 RepliesI just got my new up pipes put on as well as a 38R and pulling a hill hard my truck will hit about 22 psi then drop off slowly I have an electronic boost fooler wich has been on the truck since new pretty much but I don't get a CEL at all is this what I should be getting and I was on the 80hp tune? I ordered new boots and plenum inserts they just haven't got here yet. I know I had a leak before on my old up pipes because they rattled every now and then and I could see exhaust coming out of them when it was cold out but I could hit about the same 22 boost with my old setup. So pretty much nothing changed boost wise except it gets up to boost faster now. I would say it's defueling but I was always told the CEL would come on if that was the case.
View 13 RepliesI have posted a pic of a smoke issue I am having while pulling.
I just pulled a 10,000 lb trailer up a few 7% grades at 8-10,000 ft and the best I could do was 40-45 mph at 6mpg. Every hill would set a P1211 and when the truck downshifted to 3rd the smoke would go away for the most part.
Truck is 100% stock and pulls the same as my F350 with 3.73 gears but smokes a lot more.
The smoke is kind of annoying and performance seems sluggish especially given the 4.88 gearing. Where to start?
Has new ipr, hpop, icp, fuel filter, air filter, fresh 5w40 mobil 1.
Resealed HPOP, reinstalled, started right up, ran for good half hr, shut it down, started it next day, ran for 15 min. Revved it up, n all that, good to go, took it for a spin around block, died as pulling into driveway. At crank Dashcmd shows 200 psi on HPOP. I'm double checking the gear bolt right now. When I installed the pump I seated the gear by hand n torqued bolt to spec, so idk...
View 3 RepliesI have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?