Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2015 F250 - OBD Monitors Won't Working?
May 20, 2013
I have a 2015 F-250 with the bare essentials. It's built like a work truck but we use it as our everyday vehicle traveling around in Detroit.
That being said, there's a draft down by our legs that we've noticed for some time, but now it's really something I feel could use addressing because it just leaks in cold quite a bit. The draft feels like it's coming in from the front engine compartment/dashboard area.
Is what I'm experiencing common with this kind of truck and is there a fix, or way to stop that draft coming in? I feel this was just one of those things that wasn't really given much consideration as a work truck, similar to the fact there's no cabin air filter, but I'd really like to know if there's a way to somehow reduce the amount of air into the cabin compartment.
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I have a 01 f-250 7.3 6 speed. I bought the truck a few days ago and the 4x4 wasn't working the dealer replaced the transfer case motor. I have another 01 f-250 that i have been switching parts out of to see if that makes a differences and found nothing to work. Ive switched the switch on the dash out and nothing. Ive switched the two relays under the hood and nothing. I have also checked all fuses. and the connectors on the transfer case.
So I finally popped the covers off the two relays and squeezed them with my fingers and boom transfer case locked into 4lo and then i can squeezed the other and boom back in 2h! So now I'm lost, I know the wiring from the relays to the transfer case is good and the switch is good and relays are good so I'm at a loss.. Also cruise control isn't working idk if that could be related i don't think it is but idk?
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I have 2002 F250 7.3 Auto, I recently tried to put my truck in to 4 wheel drive and it is not working. It has WARN manual locking hubs, which I locked. Dash indicator came on and I can hear it click on the transfer case. Yet it isn't driving the front tires. It shouldn't be a vacuum issue considering it had been converted to manual hubs should it?
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I installed a new trailer wiring harness onto the back of my 2002 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 diesel engine. Unfortunately, I was 180 degrees off on my wiring. When I hooked up to the camper I blew Fuse #115 (Trailer Tow Battery Charge) as it connected directly to the camper ground wire. I replaced the 20amp fuse and all other fuses were good. Currently, I have all the truck wires to the harness isolated and have power to all of them except for the parking lights. All the lights on the truck work fine.
My truck has a interior fuse panel on the driver's side as well as two small black boxes under the hood, near the brake booster. The under-hood boxes had only relays in them. Two relays in one black box, three in the other. The box with three relays had trailer left turn and right turn relays. which worked fine. The third in that box, apparently, is for the A/C clutch, controlled by fuse #10. The other black box (with two relays), apparently, are for 4WD Shift on the fly, controlled by fuse #111. So, no relay for the parking lights.
Next, I pulled the fuse panel out a little and checked continuity from the end of the parking light wire (brown with white stripe) at the back of the truck to the back of the fuse box and found that it was a good wire with no breaks or shorts to ground, however no voltage is showing at the parking light wire when I turn on the parking lights. The harness at the back of the fuse box has several wires going into it. The parking light wire (brown with white stripe) is in the same harness as the back-up light wire (black with green stripe) and the back-up light does have voltage, when I put it in reverse.
I'm not sure what happens inside of the fuse box, i.e., how does one fuse run a few wires... is there some kind of circuit board? I know the easy way would be to run a vampire connector from the truck parking lights, or maybe the license plate light to power the trailer lights, however, I'm just not built that way.
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I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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I will start with what I have done to my truck. Hutch and harpoon mod, fuel pump, new orings on fuel lines, fuel filter, air box, 4" exhaust. My issue only happens when my engine is warmed up and I put it under a load(driving up a long hill or pulling up a long hill). My truck starts to shudder and feels like missing until it looses all power to where it won't even pull itself and will just barely idle. It doesn't die though. I watch the engine oil temp and it seems to be around 195-200 when it occurs. I can turn the truck off and let the oil temp cool to 150-160 and then start the truck up it will miss for a second then clear up. I will start driving again and it seems fine until the oil temp gets up and start putting it under a load. I have read many posts and can't figure out exactly where I need to start. Some of the codes I pulled are P0603, P0470, P0732, P0542 and P1211.
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1999 f250, 280,000 miles. I use Power Service with every tank, oil changes every 3500. Had a few of the injectors changed several years ago after getting bad fuel. Tranny "built" when rebuilt, about 60,000 miles ago.
Truck starts and drives every time, no miss or rough idle, no smoke. Just not as much power. It downshifts sooner and really seems to resent towing my atv trailer. Where do I start ?
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OK . So here's the deal. My 2000 7.3 ford f250 170k miles. Going from phx az to flagstaff az . For some reason I'm hitting about 40 miles per hour with the pedal all the way down going up a decent grade. Seems like something isn't giving the motor power. I'm pulling a 28 ft toy hauler pretty much empty . Under 5800 pounds . What this could be . Also was get pretty close to the red on water temp gauge.
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As I'm cruising once I hit about 50mph I start getting a vibration in the peddles and floor board. It's not real bad but noticeable for sure. When I hit 70mph it's worse and the truck even sounds like it's vibrating. As soon as I let off the peddle and coast everything is golden.. Smooth.. So it seems to be a problem only under power..
A little back story : About a year ago I was getting bad vibration and loosing power. I put it in the shop and the mechanic said the filter or screen in the gas tank was clogged so he cleaned it. I went to Korea for a year so the truck sat in government storage for a year. When I got it back in March I put in back in the shop to have the front passenger side hub replaced.
I don't know if any of that has to do with the vibration I'm getting now.
Truck
2003 F250 ext cab
7.3l
179k miles
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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I've got a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3. The other day I was driving down the road and it lost power and my foot almost went to the floor. I was at the bottom of a hill when it did this and I was running 60 mph. By the time I got to the top I was running 20 mph and had the truck to the floor. When I was driving it home it was tacking around 1800 rpm and my egts were only at 125 degrees. I know I'm not getting fuel. I thought it could be the fuel filter so I changed it. Still no luck. It'll start back up but it dies if I take my foot off the accelerator. It shook terrible when I was driving it home too. Is it injectors, uvch, hpop, or something else?
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
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I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
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So long story short I have a 99 f250 xl, 7.3 130k. Overall good truck but has no options, never had AC but would like to add it. I have seen the kits on bought4less. So I'm thinking all the factory parts should be bolt on, since the holes should be all there, and since most of the wiring should be there. I just need to collect all the parts. Also one question I have is, what goes through the firewall. Is it just the lines, or how does the ac get to the vents? Dumb question but don't get that part of it.
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