Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 4WD Does Not Work / No Vacuum Leak Signs
Apr 12, 2015
In the past, I've had the common issues of vacuum leaks causing issues as evident from the defrost/ac and then finding busted vacuum lines. Changed out and everything fine for a few years. Now, i dont have 4wd but i dont have the tell tale vacuum leak signs. Also, even if i manually engage the hubs, still no 4wd.
I try to listen for the transfer case to engage when i switch from 2wd to 4wd, I think I hear it engaging, but to be honest the 7.3 makes so much racket Im not positive that Im hearing it, or at least not hearing it the way I "think" that i heard it in the past. I seem to recall a distinctive clunk when engaging, now its barely audible if at all. Now when I switch to 4-Low, there is the distinctive sound, and it does goes into low drive, just that its only 2wd-low, still no front wheel action.
I have never had any issues before other than the vacuum leaks, have never had reason to dig into the transfer case for any reason. The only time it has ever been touched was last summer when i had the BTS installed and all they did was remove and replace.
Do I finally need to either rebuild or replace my hubs? Is it possible not to have 4wd even with hubs manually engaged? Or is there an issue with the t-case? Or is there something else going on? I have access to a lift to attempt "driving" while all wheels off the ground, its just not mine and its a tight fit and a pain to get my truck on it.
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How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.
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Time to replace the aging vacuum lines to the 4wd and probably anywhere I can find the old rubber stuff.
What is the size of the lines and are they mostly the same?
I'd like to order a roll so I can make ones like the front hubs longer, stuff like that.
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I am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
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My vacuum pump I noticed is running constantly and also my vents are stuck on defrost.
I narrowed it down by taking off the lines going from the tank to the 4x4 solenoid and the tank to the HVAC line. If I plug both lines I get pressure to both but it still won't shut the pump off. Why won't the pump shut off? Leaky tank?
If I plug the red line back into the solenoid I cannot get pressure to come out of the HVAC line. (Switch in cab set in 2wd)
I can make the pump shut off by plugging the main inlet to the pump.
I took the tank out and can't find any cracks or leaks. Could something inside the tank be broke?
Also why can't I get pressure when the red line is plugged into the selinoid?
I can't figure it out. Almost seems like the 4x4 solenoid and the tank are both the problem.
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My 99 Subaru Legacy Outback has an issue w/ the air/vent/defroster selections. The lights sometimes don't lite up and when that happens, the selection doesn't work. It sounds like the fan is working but the air is not coming out. If it's a vacuum leak, can I fix it by finding a leaky hose or is it an involved process?
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I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
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I think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
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My 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
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I found out by accident that my vacuum pump is now running all the time. It's not the gray line to the heater valve and it's not the vacuum canister as I already checked the easy stuff. I need some direction where to start looking under the dash as I have never been under that part of my truck. Any common issues or where to look?
More information: The pump only runs all the time when the HVAC control is set to OFF or MAX AC.
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Haven't found any other useful info on this, but local dealer says that's where my truck is leaking oil from, and since it's considered brakes not powertrain the repair won't be covered under warranty ...
Backstory goes : dropped my truck off at local dealer Thursday to repair an oil leak from near front main seal area of the engine discovered while inspecting to initiate a bumper-to-bumper warranty through Ford ESP- their platinum warranty. I figured with all the electronic widgets and non-powertrain stuffs on this beast I wouldn't mind paying for 3yrs/36k miles of trouble-free motoring, y'know?
Apparently it's the O-ring on the brake vacuum pump that's allowing engine oil to leak. I can't even find this thing, just looking for some further explanation. I'm keeping an open mind so far, I don't suspect the dealer's just trying to get one over on me, just trying to be good and educated before I go plunk down for the repair.
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I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
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I have a 99 f350 and my a/c does not work at idle at highway rpm it blows cold. but once i let it sit and idle even on 1300rpm high idle it will now blow cold. it blows hot untill i rev it up aroung 2000rpm or drive down the road. I have charged the a/c system it has the proper about of refidgerant in it compressor gap is correct. Is it supposed to be like this? If not what are some things to check?
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I have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
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I want to put 305-75-20 on my stock f250 4x4 will they work?
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I have a 99 f350 and I can't get my truck to kick up the idle when it's cold out. There have been mornings in the negatives and still nothing. I replaced my egr tube and cleaned the exhaust pressure sensor. My exhaust back pressure valve opens and shuts while driving at slow speeds but not while at idle, but I don't know if that's related. I replaced the oil temp sensor with a ford motorcraft one. And I plugged my intake air temperature sensor into a buddy's truck with the same motor and his truck still idled up no problem.
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This was briefly discussed as part of another thread. It appears that I have a boost leak when I hit roughly 24.5 psi. The leak seems to stay for a few minutes after showing itself, but then I'm able to produce boosts up to 24.5 again. For example, on my 20-mile/30-minute drive to work, I can make this leak "appear" four or five times, maybe more if I try. Does this self-healing leak ring a bell? I haven't done a boost leak test yet, but I'm leaning towards the RTV sealant at the OEM plenums due to the self-healing attribute.
To add a little info to this thread, I recently installed an S&B intake, 4" exhaust, bellowed up-pipes, RR billet wheel, RR CAC intercooler boot kit with new clamps, RDP reinforcing plenum inserts, AIH delete plug, and I removed the wastegate solenoid along with the red and green tubes. I don't have any gauges, but I recently began monitoring the boost using FORScan. Before all of this, I don't think I was producing enough boost to cause this leak, and I had no way to monitor for this leak.
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Brothers of fte. I reach out. Tonight it appears I had a fuel bomb under the hood.
I've been chasing a fuel leak. Replaced fuel drain orings but one screw seemed to not snug up. Also the plastic was so brittle I couldn't replace the inner oring. Installed new valve worked great. A week later noticed new slow drips. Replaced fuel filter. Again good for two weeks.
Tonight pulled into the driveway hopped out immediately smelled diesel. Steaming from under hood. Popped the hood and everything was wet. Moved her to the street and it clattered like I was running out of fuel. Still half a tank though. Hosed of the drive. Popped hood again fired it up easily. Started fine. No noticeable leak. But everything is wet from fuel. Insulation on hood was saturated. When I open the hood fuel ran out of the insulation into the air intake. Batteries were wet!
Alright what gives? Do I have to be under load to see this leak?
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I've developed a large oil leak in the valley. My guess is the EBPV. What's it take to fix the leak if I DONT remove the valve?
There's a good chance I'll just take it to my works fleet dept and tell them to fix it.
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Do I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
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I just noticed a small leak (red PS fluid) coming from the rear of my hydroboost in the truck (while working on my shift tube replacement this past weekend). The carpet is not wet, but there is a drip hanging on the rear end of the HB waiting to start leaking itself on the carpet. Also, there appear to be no issues with either braking or steering -- all is smooth, firm, steady, and quiet.
I have nearly 290K miles on the truck, replaced the Master Cylinder probably 8 years ago at roughly 150K miles. I no longer spend nearly as much time on the road as I used to (probably 8K miles per year now compared to a previous eight-year long run at 18-20K miles per year.
Questions.
1) Should I go ahead and replace the HB before it gets worse (I don't know how fast the fade when they start this process)?
2) If I replace the HB, should I go ahead and proactively replace the MC along with it since I'll have the whole system wide open?
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