Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2003 - Running Rough / 2 Cylinders Not Working Correctly
Mar 16, 2017
I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
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I had an HPOP line burst and soak the engine compartment with oil. I replaced the line and degreased the engine and rinsed it off. I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes or so before driving it. On the way home right after a shift it started chugging and running terribly. The check engine light was on as well. I limped it the mile or so home and shut it off. I restarted it and it runs just fine. I checked the DTC's with Forscan and there were a bunch of things that were mostly related to the HPOP and the MAT sensor that was shredded when the line blew. I left the hood open to dry out today and I'm hoping it is just some water in a connector. Does that sound plausible?
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I bought a 99 7.3 been in the trees for a few years pulled it home and now trying to get it running. Did a service new filters and oil fuel too. I can get it to start and will run but runs very rough and if you put it in drive cant pull its own self. I don't have a check eng light on. And found out my scanner is a pos lol. it will hooked up and then try to pull codes and loses it connection. But that's the scanner will not work on my other 7.3 as well.
I am making high pressure oil checked off the rail with gauge and it will build up to 2000 psi when I rev it. but missing like crazy. I swaped the pcm and idm out of my running 7.3 and it didn't change a thing. I have checked the pass though and they are fine. pulled drivers side valve cover off and no oil leaks when running and rockers are fine. new ipr valve as well too. I know I need to get a scanner to talk to this thing better.
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I have a 2001 ford 7.3l powerstroke diesel. When I first noticed the problem I was towing a trailer going up a grade and got into the throttle almost to the floor and noticed a loss of power and the service engine soon light flashing extremely rapidly a few times and never came back on. I made it home, still lacking power but not running rough. I drove the truck to work the next day and the truck was running rougher and loosing power. It ran great through lower RPM's but seemed to trip as soon as you gave it over half throttle. eventually the truck wouldn't run right at all and lacked complete power. It idled rough as well. My mechanic threw the computer on it and it said injector pressure reading too high or too low.
I was told to replace the IPR on the HPOP and I did. (I also replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil). After replacing the IPR it ran great, had full power! then it began to slowly die like it did before until it sounded like it was running off 4 cylinders again. I pulled the ipr out, cleaned it and changed the oil again. It seemed to clear it up for an hour and ran great but then began ran rough again. I also replaced the CPS sensor. I feel like its not getting enough fuel or something, im just wondering if it could be the ICP or the lift pump. There is no check engine light at all. Its just got me stumped because cleaning the IPR clears everything up.... temporarily.
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2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
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Well, I was headed out from work this morning, on my way to fill up as I was a bit below 1/4 tank.
Truck was running good, like normal, until after 5-6 minutes, when it started running rough and had no power. Worried, I pulled off the side of the road. As I did so, it died, and wouldn't start again.
I whipped out my phone, pulled up TorquePro, and ran a code check. Nada. Well, it sounds to me like it's not getting fuel possibly, so I figure the best way to check, is to drain the fuel filter bowl, and crank it some, and check the bowl. No fuel in bowl.
Wifey came to pick me up with the can of diesel I keep for starting my forge (had 3 gal maybe?). Poured it in the tank, cranked it, no start. Still nothing in the bowl.
I'm taking her to work now, so she won't be late, then I'm headed back with a full can of diesel.
If that full can still won't get it, should I keep shuttling diesel cans, or should 8 gal or so be enough to get it back to the fuel pickup level? And if it's not fuel level, what else should I start checking on the side of the road?
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I have had this happen twice now. Starts fine, idles fine, then either sitting or just driving a block or two it starts running very rough, no smoke that I remember seeing, and now no power. Barely makes it up a hill. The first time I thought is was related to the heavy rain the night before. I had the tow truck coming and decided to try it again, this was after a few hours sitting. Ran perfectly. The second time, no wetness/rain, pulled away from the house and in a block or two, same thing ... rough, no smoke, no power. Pulled back into driveway, turned off for a minute, restarted and ran fine. Ran perfect today. What is the best injector cleaner to use in the fuel?
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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I was wondering if fuel injectors throw a code when it goes out. I have a 02 7.3 been running rough when you accelerate bogs down and looses power not sure but sometimes gas light would come on knowing I have gas in it could that be a sign of the sending unite and that's why it runs rough..
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I had been fighting some problems with injectors for several years. I didn't have time to dig into it. I knew what I needed to do, just needed to find time to do it. I honestly thought it was and injector and thought I would have to go to new sticks because I've had so many problems with the remans.
Well I finally had time last week. I pulled the passenger side valve cover and ohmed the injectors. It would be almost impossible to get the leads in the injector while installed the truck. I kept an old valve cover harness, so I cut a pig tail off of it and plugged it into the injectors so I could test. You can see the meter attached to the pigtail in the pic.
To my surprise all four were all right around 2.7 ohms. You need to set your meter so you are getting a reading w a decimal. If you set it to high it will only show a whole number and it is better to have a more accurate reading.
I then plugged the wiring harness back in and tested it from there. The #7 injector gave over 6 ohms. This told me that my wiring harness was bad. I went OE and replaced it. I had a problem w a Dormant valve cover gasket before so didn't want to go that route. After I replaced the gasket and harness all my readings were under 3 ohms. They were all lower than w the old harness.
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So the last couple times I got a car wash the truck started running real rough, sometimes dies, then runs fine after a few minutes. Well, the last car wash I got it did it again, but the issue didn't go away. I checked the injector plugs, cleaned and greased, no change. Validated the bowl is filling with fuel, changed fuel filter, no luck.
Sometimes it will start and idle fine, rev in neutral fine, if you come off throttle abruptly it will fall below normal idle and start stumbling with an SES light and eventually die.
I managed to get it idling good, started logging with TPro (attached) and it was throwing codes P0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve, and P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, as well as P1211, p1249, p1316 listed as 'multiple descriptions'.
I'm assuming this is an electrical issue since it happened after washing the truck, just not sure what sensor would cause all this?
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I have a 99 f-250 with about 250k miles. Truck is completely stock. It recently has developed a problem where when I start it in the mornings it surges at idle, 200 rpm or so. Sometimes it tries to die and did once but started back up. When driving it continues to rev itself up and is jerky. It runs rough and sounds like it could be missing on a cylinder. At other times it runs fine just like normal. Yesterday morning it started with these symptoms so I put in a new ford CPS. It ran great for about 100 miles that afternoon. This morning it started back with the same symptoms. The SES light stayed on longer than normal when I started it, but it went off. I don't have a scanner.
I thought it might be water in the fuel because this started the day after I filled it from my transfer tank. But the water in fuel light has never came on. I put a new fuel filter on it but it made no difference. Have pulled filter three times looking for water but never found a drop. Also pulled several buckets from the bottom of my transfer tank but found no water there either. Where to look next?
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A little background information is that I was towing a large gooseneck trailer about a year ago when half way to the destination the lights quit. Not just the trailer but the truck tail lights, turn signals and everything except the headlights. Well after getting there and unplugging everything it stayed the same. Well on the way home without the trailer the lights began working again. All the truck lights acted as it never happened. No blown fuses or anything.
Well things are are going ok since then but I can never get running lights to any of my 3 trailers to work. Turns and brake lights are fine. What gives? All the fuses are fine and the truck running lights work just fine. One thing I have noticed is that on my horse trailer I have the little led lights on the sides operational... I would have assumed these to be the same as the tail running lights.
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I bought this truck with 200000 miles and its been flawless, its now 900 short of 600000.. I use it to haul everyday.. nothing heavy mostly a car or truck and every once in a while a skid steer. I got 560000 out of my trans, i take it easy. lol
at 350k I installed a Jw valve body drilled pump, tripple disc converter and solenoid pack.. at 560k it went, i pulled it and brought to a guy i trust as much as you guys trust BDS.. Ive had what Ive called a vibration since day one, could be a shudder, could be a shimmy.. what ever.. I brought it back and he says nothing would do that from a trans, so I went through drive shaft, new t case ripped apart rear end and its still there and I have just been dealing with it.. about 2 months ago it started acting up in first. when I pull down to drive I get the normal bump and start to go, it feel like the truck slows, then another bump and it climbs normally with the shudder.
took it back and he said maybe a stuck valve in small VB, so I pulled it and went down there and it was fine, I reinstalled and still does same thing. I then put a pressure gauge on it and it swings as it should sits around 70 psi and will climb, only in first it will climb and fall back to 70 like a switch was flipped, and the rest of the gears bleed off slowly or normally.. He then said it could be the big valve body, so I swapped that one out with another and no real change, maybe its a bit more noticeable.
I am at a loss. Could this be loose feed bolts? Could the shudder that I can feel at most speeds be the 1 gear slipping a tiny bit all the time? I am told that first gear is always on.. this truck has been a dream until this trans issue..
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I have a 7.3 that's running rough. Started it the other day it ran alright but started blowing white smoke. Bought a oil and fuel additive i was going to run through it. Came a few days later, it stated up and was real loud and sounding like it was loping. It blew a good amount of white smoke, but it just smelt like real heavy diesel. Now i can only turn it over and it won't start.
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I have a 01 7.3 crew cab dually and it's had cold start problems since i got it in 09.I have replaced everything i could think of including glow plugs gpr,harness and batteries. Any temp below 40 i have to plug it in . If i cycle it 3 or 4 times it will start but it smokes and runs ruff. My 00 7.3 excursion starts up down to about 10 degrees than i have to plug it in so i know dually is not right.
I have a afe intake,1.5 injectors, driven diesel rr, adrenilin pump,dp tune by gear head. Kinda at wits end don't mind plugging it in in dead of winter but now one night it's 30 next it's50 and i don't have to . Also have fully built trans by level 10 if it matters .I get battery light coming on every now and again. New alt about every year and a half.
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7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?
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E99 Romps on start up and randomly dying. Bought this truck about 3 weeks ago. Previous owner mentioned he had issues with it getting hot and shutting off and not starting. Has new IPR, ICP and pigtail, I just put in a new fuel filter. Has 206k miles on it and is the 4R100.
The past two days after sitting all night I have been cycling the key twice and it hasn't done its romp. Typically when it does I can tap the pedal once and it goes away. This I could deal with but its started to die randomly while driving, never while cruising down the road. Its either just after starting it and rolling slowly or slowing down for a stop or to turn. When it dies, I can put it in neutral and it fires back up no problem. SES light usually comes on for about 10-15 seconds after but goes away.
Replaced the grey CPS that was in it with a dark grey one from RiffRaff Diesel. Got a Edge CTS2 to figure out the problem, the codes Im getting are P1280 and P1247.
The ICP pigtail they replaced they spliced on with butt connectors. I plan on pulling it to check for oil and make sure it does look new and redo the connections with solder then shrink wrap them.
I was told to check the IPR% under full throttle which I did and it never went higher than 36.7
The truck did start running rough around 45-50 mph and I did get a video of the ICP jumping around while cruising down the road.
Then I went through a drive through and the truck kind of hiccuped like it wanted to stall and the ICP went right to 725 PSI and idled up and stayed there until I started to leave.
Truck is pretty much stock, K&N air intake and muffler cut out and straight piped.
Here is a link to the videos I got :
e99 7.3 ICP fluctuation while driving - YouTube
e99 ICP steady at 725 PSI after acting like it wanted to stall. - YouTube
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A bit about my truck : 2001 F250 CC SB 4x4 175k miles
Wicked wheel, 6637 filter, DP tuner, Summit 5" exhaust, pressure regulator somewhere in the boost circuit to fool the computer a bit....
Every few times I drive the truck it will stumble and maybe even stall. The issue feels something like a CPS problem, although I've swapped out a few CPS to see if I by chance had a bad one in the engine as well as a bad one in the glove box. No changes. I was driving home from work one afternoon and it was running particularly bad. I stopped off at a local garage (who doesn't work on diesels and was reluctant to plug in....but did because he's a nice guy).
He plugged in with his snap-on tool and came up with P0603 and P1211. The P0603 seems to be nearly inevitable with a tuner. Check P1211 sounds like it could be an issue with a number of things, but I tried to attack the free and cheap issues first. I dropped my tank and had a look inside. I was hoping to find a squirrel wrapped around the sending unit, but there was a disappointingly small amount of crud. I cleaned it up and put it back in, then changed my fuel filter. No improvements.
So I decided to get with the program and buy AutoEnginuity. Got it. Even did some reading in class and did the initial homework assignment on page 2 or 3. Seems like the best thing to do it hook up, set up some parameters to monitor, and drive around recording until the problem happens. But.........what parameters do I want to monitor? I don't want to overtax the OBDII bus with too many requests such that my data looks like crap.
A few other things............ In the last year I swapped out the valve-cover gaskets & harnesses with an all-in-one molded setup. About a month back I replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube.
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So putting the new extended links on my truck, not sure if they are supposed to be seated flush on both the frame and sway bar itself before tightening them down. This is how they are sitting now --
You can see a little gap between the rubber fitting where the bushing sits and the frame mount. Just wanted to make sure before I torque it down. Its the same on the other side as well. They are sitting flush on the sway bar.
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