Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 4X4 Light Won't Go Off On Dash
Feb 4, 2016
My yellow 4X4 indicator light on the dash won't turn off for several days after engaging the 4 wheel drive. I have a manual transfer case not the ESOF system, I am certain the 4X4 is disengaged, but the light stays on, so something is sticking. It will usually take several days for the light to go off. I have had to engage my 4X4 system a bunch the last 10 days and had to engage it where I park at my office yesterday due to a huge mound of snow right on the edge of my parking space, man the guy who plows my lot sucks..oh wait, that's me.. so it will be a while before the light goes out on it's own right now. What needs to be sprayed, lubed, tapped with a hammer, replaced?
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Ok so i have an 02 F350 7.3 with 89k on it ... Ive had the truck about 2 years now and ever since i bought it the ABS light has been on. So finally i got to scanning it and codes popped up for the front speed sensors and the rear speed sensor. So i went ahead and just put all new MOOG hub assemblies in the truck which come with the speed sensor already in the them and i also replaced the rear speed sensor, which was difficult!!! Becuase the bolt was seized and i ended up have to drill and tap a new one and even then the sensor seats in the hole in the diff but doesn't seat flush with the housing if you really tighten it down, and it leaked a little fluid at first but i ended up loosening up the bolt a little to make it seat better and then i put silicone around the bottom of the sensor and it stopped leaking... Anyway I've fixed both the code issues and cleared them, BUT, the rear speed sensor code pops back up immediately after clearing it and the ABS light on my dash stays lit .... Idk what to do at this point because I've fixed everything and it still pops the code for the rear sensor, I just want the Light on my dash to go off thats all ! ...
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I had my dash apart to install a radio. Didn't really mess with e-brake. Got it all put back together and light on dash is on. Where should I start to fix this? Is the switch with two wires hooked to the e-brake the only way the light can come on? I have worked it manually with no luck.
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A friend with a 2003 came to me Thursday. He has a dash light on that is an image of an engine. Sitting in the drivers seat, it is to his left. I do not recall seeing this image in my 2001. What might his problem be?
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I have a 2002 7.3 4x4 truck. The 4x4 will not engage, the lights on the dash don't even light up. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the fuse box and gem module. (800.00 to fix). They said the windshield leaked and shorted then out, so I needed to be replaced? I have replaced the windshield and fixed the leak, my question is the fuse box and gem a plug and play and do different years work?
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I have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
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I have a 2001 F250 Crew Cab with Powerstroke. The dash lights are starting to go out one at a time. How do I get to and replace the bulbs?
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I was to leave tomorrow for a trip with three horses. Last night when I parked my truck the dome light went on and off and there was a noise (like a relay opening and closing?) coming from the area. (I have been having issues with the turn signal getting "tired". At times they would only come on solid then other times try would quit after sitting at a long light.)
Checked my manual for fuses to this issue and I removed the fuse in the spot indicated for the "dome and courtesy lights", number 14. Actually I had removed spot number 15 (5amp). This ended the noise. Drove the truck after and all seemed in order, cruise control, turn signals, interior lights! This was the incorrect fuse according to the book! This event occurred with the ignition in the OFF position. Not wanting to start my trip before I get this in order.
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I was driving today and all of the sudden the dash went dark. No odometer, power windows, radio nothing. As soon as I touched the brakes it went dead. Wouldn't restart and all I could hear was a constant buzzing coming from the fuse panel by my knee. Let it sit for five or ten minutes then it would fire up and run good then do it all over again. The second time the truck had no power. I put a jump pack on it and fired right back up. After the the third time I called a toe truck. I'm guessing it is a electrical/charging issue.
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I want to remove my whole dash to paint it but i cant figure out what is holding it in,i removed all the black screws from one side to the other the screws under the tabs by the windshield and it still feels like its being held in somewhere underneath?
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I opened the panel to plug in my new clock spring and found some cut wires hanging down. I don't have a wire schematic to try and look them up. It's not a trailer controller that's plugged in.
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My truck gave me the p1211 code today. I'm Trying to use dash command to get more info. What should I be monitoring and how do I do it? I'm not familiar with these apps at all?
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2002 - 7.3 lariat, my a/c stays on max because of the recirculating effect. When I get in the next morning during summer of course, my dash vents take a few seconds to begin, default defrost till that time passes. Sure I know about leaks and redone all that to make my vacuum hubs work correctly. It didn't begin till later not right after that overhaul.
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I have had a 2000 f250 crew cab for little over a year now. Two previous times, after heavy rains, the cabin light would blink on and i would get a buzzing sound under the dash. I would solve the annoying buzzing sound by opening and closing the door. After a few times, it would work, but my clock and radio could go on without the key in the on position. The next time i used it, no problems... so i put that worry in the back of my mind.
This morning it rained really heavy, sideways type of rain. I opened the door and noticed a small puddle on the vinyl floors right where my left foot goes. OH,oh i thought, but the truck turned over and ran like normal. I picked up a heavy load of hickory in the bed and hopped back in and noticed my speedometer jumping from 0- 30 when I was going about 35. The OD light was blinking, but the transmission shifted normally. I got up to about 1700 rpm and the speedo was barely jumping at 53-55. I make another stop to unload the wood and go back home and i get an intermittent buzzing sound on the way home and no speedo. OD light would start blinking before i hit 2nd gear. I also noticed the odometer not working (speedo related, right?)
I got home and took the fuse relay cover off and found that if I would remove the #1 relay "plug" (black square box 5 prongs) that dreaded buzzing sound would go away, checked it out , plugged it back in, buzzing back on. The clock light still stays on and radio will turn on without the key. I think that water obviously leaked in over something electrical and i have been searching this and other forms for a couple of hours. I am within a couple of weeks of saving up enough to buy the gauges, exhaust and possible DP Tuner and now this happens?
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I have a buddy with a 1999 F250 W/7.3 TD. His property is accessed through a couple miles of hard terrain, so this may wind up being a loose ground or something that pulled loose.Anyway, the truck just all the sudden won't accelerate. It'll crank & idle all day long, but when you hit the gas.....nothing happens. I realize the diesel doesn't have an accelerator cable, as it is drive by wire. First thought was the APP sensor(accelerator), but most of the dash indicator, O/D, etc. lights are inop too.
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So I just bought a E99 f350 lariat. I wrecked the truck on the test drive and felt like the right this to do was to buy it. Finally have everything fixed and replaced on the truck and have run into other issues now.
While flushing the coolant system I started noticing that the starter was engaging randomly. After doing some research I found out it could be the GEM under the dash. Looked under the dash and I could here a sizzling sound and seen "smoke" /water vapor something coming off the GEM. And there is water coming through from the window/cab lights.
So. All the post I seen where from like 6 - 10 years ago. Where is the best place to buy a GEM? Will having the window replaced take care of the leaking issues on the window? What's the best after market cab lights? Cause I think they are leaking too.
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I was driving from my house the other day when the engine suddenly cut out and the dash went blank. there was no warning, it was like someone pulled the plug.
-When I turn the key to the first position (Acc) all the accessories work as normal. the lights, radio, windows, ect all work like normal.
-When I turn the key to the second position (run) nothing changes. no gauges, no dash lights, warning lights, and no (wait to start) squiggly line. only thing I hear is the high pressure pump on the engine cycle.
In the third position (start) the truck will turn over but will not start.
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The floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
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When I position the switch into 4x4 High or 4x4 Low the dash lights do not come on. Also, I have a vacuum leak at both hubs.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ESOF solenoid (or whatever it's called, the box on the fender where the vacuum lines originate) and I don't have any leaks in the lines. I put the Mighty Vac straight to the back of the hubs and I definitely have leaks at both hubs.
So, why am I not getting the light on the dash, and why do I have leaks at the hubs? FWIW, I replaced both wheel hub assemblies in March, and everything worked fine at that time. I'm hoping the yellow o-rings are still good. Is there a chance I lost torque on the four bolts behind the hubs causing a failed seal? Is there a seal on the outside of the hubs that could've failed?
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I picked up a 1999 F-250 Super Duty with the extended cab (not the full crew cab), and have been working on restoring, upgrading, and improving it. It is in great mechanical shape, but needed cosmetic work, replacement of the mirrors and some lenses, and updating to modern tech. I've got all the key wiring in place to install a new in-dash PC head unit with backup camera and a new sub and amp to improve the audio. The problem I'm working on right now is that the head unit is a bit too deep for the double-din slot in the dash.
I could let it stick out 1.5-2" or so and trim it out, but to be honest, I'm not keen on that at all. I think it looks terrible, and I've gone to a ton of trouble already for a nice clean, sleek install and would like to keep it that way.
I've also looked and whether the screen might be divorced from the main body, or the chassis shortened, but neither of those is going to work.
I've considered that there may be someone who makes custom dashes that stick out further for situations like this, effectively deepening the stereo pocket by adding space at the front. If there is though, I can't find them.
Finally, and what seems the most likely, is that I would need to modify/reroute the air duct, and notch out the steel tube at the back of the cavity, to gain an extra 2-3" of depth.
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My truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
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