Problems with my 2001 F250 4r100 transmission. Transmission will only shift to 2nd gear when throttle is feathered at @2500 rpm. All other gears shift perfectly. This problem is consistent.
View 10 RepliesI have a 4r100 on in a 99 7.3 4x4. The shifting problem I have appears to be intermittant. it seems loose after warm up especially at the 4th shift overdrive and passing gear. possibly due to low presures ? sometimes (lately more often than not) hunts back and forth between 4th and o.d when passing or hill climbing. Under normal driving it shifts somewhat firm with 4th being an exeption.I have changed my crank position sensor filters and fluids which had turned dark and improved slightly. When I pulled the pan and replaced the filter the pan was spotless. No residue or signs of plates or debris. There is about 100,000 miles on the tranny and 350,000 on the truck. Questions: Is there a tcm for this transmission and if so could it cause these problems? I'm considering a purchase of an unlocked 1705 superchip to change the shifting but unsure if this will work for my issues...
View 14 RepliesI bought it 4 years ago with 205K, swapped trans fluid.. 10k miles later (I don't drive it a lot ). I am throwing the code P0750 Shift A malfunction.. i figured id swap the solenoid pack since I am pretty handy and it was affordable.. but it didn't seem to do the trick.. it drove around the block good for 5 minutes before it started shifting weird and throwing a code again.. almost seems to be slipping... I still have to check fluid level again and scan the code again but any suggestions? I have an apt to go to the tranny shop this week and would like to avoid the big bucks if possible.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3 with 230K miles, around 15,000 miles ago I replaced the transmission with a rebuilt 4R100, lately I have noticed a leak towards the back end where the transmission and the transfer case connects. Some of the bolts on the bottom of the pan have ATF on them, some others however do not. I have had to add a quart of ATF in the past couple of days in order for it to engage into drive when going from Park to Drive. I have to rev it before it actually kicks in. I'm hoping the leak is just being caused by a gasket either in the pan or connecting the trans to the transfer case..
View 7 Repliesmy parents have a f350 which now has no reverse. it has a reman sticker on it, 230k on the truck but no idea on mileage on the tranny. shifts 1st through 4th fine, no slip. Tc lockup works just fine. No codes found with my solus scanner. When shifted in reverse it will move back about 2 ft if revved above 2k and then nothing. Am I looking a trans rebuild or is there something I can check and repair with in it the truck?
View 4 RepliesI have the 4r100 transmission how do I bypass the safety switch? Also what are your thoughts on starting the engine with the transmission out? I know to bolt the spacer plate to the engine.
View 7 RepliesI noticed my '99 started getting difficult to get in gear & shift, within a coupe of days the peddle was barely off the floor before it would engage. A day later it started 'creeping' if started while in gear. Replaced the master/slave cylinders with no change.
Is a clutch replacement the next step? Just thought I would ask before throwing money at it, since the only other times I've had clutch issues there was slipping or it just plain exploded.
I need to replace the cable on my gear shift indicator. Of course you can't just replace the cable. I have even looked on you tube and not found anything. I don't know if maybe I am using the wrong search terms or not.
View 2 Repliesi bought a f250, i rebuilt the 7.3 after installing it the transmission isn't shifting correctly. Reverse perfect, 1st and shifts to 2nd great. wont go into 3rd. i replaced the 2 sensors on the transmission, i replaces the sensor on the 3rd member. the speedometer works but not correctly, i can unplug the sensor on the front of transmission and it shifts into 3rd. but when i plug it back it doesn't. no codes. could it be the ecm?
View 10 RepliesThe other day I was driving i was driving down the road when suddenly my truck wouldn't shift out of first gear, then the truck died and the motor wont turn over either. Acts like it is locked up. Its an 01 with v10 and 4r100.
View 6 RepliesInstalled rebuilt transmission 1 month ago. Have noticed reverse has started to go away. Feels like it is slipping or tires are losing traction with a lot of vibration in the steering wheel.(tires are not slipping that's just the way it feels).. Does it worse when trans is up to temp. I suspect feed bolts but want opinions.(Mark K.) All forward gears seem fine with no issues. I have never been under the pan deep enough to access the feed bolts.
View 3 RepliesIt's happened to me the last 3 times I've taken my truck out and drove through some deep snow. I have a hard time shifting the transmission from drive to park. The snow must get packed up under the truck near the shift linkages.
View 14 RepliesI have already logged 6K miles on her, crazy, but it's my job. I have pulled 5 maybe 6 trailers (form trailers, about 15K pounds loaded, this time of year). Loaded or unloaded, when I push the throttle in 2nd, 3rd gear, I feel a shudder, like transmission shudder.I know this thing throws down 800 ft. lbs. of torque, should I not be pushing it so hard? Or, what am I feeling?
View 14 RepliesWell stock trans went two weeks ago so warranty company had another stock one put it (4r100). Finally got the truck today and I noticed my overdrive was flashing. I have no issues though shifts fine speedo works Rpms are normal I checked fuse 19 under the dash that's fine so I'm lost
If I turn the key on I can use the button like normal but once I drive it just flashes. It works but flashes .
Driving along today my trans started doing some weird stuff. It lost all gears. Forward and reverse. If I turned the truck off and let it sit a while it would go again for awhile then loose drive again. When I got home I checked fluid level and did KOEO o/d off and back on. I drove it around the block and it seemed ok, so I went on my way. After about 20 min I noticed the OD light flashing. I checked codes and It had P1754-ccs.
View 14 RepliesI have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
Took a 2 hour trip got of the interstate came to a stop light and the OD light starting blinking cut the truck off at the light fired it back up shifted in every gear like normal drove a little ways stopped at a light and OD started blinking again cut truck off back on light. Went away shifted great threw all the gears.
View 6 RepliesI have an early 1999 Ford F350 4x4 7.3. I purchased it used about a year ago. The trans was replaced with an ATS 4R100 and a billet torque converter. I have the paperwork for it to confirm it along with the mileage when it was installed. It currently has about 35k on the new trans.
Several months ago the trans heated up to about 200 degrees on my trans temp gauge that was already installed when I purchased it. Not a huge deal and after pulled over and high idling it off I went and no problems.
About a month ago I was towing my fifth wheel when I noticed the temp rising on a level grade. I also noticed the OD light flashing. I made it home and when I went to drive it the next day light was not flashing and it shifted and drove like normal without the trailer.
I towed the trailer again and same thing, OD light flashing and started heating up. I changed all the fluid and flushed it based on the trans flush procedure I got in this forum and replaced with an OEM trans filter. Towed the next day and everything was good. Temp was good and no OD light flashing but I lost 4th gear. All other gears shifted fine, no slipping, just won't go into 4th.
On my way back home the OD light started flashing again and instantly the heat started rising on the trans again. I was finally able to get it into 4th if I let off a little, but as soon as the OD light started flashing I lost it again.
I have a friend of a friend who works for Ford who offered to come over to hook his scanner up. When he hooked it up there was no stored codes from the OD light which we both thought was odd. Took it for a test drive and the OD light started flashing so we could get some readings. He said it showed an error shifting from 1 to 2 and another error when shifting from 3 to 4. I unfortunately forgot to ask him for the specific codes. He tried to read the torque converter info but said my truck was to old and the PID was not supported to read that info.
He said it appeared it was mechanical but without some type of break out box where he can physically shift the gears he couldn't say for sure if it was mechanical or electrical. He did not seem to interested in doing that test for me as he rebuilds trans on the side and said he could rebuild it for me.
It seems my overheating takes place when the OD light starts flashing. It still drives fine and shifts smooth with no issues with or without the OD light flashing. 4th gear usually doesn't work but on a rare occasion it will go into 4th fine which makes me believe it may be electrical.
I am new to diesels but have learned a lot about my 7.3 lately. I recently installed injectors, up pipes, hutch mod, and several other little things so I can get things done myself but am just a DIY'er who can follow good directions. I know very little to nothing about transmissions though.
While working on another issue I did notice there is a large wiring harness that connects up on the driver side of the trans. I unplugged it and was checking the wires and after removing the dirt and crud on it you could see the outside wire sheathing had deteriorated exposing the copper. I bought some liquid electrical tape and sealed everything up. I did look for a replacement wire harness at the time and the one I ordered was very similar but the plug was different so that is why I used the liquid tape at the time. I did not seem to have a problem at the time after fixing it but wanted to mention it here in case that may be an issue.
I also thought swapping out the solenoid pack may fix it. I did not want to drop the trans and send it for a rebuild if I did not need to. I know there are some other sensors associated with the trans like the TSS I think but don't know if they are even related to my issue.
I tried getting the codes from the guy but he does not have them and I can't get him back out. I have an OBDlink device connected to Torque on my phone but I couldn't get it to read trans codes. Could be user error.
I have a 2001 3/4 pickup. Sometimes the over drive light flashes. When it flashes it shifts really hard and sometimes it won't shift into 4th until I mash the overdrive button. Sometimes the light doesn't flash at all and it doesn't have any trouble shifting at all. Is it a solenoid? Or wiring issues?
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2002 F250 7.3 4x4 auto. It had a TS 6 position tuner installed. In stock mode, I got about 11 mpg. I wasn't too impressed. I found that when I left it in 75hp mode, my mileage went up to 21. I drive easy and try to keep shifts at or below 2,000 rpm. The problem is that, when in any position other than stock, my transmission shifts HARD.
My question is: what's going on here? Does the TS change the transmission shifts? Or is the extra bump in power enough to stress the tranny? Based on the factory gauge, the transmission is not running hot. The fluid is nice and pink with no odors or metal shavings. I'd hate to prematurely kill my transmission, but nearly doubling my fuel mileage is hard to pass up.
Short version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...